[DanB]

Nice!  Damn that thing looks too clean  (or maybe I should give mine a once over!)

[Dodd]

The other thing I wish I could cure is the first 10 or 15 seconds of starting cold when if you DARE touch the throttle it will die, but it feels as if you MUST rev it a bit or it will die. So once in a while it is STILL tricky to keep running that first 15 seconds after which you can just walk away and it will tick over happily. It's very strange

Ditto 2
What NKGs did you use and what Champion did you replace them with?
D.

[tooseevee]

Ditto 2
What NKGs did you use and what Champion did you replace them with?
D.

            Go down and read the "No Cold Kick Start" thread below. It's all there in mind-numbing detail 

[Dodd]

            Go down and read the "No Cold Kick Start" thread below. It's all there in mind-numbing detail 

Interesting stuff 2.
My idling was similar to Micks (Re: The No-Cold-Kick-Start Problem-thread) 'cept I'd get a slight stumble, sort of brrr brrr brrr drrr. I've always use NGKs so, like Mick after reading your posts, I was Champion curious.
Replacing the B8ES with a N2C, I use  the black NGK cap, I tried to start her. Press press press kick kick kick. Nothing. Bugger what have I done.
Then, after deciding to put the cap back on (Wife distraction whilst putting new plug in,,,Honest Guv) she started straight off.
Did a 20 mile "town and a bit of a blast" run with no dramas at all. In fact she seemed to run better than she had for a while. 
When I got the bike she was using a B9ES. I changed carb from stock to TM32 and with Tom's help dialled it in pretty sweetly. During this Tom recommended switching to the 8 and now I wonder whether to stick with the N2C, if it ain't broke!, or to use the 8 equivalent.
And idling is pretty damn sharp too.
D.

[Adrian II]

If I understand my heat ranges correctly N2C is quite a cold plug, it might not get hot enough to burn off any soot after a while. If that happens try an N3C, my AVL hybrid seems quite happy with one of those.

A.

[tooseevee]

Interesting stuff 2.
My idling was similar to Micks (Re: The No-Cold-Kick-Start Problem-thread) 'cept I'd get a slight stumble, sort of brrr brrr brrr drrr. I've always use NGKs so, like Mick after reading your posts, I was Champion curious.
Replacing the B8ES with a N2C, I use  the black NGK cap, I tried to start her. Press press press kick kick kick. Nothing. Bugger what have I done.
Then, after deciding to put the cap back on (Wife distraction whilst putting new plug in,,,Honest Guv) she started straight off.
Did a 20 mile "town and a bit of a blast" run with no dramas at all. In fact she seemed to run better than she had for a while. 
When I got the bike she was using a B9ES. I changed carb from stock to TM31 and with Tom's help dialled it in pretty sweetly. During this Tom recommended switching to the 8 and now I wonder whether to stick with the N2C, if it ain't broke!, or to use the 8 equivalent.
And idling is pretty damn sharp too.
D.

          I'm glad you had good luck (well, at least you didn't have Bad luck) with the Champion plug.

           Yes. I, too, want to try one number hotter just to see. The N2C insulator (although an "OK" color) is a little too dark brown to me after so few miles so I just want to see what difference there might be with one heat range hotter. But, like yours, it runs really really well. Well Hell - it runs fantastik well!!

            I only do this rarely, but mine will idle down to about a thump a second, but I don't do it for long. I think I like about 950 to a 1,000 although I don't have a tach. I guess in India, the fewer thumps per minute, the better.  No good for engine 

[Adrian II]

The first thing I noticed with a set of borrowed "S" cams (courtesy of Bullet Whisperer) in my Electra-X some years ago was how well the thing idled, worthy of an old stationary engine. This was absolutely not the reason for fitting them, of course... 

A.

[Dodd]

The first thing I noticed with a set of borrowed "S" cams (courtesy of Bullet Whisperer) in my Electra-X some years ago was how well the thing idled, worthy of an old stationary engine. This was absolutely not the reason for fitting them, of course... 

A.

Those "S" cams appear to be the holy grail of the Electra X.
Shame they are rarer than an Essex virgin.
But if anyone is interested, maybe we can get enough together to make it worthwhile for BW
to manufacture a batch.
BTW A, what gap did you use for the N3C?
D.

[Adrian II]

Hitchcocks' sell used sets from time to time. They were the standard touring cam for late 50's and early 60's Redditch Bullets (nothing special in themselves) so they are still about.

The late stock iron barrel Indian Bullet cams are similar and our Indian friends have used them to good effect in AVL engines, though they are not QUITE as good. If you're timing them on the dots there are also contact issues with the inlet valve and piston crown, which will need a small pocket cutting in to provide clearance. It doesn't help that on all the Electra-X heads I have seen the valve seats sit about 1mm proud of the combustion chamber, nothing your local engine shop can't put right, but it's another little niggle to cope with.

Someone in the UK also used a set of Henry Price's "R" cams quite successfully, there were some dyno print outs on the MBR forum a while ago.

With declining interest in the Electra-X/AVL models it may be difficult to get enough interest for another batch of "S" cams to be made up, B.W. can confrm, but I think 6 sets are the minimum order, and based on what they cost a few years back they won't be cheap.

I didn't re-set the N3C gap, I just fitted it straight out of the box, the BT-H mag seems happy with it as is (non-suppressed plug cap used on my bike). 0.025" electrode gap is usual for plugs on coil ignition systems.

A.