Author Topic: What does the breaking-in process entail?  (Read 2548 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jschroeder423

  • Scooter
  • **
  • Posts: 4
  • Karma: 0
on: September 18, 2008, 01:27:49 am
I'm really leaning towards the RE, but I've searched this board and other websites and haven't found what exactly the break in process is comprised of.  I'm patient and somewhat mechanically inclined so as long as it's not ridiculous I think I can handle it.  Thanks in advance.


The Garbone

  • Shade Tree
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,978
  • Karma: 0
  • User Complaints: 22
Reply #1 on: September 18, 2008, 02:18:42 am
Basically you keep it under 45mph for the first 300 or so miles changing engine speed while not racing rpms.    There are a lot of threads here that discuss this I suggest using the search option for the forum.  Between 300 and 500 when you do your first oil change there are differing opinions of fluid choice. 

Also of note is the machines shifting gets much better after about 1200 miles.

I have had my RE for 2 months now and love it.
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


cyrusb

  • Kept man
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,616
  • Karma: 2
  • There's a last time for everything
Reply #2 on: September 18, 2008, 02:43:21 am
Well, it IS ridiculous, but worth it.
2005E Fixed and or Replaced: ignition, fenders,chainguard,wires,carb,headlight,seat,tailight,sprockets,chain,shock springs,fork springs, exhaust system, horn,shifter,clutch arm, trafficators,crankcase vent.


Bath Bullet

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 224
  • Karma: 0
Reply #3 on: September 18, 2008, 08:46:24 am
I have just changed mine as per the Bullet service guide at 544 (should be 500)kms, thats 338 miles, next one due at 3000kms or 1684miles.
Running it in as precise as possible, road and traffic conditions allowing, living in a rural/country/coastal area of Scotland it really is no sweat.
I may be biased on this one, but I would say go and get one!
Take one for a test ride, you will be bitten and smitten!
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


jschroeder423

  • Scooter
  • **
  • Posts: 4
  • Karma: 0
Reply #4 on: September 18, 2008, 01:16:20 pm
I went to the closest dealer to me (about 5 miles away) and saw exactly the one I wanted, I'm already "bitten and smitten" as you say. 


Thumper

  • Psalm 23
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,066
  • Karma: 1
  • Classic Wannabe
Reply #5 on: September 18, 2008, 02:11:40 pm
I'm really leaning towards the RE, but I've searched this board and other websites and haven't found what exactly the break in process is comprised of.  I'm patient and somewhat mechanically inclined so as long as it's not ridiculous I think I can handle it.  Thanks in advance.

If you get an RE  your Owner's Manual should specify the manufacturer's recommended break-in (or run-in) procedure.

Usually it is to keep the speed at or under a certain mph for the first XXX miles. After that the speed is stepped up to AA mph for another YYY miles. They might even add the recommendation for you to drive it gently until you hit ZZZZ miles. Finally, they usually recommend that you vary the throttle frequently while riding throughout the entire process.

There is usually an initial maintenance required at or around 500 miles to change the oil and filter, and to retorque the head.

Matt


Bath Bullet

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 224
  • Karma: 0
Reply #6 on: September 18, 2008, 03:08:32 pm
Here is the page for my 2001 manual, printed January 2000, should not think its changed too much.
Sorry its not brilliant, but I scanned it direct to p.c. but it will give you an idea.
Not sure for the AVL, and I would think the new one about to come out will be totally different too.
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


meilaushi

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: 0
  • If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Ride!
Reply #7 on: September 18, 2008, 04:10:18 pm
Here's the official break-in chart from the RE Service Manual...translated into MPH.  Wisdom dictates that you follow it just about to the letter.  Running too fast, too long during break-in can result in several nasty occurrances, none of which you want to happen.  Be easy on the bike during this period.
Break-in: First 500 Miles/800 Kms - Bullet
1st 50 Miles, < 30 MPH

50-500 Miles, Vary the engine/vehicle speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances.  Vehicle speed up to 37 to 40 MPH is permissible.

Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle.  Drive slowly until engine warms up.

From 4th gear to 3rd gear - 24 MPH or less
From 3rd gear to 2nd gear - 18 MPH or less
From 2nd gear to 1st gear - 12 MPH or less

CAUTION: DO NOT EXCEED THE SPEED OF 37 to 43 MPH during 500 to 1000 Miles

GEAR CHANGE PROCEDURE AND SPEED DURING ACCELERATION:

From 1st Gear to 2nd Gear - 25 Kmph to 30 Kmph
From 2nd Gear to 3rd Gear - 35 Kmph to 40 Kmph
From 3rd Gear to 4th Gear - 45 Kmph to 50 Kmph
From 4th Gear to 5th Gear - 55 Kmph to 60 Kmph

DURING DECELERATION:
From 5th Gear to 4th Gear - 60 Kmph or less
From 4th Gear to 3rd Gear - 50 Kmph or less
From 3rd Gear to 2nd Gear - 30 Kmph or less
From 2nd Gear to 1st Gear - 20 Kmph or less

I didn't translate the gear change speeds to MPH as listening to the engine and having a feel for it running easily is the best way of telling when to change... only note well... do not lug the engine during break-in...  doesn't pay to do so either after break-in...

Have fun, and enjoy the road and sights at lower speeds.  One gets used to that during the break-in period.  It's nice. :) 
Ralph Meyer
2008 RE Classic Bullet ES :) "Ennypenny" (It's an Enfield and costs pennies to run!)
2010 RE Deluxe G-5 :)) "Eagle"
2010 BMW F800ST
Ridin' 58 years & counting!  Back roads are fun! Member IBA.


Leonard

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,287
  • Karma: 0
  • I loved this bike!!
Reply #8 on: September 18, 2008, 11:20:57 pm
You are going to have to use a little common sense cause I'm here to tell you that you will have a hard time running 60 kph in top gear without lugging the engine.  I think the best advice I've seen is in the Snidal manual:

             Mileage Max        Throttle Opening

           300 Mi / 500 Km                    1/4
           500 Mi / 800 Km                    1/3
           1000 Mi / 1600 Km                1/2
           1500 Mi / 2400 Km                3/4
           2000 Mi / 3200 Km                Full When Necessary

Just make some calibration marks on your throttle and don't worry about how fast you are going, the dang speedos aren't very accurate anyway.  Don't lug and don't over rev just listen and feel the engine and you will be OK.
2009 Triumph Bonneville T100
2004 Royal Enfield Sixty-5 (RIP)
2001 Kawasaki W650 (going, going...gone)
http://www.romeoriders.com


jschroeder423

  • Scooter
  • **
  • Posts: 4
  • Karma: 0
Reply #9 on: September 19, 2008, 02:25:22 am
Thanks, you still haven't scared me off!


petefletcher

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 224
  • Karma: 0
  • One Life - Live It
Reply #10 on: September 19, 2008, 06:16:28 am
I think Leonard has it right - it's more about throttle openings than speed. Just mark the throttle and go by that.
Oh, and the gearbox does get better!
2008 350 Classic Bullet
1961 Triumph Cub Trials