[addict1]

Me too! I'm working slowly, trying to avoid all the pitfalls I've seen online; spent the weekend prepping the mould... 400 - 600 - 800 - 1000 - buffing compound. I really don't want it to stick!

[addict1]

Pulled my first box out the mold! Came out pretty sweet for a first attempt; couple of dry spots here and there but easy to fix up.
Lots of learning for the next one...
BTW, box without lid weighs 1.1 kg (L410 X W210 X H300mm, roughly 25L)
I can't believe how strong this stuff is, stood on it with my 80Kg and it barely bows!
Now for some trimming and minor repairs...

[Bilgemaster]

You've got a rather nice texture going on there. Well done, Sir!

[heloego]

Carbon Fiber?

[addict1]

Yup, with a 1mm Corex material.
Thanks Bilgemaster! The weave pattern actually came out better than I thought it would, but I will be spraying them to match the bike (as close as possible, anyway.) Not sure if flashy CF patterns fit with the military bike; I'm thinking of going old school with some leather hinges and straps with buckles, with some form of locking clasp for security.
This project started as an idea for aluminium panniers, then fiber glass, then I found a great deal on CF and thought that would be fun...

Couple more pics with the opening trimmed out (roughly)....

[Bilgemaster]

You gonna mount that electric toilet too, for that ultimate convenience on the road?

[addict1]

Hahahaha... Yup, and the spare fuel tank in the background to extend my range!

[gizzo]

Nice job mate! That'll get the job done. You probably already know this and it's not a criticism of your work, just additional information so I'll throw it out there: If you want to save yourself a ton of time filling sanding and smoothing before painting the parts, consider painting in the mould. Prep the mould as usual with your wax, release agent, PVA or whatever you're using. Spray a few coats of hi build primer directly onto the mould. a light, dry first coat so it just covers the wax, then trowel it on. Doesn't even matter if it runs, they'll be on the inside. Lay up the part. A first layer of 3/4 oz cloth helps keep it nice, then the carbon. When you pop the mould open, the paint sticks to the part, not the mould and you have a ready primed, pinhole free part. Just needs a tidy up along the parting line, tidy up any voids you might have, scuff the primer with grey scotchbrite and you're ready to paint. You can do the colour on the mould too, if you feel like it.

If you can stand to leave the mould closed for a while, you'll find less print through, where the fabric pattern magically shows through the paint. If you pop the part as soon as the resin's set, you'll get more print through than if you leave the mould closed for a week.

You could use a bin liner as a bladder on the inside if you wanted. Stuff the right size bag in there, make up some kind of valve and inflate it, only needs a little bit of pressure. The bladder forces the cloth into the corners, helps eliminate voids and the bag won't stick to the epoxy.

Carbon vs fibreglass: Carbon is great but fibreglass is more flexible and easier to fix. If you drop the bike on the pannier and the carbon fails, it splinters into horrible shards and is a PITA to fix. Glass kind of tears up a bit more and it's easy to push back into shape and fix nicely.

My experience from building and fixing moulded and vac bagged boats and toy model aeroplanes.
All the best
s

[addict1]

Thanks Gizzo! Man, would I like to sit with you with a few beers and a note pad!

It's been a fun project so far with a steep learning curve. Great advice on the paint (a la gel coat finish); I just laid up the second bag yesterday so I guess it'll be sanding for me! The bag idea would have been perfect, I looked at options to clamp the corners to keep them pressed in. I did allow the skin coat to cure a bit on this layup and kept pressing it in to the corners, so I'll see later today how it worked out.

Regarding the properties of the CF; I know it is pretty brittle under impact so I'll see how they do. I have the mold now, so worst case, I may just lay up a glass/CF hybrid at some stage.

[suitcasejefferson]

I will be building in major tolerances (and hoping for the best) with the hard bags. I have a set of soft bags which have been faithful over 5000km but are worn through now. My main reason for going the hard bag route is for security; I found on my last trip that was reluctant to leave the bike to explore (museums, walks, shopping, etc.) I'm hoping that with a moderate level of security I can actually experience the places I visit.

As far as mounting the bike goes, 100% on the "center stand, step through method"; I have to do that anyway with my bag and tent etc. on the back rack.

I love the look of that bike loaded down like that. It has "adventure" written all over it. Totally different thing from a modern BMW GS or KTM.

I won't get on any bike on the centerstand. I weigh 240 pounds, and I don't want to put all that weight plus the bikes weight on the centerstand. I also don't want to put that kind of weight on the footpegs. I always get on with the bike on the sidestand. When I first got the Enfield, I strapped a tailpack to the back portion of the seat (B5) I found it interfered with being able to get my leg over the seat. I didn't want to ruin the clean look with some kind of rack or throw over saddlebags, so I now use a backpack. I use the Enfield only for short trips anyway. Sometimes I ride it all day, but still stay within 100 miles of home. The Enfield is the kind of bike I ride to enjoy my interaction with the machine, rather than traveling. I have traveled more than 2000 miles from home on a Honda Rebel 250. It may be small, but it will run all day long at full throttle (actual speed between 75-80 mph) and it won't break down.

Best of luck with your pannier project.