[Timerunner]

   Not trying to open Pandora's Box like I have done before, asking about Oil or Plugs.     
 I am confused about the different avalibility of batteries for my 08 Bullet. After a little research and head scratching the descision was made to come here and ask the experts in the subject. Granted the bike came with an Exide battery, which lasted for several years. Till the time I needed to put the bike in a deep storage condition for a period of time.
Need a new battery for my Bullet. Wanting recommendations for a reasonably priced and dependable battery as I raise my machine from her slumber, to running shape.
 I know you get what you pay for. But reality calls for cautious spending at this time. So please share you experiences.

[Grumpy Gramps]

Hi I done away with the battery box as I fitted an external oil filter in its place and put an RS Components 5amp sealed alarm battery in the left hand tool box

[Tarnand]

[...] and put an RS Components 5amp sealed alarm battery in the left hand tool box

Excellent idea.  I assume it works; how long have you been using this battery? 

Some time ago I purchased a battery carrier and Lucas battery case from H.  Did not install them yet as my ES battery despite being 4 years old is still in excellent shape.  However, your battery is so small there still would be room inside the case for a condenser (battery eliminator).

[Grumpy Gramps]

Tarnand here's a photo after I rewired the bike, had the battery just over a year and working fine.

[Adrian II]

If you're using the electric start, won't you need a 14AH battery rather than the 5AH used by the kick start only models?

A.

[Timerunner]

If you're using the electric start, won't you need a 14AH battery rather than the 5AH used by the kick start only models?

I couldn't get the ES to work half the time on mine when it was new. Such a low compression motor as the 500. Kicker is faster and more reliable for me. I think I was told once the 5AH battery wiil be over  charged if it is used. Any comments on this from former RE Shop people?

[ace.cafe]

No, it won't overcharge the battery, but the regulator might get hot.

[Ice]

 The regulator and rectifier behave no differently when the battery is fully charged regardless of the batteries AH rating.  The regulator- rectifiers are spec'd to match the alternators output which is only a little bit more in the alternators used on factory E/S Bullets than factory K/S only Bullets.

 You can save some weight and space and alter esthetics by going to a smaller battery or keep the current size for more reserve capacity and greater limp home range in case the charging system were to fail. I chose the latter out of personal preference when I quit using and then deleted the E/S in my Bullet.

 Kick starting eliminates the greater strain of discharge/ re charge that E-starting places on a battery thereby extending it's service life if properly cared for.

 Speaking of which, two days a go I replaced the Yuasa made AGM battery in my Bullet after eleven years of service. This is atypical and probably a fluke. About five years is my usual average.

 Removing the E-Start system or at least the sprag is a wise idea. 
Even the one in a million E-start with a perfect sprag of perfect metallurgy, perfect heat treatment, made perfect to spec, installed in perfect spec gears has a finite lifespan. The E-start was problematic in the Bullet, there just is not room in the design envelope to do it right.



 

[Yamahawk]

Coincidentally, I just replaced my AGM Scorpion battery yesterday with a lead acid one from Batteries and Bulbs, $40 and tax. The AGM didn't last but a little over a year, and I keep a battery tender on it almost every time i put it away at night. This isn't my typical life span for AGM, so I figure it was a poor AGM battery to begin with. Normally, in my 'other' bikes, I get several years, with the longest being 5 years in my Yamaha XV920RH. But that is a long lifespan, not usually the case. I got the 10% discount by using the online code, at my local store also. Nice people, bring your old battery for the core!
Charlie

[tooseevee]

       Everything Ice said I go along with. I hate everything to do with the electric start system on my '08 AVL, but I need it for the very first cold start of the day. From then on I use the kick starter.

         Why I write is to mention the OEM Minda switch cluster that has the Start, Kill and Lights Switches. The Starter switch SUX. It pretty quickly builds up an arced area on the contacts and can fool you into thinking your battery is low or even dead.

          I've had mine apart 3 times now to clean the starter contacts as well as I can by scraping them with a tiny, tiny screwdriver that I have.

           The problem is that you can't easily get at the contacts because the return spring is in the way. I haven't attempted to remove the tiny rolled pin which holds the lever and spring in the housing because I'm afraid I might break the whole thing. Removing this pin and the lever is the only way you can clean the contacts properly because the spring is totally in the way. 

             I did an OK cleaning this last time, but I'm tired of having to take that whole cluster apart and back together again and have ordered a whole new switch cluster to have on hand for after the deluge. Plus I've also just ordered a nice little stand alone handlebar starter button that I hope works out. I'm going to just remove the Minda switch from the cluster and install a stand alone start button.

          I also get the feeling that the config of the plastic stops that lever from putting real hard squeezing pressure on the contacts (and the spring itself may be part of the problem) because one time the starter will spin the engine like a Cummins diesel air starter and another time nothing (yes, I know the bat tree is OK). I just do not like that switch at all, Sam I Am.

           Singh, have you dealt with that switch?         

[tooseevee]

Tarnand here's a photo after I rewired the bike, had the battery just over a year and working fine.

