[blasphemous]

Thanks MrUnderHill,
Ordered it from our forum hosts and the part is on the way. There are the parts I am not sure where they go (included in the kit from the forum hosts). The inner diameter of the crimp washer is 12 mm.

[mrunderhill1975a]

The crimp washer (140305) is part 3 on the attached diagram. The cylindrical part is either part 22 or 23 (23 most likely) which is just a distance piece that surrounds the shaft for the foot pegs. You probably already have this cylinder on your foot peg shaft, so no reason to use the new one.

[blasphemous]

Thank you good sir !

[longstrokeclassic]

It looks like the Pawl has been worn away. This is caused by either the kick starter being prevented from returning to the fully upright position or the pawl itself not being closed down fully to avoid the internal ratchet teeth on the gear which the end of kick starter spindle sits inside. If it's the latter then grinding away unwanted material from the spindle will provide sufficient clearance to permit the pawl to move out of harms way.

[Yamahawk]

I received a shifter fork (#26 in the manual diagram) which goes inside the transmission with my rt. hand conversion kit. Do you think it wise to install it, instead of using the existing shifter fork? The transmission only has 1500 miles on it, since new, and I didn't think it worth replacing at the mileage it has. What do you think? I have to shifter stop plates coming from India, they should be here in a week or two. The shifting, if done slowly, will engage the gears 95% of the time while upshifting, but sometimes hits a false neutral past the gear selected in 2nd and 3rd gear. Downshifting, seems tight, 4th to 3rd is good, but second gear won't select 95% of the time, making usage of the neutral finder imperative, then shifting into second gear which is successful 50% of the time. As soon as I get the extra stop plates, I will weld and grind one until it fits both pins into the stops at the same time, both for upshift, and downshift.

[mrunderhill1975a]

I cannot think the original operator shifter fork is in any way improved by the new shifter fork, unless the old is bent or some other way worn.

If you are still having difficulty shifting, the areas to look at are play in the bell crank,  or incorrect adjustment of  ratchet assembly.  If play at bell crank, adding or subtracting shims between the bell crank and the inner cover bushing will reduce the play.  Too many shims, shifting difficult, too few and there will be play which leads to false neutrals because the play prevents full movement of the shift fork.

[Yamahawk]

Some progress today, I received my two shifter stop plates, and ground a little on the stops to increase travel. The downshift from 4th to 3rd gear works ok, but from 3rd to 2nd gear, it doesn't have enough 'throw' to get ito engage properly. I am thinking of grinding more on the downshift side of the shifter stop plate, and see if that will increase the travel of the shifter to get 2nd gear to engage. It just barely grinds on downshift. However, from 2nd gear to 1st, there is enough travel to get into 1st gear when downshifting.
Now, as to play in the bell crank, there is in and out play of around 3/16" or so, perhaps more, is this too much? And, if so, do the shims go inside the inner cover, between the bell crank and the inside of the inner cover, where the transmission reside? I believe this is what you meant... anyway, I have a couple of shifter stop plates to experiment with, so no great loss ($2.20 each) if I screw one up lol.

[Yamahawk]

I cannot think the original operator shifter fork is in any way improved by the new shifter fork, unless the old is bent or some other way worn.

If you are still having difficulty shifting, the areas to look at are play in the bell crank,  or incorrect adjustment of  ratchet assembly.  If play at bell crank, adding or subtracting shims between the bell crank and the inner cover bushing will reduce the play.  Too many shims, shifting difficult, too few and there will be play which leads to false neutrals because the play prevents full movement of the shift fork.

Now... when I install the neutral finder with the spring, bolt/washer, it will pull the bell crank out, increasing the clearance on the shift fork, is the correct? I am thinking it needs to be shimmed, as I have between 3/16"-5/32" play in the bell crank. If I tap the bushing in more, it will be flush with the outside of the inner cover, so perhaps shimming would be better... what do you think?
Charlie

[mrunderhill1975a]

If I remember correctly, some of the ratchet assembly hangs off the portion of the bush on the outside of the inner cover. So in your case, shims on the inside of the inner cover may be appropriate.  Keep in mind that the shims need to be thin, washers from the hardware store are too thick for fine adjustment.

[Yamahawk]

Graingers has some shims listed, .0625" id and .010" thickness and up, I am thinking a pack of 10 - .020" shims would give me some adjustment. I don't think I would need more than .20" shimming, but if necessary I could get the .010" pack of 10 also. Thanks, Mr. Underhill!

[Yamahawk]

I compromised. and bought 50 count low carbon steel shims, .015" by .626" id and .875?? od. Now to pick them up tomorrow afternoon in Perrysburg! Only $28.07 for 50 shims!!

[Yamahawk]

UPDATE!
  It seems to be the cover supplied with the rt. hand shift kit that is the culprit. If I leave the cover off, it shifts well, and when I add the cover, and do not tighten the bolts, on the downshift (Up lever) it moves the cover to the rear. Now, I have adjusted the 'hole' for the neutral finder, and I ground out a little more this morning to keep the friction off the neutral finder lever. The bolts in the cover ALSO seem to bind in their recessed holes also, and perhaps their holes need some inletting with the dremel too. The whole cover needs to shift to the left (rear) as you look at it. I will take it for a ride to my local tonsorial parlor for a 'haircut' by my old friend Bob... the Barber, and see how it performs now.
Charlie

[Yamahawk]

SUCCESS!
  The cover WAS the PROBLEM, but not the neutral finder hole, alone. The solution sometimes strikes us like the hot kiss on the end of a wet fist...
   Hmmm... the solution is turning blue...not quite the solution I was expecting.. that means the Rat should have lived, and the Cat should have died... but I digress.
It seems that the gearshift actuator arm, which rotates the shifter mechanism, was contacting the lower left-hand short bolt shroud, which is a casting in the cover. The shift arm was rotating on the downshift, towards the rear of the bike, and the hole casting was impeding the motion. Now, I could have ground the arm itself, or the hole shroud/boss, so I elected to grind on the cover instead of possibly weakening the arm. Now, it has sufficient clearance to downshift fully, and it snicks into gear from 4th to 3rd, and 3rd to 2nd, and 2nd to 1st gear. I have a little bit of upshifting with 3rd gear from 2nd, but I think that is a small adjustment yet to happen. But, I am ecstatic that I was able to figure out this shifter. The detent is also perhaps a little tight, causing the 2nd to 3rd shift to not quite complete the upshift. But, Now I have hope that it will work out well.
I have to say that the 4 speed rt. hand conversion kit isn't all that well done, but a fellow can succeed if he perseveres. Here is an article that shows the relation of the gearshift lever to the hole on it's left, in picture six.
Charlie
 http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pictures/content177/albion_gearbox_rebuild_part_3.pdf

[blasphemous]

Thanks for the update Yamahawk. I am still struggling to get my shifting dialed in.

[Yamahawk]

Here are 3 pics of what I did to allow the shift lever to actuate the gear shift ratchet lever. You can see how it is very close to the bolt hole casting, and in one pic, where I ground the casting to clear the ratchet lever.