Nice job mate! That'll get the job done. You probably already know this and it's not a criticism of your work, just additional information so I'll throw it out there: If you want to save yourself a ton of time filling sanding and smoothing before painting the parts, consider painting in the mould. Prep the mould as usual with your wax, release agent, PVA or whatever you're using. Spray a few coats of hi build primer directly onto the mould. a light, dry first coat so it just covers the wax, then trowel it on. Doesn't even matter if it runs, they'll be on the inside. Lay up the part. A first layer of 3/4 oz cloth helps keep it nice, then the carbon. When you pop the mould open, the paint sticks to the part, not the mould and you have a ready primed, pinhole free part. Just needs a tidy up along the parting line, tidy up any voids you might have, scuff the primer with grey scotchbrite and you're ready to paint. You can do the colour on the mould too, if you feel like it.
If you can stand to leave the mould closed for a while, you'll find less print through, where the fabric pattern magically shows through the paint. If you pop the part as soon as the resin's set, you'll get more print through than if you leave the mould closed for a week.
You could use a bin liner as a bladder on the inside if you wanted. Stuff the right size bag in there, make up some kind of valve and inflate it, only needs a little bit of pressure. The bladder forces the cloth into the corners, helps eliminate voids and the bag won't stick to the epoxy.
Carbon vs fibreglass: Carbon is great but fibreglass is more flexible and easier to fix. If you drop the bike on the pannier and the carbon fails, it splinters into horrible shards and is a PITA to fix. Glass kind of tears up a bit more and it's easy to push back into shape and fix nicely.
My experience from building and fixing moulded and vac bagged boats and toy model aeroplanes.
All the best
s