           I did similar a few years ago. 10AH. Put it in the right hand case.

            It spins the engine just fine, but it would not stand going around shopping all day or Starbuck's hopping and using the ES all the time. I only use it for the first cold start of the day. When I first did this mod I remember getting 5 starts in a row with no charging in between before it was dead. And I never ride at night so don't worry about drain.

             A 15 or 20 minute ride will charge it back to full after one start. A 5 minute ride to the next Starbuck's will not. Many short trips all morning will lead to a low or dead battery (& burned contacts) and that's the worst thing for a starter and sprag.

             After these pictures I hard wired in a Wicked Smart Genius battery tender which is on all the time the bike is parked.   

[Ice]

     
         Why I write is to mention the OEM Minda switch cluster that has the Start, Kill and Lights Switches. The Starter switch SUX. It pretty quickly builds up an arced area on the contacts and can fool you into thinking your battery is low or even dead.

          I've had mine apart 3 times now to clean the starter contacts as well as I can by scraping them with a tiny, tiny screwdriver that I have.

         

 May I suggest using the E/S switch to triugger a Bosch relay and let the Bosch relay handle triggering the starter solenoid ?   It only takes a whisper of electricity to activate the coil inside The Bosch relay. The switched (load ) contacts are under rated at 30 amps.

[Timerunner]

Thank you all for sharing your information and experiences. I for one appreciate all the help I can get.

[tooseevee]

 May I suggest using the E/S switch to triugger a Bosch relay and let the Bosch relay handle triggering the starter solenoid ?   It only takes a whisper of electricity to activate the coil inside The Bosch relay. The switched (load ) contacts are under rated at 30 amps.

          That's a great idea. I could easily add a relay right at the starter relay inside the left side case.

           Thanks.   

[tooseevee]

 May I suggest using the E/S switch to triugger a Bosch relay and let the Bosch relay handle triggering the starter solenoid ?   It only takes a whisper of electricity to activate the coil inside The Bosch relay. The switched (load ) contacts are under rated at 30 amps.

           Good Friend Ice: Am I correct that I just treat my existing, in-place starter
relay as if it was a horn or a light? Blue/White from starter switch to 86 on the Bosch, existing relay to 87 OTB and run a separate 12V+ to 30/51 OTB? get all my grounds right & goodtogo?

            Sounds simple - I'll start praying now and get a headstart 

[Ice]

 tooseeve my brother, forgive me I'm wiped out right now. I can't recall the pin layout and pin numbers on Bosch's "sugar cube" relays right now.

 Handle bar switch for the " 'lectric foot " tiggers the coil in the Bosch relay which closes the contacts and feeds +12V to the factory starter solenoid/starter relay in the left tool box which closes and feeds juice straight from the battery to Mr. Denso's fine motor up front.                                                                                                             

[tooseevee]

tooseeve my brother, forgive me I'm wiped out right now. I can't recall the pin layout and pin numbers on Bosch's "sugar cube" relays right now.

 Handle bar switch for the " 'lectric foot " triggers the coil in the Bosch relay which closes the contacts and feeds +12V to the factory starter solenoid/starter relay in the left tool box which closes and feeds juice straight from the battery to Mr. Denso's fine motor up front.                                                                                                             

           Yup, that's essentially what I said in my previous, just different words 

            I replaced the crap OEM starter relay a few years ago.     

[Ice]

 You are welcome to mine in case you need a matching pair of door stops   

[tooseevee]

 May I suggest using the E/S switch to triugger a Bosch relay and let the Bosch relay handle triggering the starter solenoid ?   It only takes a whisper of electricity to activate the coil inside The Bosch relay. The switched (load ) contacts are under rated at 30 amps.

           I finally got the Bosch relay wired in. Here are Before and After shots.

            Main Circuit Breaker at the top. Big relay self-splanatory.

            The White connector down on the left is from the Brake Light Switch. The old glass fuse holder down in the corner now holds spare blade type fuses for the ECU/TCI fuse holder which is on the frame under the seat. 

              I should have made the hot wire to the big relay Red, but I didn't think of that 'til later  Best laid plans....... It's tough working on the floor in the Lotus. Tougher getting up 

             

[Yamahawk]

           I finally got the Bosch relay wired in. Here are Before and After shots.

            Main Circuit Breaker at the top. Big relay self-splanatory.

            The White connector down on the left is from the Brake Light Switch. The old glass fuse holder down in the corner now holds spare blade type fuses for the ECU/TCI fuse holder which is on the frame under the seat. 

              I should have made the hot wire to the big relay Red, but I didn't think of that 'til later  Best laid plans....... It's tough working on the floor in the Lotus. Tougher getting up 

You must stay in the full Lotus position until you attain true enlightenment… and today, we are having grubs, fried with Holy Corn Oil… this is the Oil from the Corns of Holy Men… (Firesign Theater)

The relay is a great replacement, also if you get another dual relay, you can wire the headlight switch the same way, and get a full 12v to the headlight through the relay, gives much nicer low/high beam down the road, with no loss due to resistance.