Author Topic: Engine Oil  (Read 12266 times)

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Guaire

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Reply #15 on: April 07, 2017, 06:46:04 pm
GHG - thanks for the experienced recommendations.
  I just look for the JASO on the oil package. The full synth Rotella has a JASO rating too.
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #16 on: April 07, 2017, 06:52:31 pm
Sad, its not available at any Walmart stores within 50 miles from my location :(
I have to check if I can get it from somewhere else.

   You can get it at any of the chain auto parts stores... or your local auto parts store.  Probably for around the same price for that matter.

GHG - thanks for the experienced recommendations.
  I just look for the JASO on the oil package. The full synth Rotella has a JASO rating too.

 Oh, Jaso ...smasho, as long as it's not marked energy conserving on the bottle.  Those are the ones with the friction modifiers in there they you may not want for your clutch. ;)     
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


The Old Coot

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Reply #17 on: April 07, 2017, 11:28:54 pm
That's strange. I've seen it in every Wally World I been in.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 02:07:52 am by The Old Coot »
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Arizoni

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Reply #20 on: April 08, 2017, 11:57:36 pm
I'm sorta guessing but IMO the Royal Enfields clutch in the UCE coupled with the low horsepower the engine puts out makes the JASO requirement not nearly as important as Royal Enfield seems to think it is.

Yah, on one of those 130-160 horsepower crotch rockets it is very important to buy JASO qualified oil but on our bikes?

The comment about using automotive oils with the super slick stuff in them for getting high fuel economy is important.
Those additives are for engines that don't lubricate their clutches with the engine oil.
Our motorcycles do use the engine oil for the wet clutch so don't use those auto oils in your bike.

Since the first time I changed the oil in my G5 I've used Mobil-1 V-Twin oil and although it is not JASO approved, it works great.
Jim
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REpozer

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Reply #21 on: April 09, 2017, 02:09:31 am
I use 15w-40 .
Brands: NAPA, Carquest, Wal-Mart Supertech, Delo.

Into the engine and primary( clutch ) it goes.

Speaking of primary ( clutch) . I have used  : 10w-30, 10w-40, 15w-40, 20w-50, ATF-F. With no slipping.
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Arizoni

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Reply #22 on: April 09, 2017, 06:15:08 am
Quote
Speaking of primary ( clutch) . I have used  : 10w-30, 10w-40, 15w-40, 20w-50, ATF-F. With no slipping.

You are talking about one of the older motorcycles that use a separate oil sump for their wet clutches?

Somehow the idea of using ATF for an engine lube doesn't sound right to me.  (The older Iron Barrel and the later AVL Lean Burn clutch and primary drive has its own oil supply.  The new UCE engines don't.)
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


REpozer

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Reply #23 on: April 09, 2017, 07:14:20 pm
You are talking about one of the older motorcycles that use a separate oil sump for their wet clutches?

Somehow the idea of using ATF for an engine lube doesn't sound right to me.  (The older Iron Barrel and the later AVL Lean Burn clutch and primary drive has its own oil supply.  The new UCE engines don't.)
Yes, the seperate oil sump for the clutch on Iron Barrel and AVL is the " Primary" cover or primary drive.

The point I was trying to make , was no brand oil or viscosity of oil has ever caused me any clutch slipping.

Was hoping to apply some of that knowledge to  the UCE engine.
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Carlsberg Wordsworth

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Reply #24 on: April 10, 2017, 08:50:13 pm
Out of interest, what are the issues that can arise from using a 40 weight opposed to a 50 weight?

Only because I'm thinking (rightly or wrongly) of changing to 10w 40 for a UK climate.


harshjain

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Reply #25 on: April 10, 2017, 10:22:08 pm
Out of interest, what are the issues that can arise from using a 40 weight opposed to a 50 weight?

Only because I'm thinking (rightly or wrongly) of changing to 10w 40 for a UK climate.
Thats a good point. Will 10W40 be good for San Francisco Climate ?
Its in 60˚F - 75˚F throughout the year.


gashousegorilla

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Reply #26 on: April 11, 2017, 02:46:43 am
   Well worth reading I think....

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oil.html
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Blairio

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Reply #27 on: April 11, 2017, 06:27:52 am
Yes, the seperate oil sump for the clutch on Iron Barrel and AVL is the " Primary" cover or primary drive.

The point I was trying to make , was no brand oil or viscosity of oil has ever caused me any clutch slipping.

It's not just about the viscosity and effect on the clutch. Modern oils have additives that are harmful to  phosphor-bronze bushes. Castrol make a range of mono grade oils, and generally oils & lubricants compatible with older gearboxes and primary drive systems. They are not that much more expensive than modern stuff, and will be kinder  to an older engine & transmission.


malky

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Reply #28 on: April 11, 2017, 07:31:39 am
I've stuck with the recommended oil because I can get it locally. Regarding the older bikes, when I got my first Indian bullet, the advice I was given was cheap supermarket 20/50, because it would be better than what most bullets in their home land got treated to. Fear sells. If you don't buy this expensive product your engine will blow up, etc etc. My old bullets got an oil change as per the book. My UCE gets the same. Allowing a warm up period from a cold start is good policy.
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harshjain

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Reply #29 on: April 11, 2017, 05:53:41 pm
   Well worth reading I think....

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oil.html
Thats awesome!! Thanks for sharing it :)