[Joe28]

IF my scoot ever lands in American, and WHEN I finally get it, one of the things I have to do is get it ready to run in the sloppy weather here in Northeastern Pa.'s winters.
I don't think the stock chain will survive long with the road salt, grime etc. splashing up on it.
I had replaced the chain on my '04 cast iron cylinder bike, but for the life of me I can't remember if it was a 520 "O" ring, "X" ring, or regular chain.
(A mind is a terrible thing to waste, I seem to have C.R.S. lately!)
So, help a 'ol boy out and tell me if I can squeeze a sealed chain on my new rig.
Joe
I ride, therefore, I am!

[t120rbullet]

530 Standard
HD or O-Ring won't fit.
A few folks have turned down the sprockets and run 520 O-Ring chain but as long as the standard chain lasts why bother.

[Chasfield]

I had a Honda 250 RS single in 1980. That hammered its back chain and I was forever adjusting it.

My Bullet seems a big improvement over that and drive-line cushioning is good.  I haven't  ridden it in hard conditions though. The chain is always nice and oily from gear box weepage.

The thing is, replacement standard chains are cheap, and split-linked, so renewal is painless.

Chas

[PhilJ]

Since your going to be in some salt, just plan on lubing the chain daily. I have been using ATF for some time now. It works very well, but I don't have to ride in a salty environment in winter. If I did I think I would use WD 40  to clean out the rollers and then come back with ATF. I shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 minutes at most. The chain should last and last.

Phil

[Joe28]

Over the years I've used a pile of different lubes on my chains,  I've used ATF as more of a cleaner than a luber, but that is a good idea when the temps drops!
One friend of mine that I trials ride with lubes EACH link with gear oil.
It takes him like 45 minutes to lube his chain! It's fun to watch him! Each drop is EXACTLY the same, over and over and over!
I have a 80 Montesa 175 trials bike and it has a plastic chain enclosure, hardly any of the chain is exposed. Maybe I can come up with something like that??
I was stupid , when I sold my last Bullet, I gave the guy ALL the info I had collected, parts lists, etc, so I'm kinda starting over from scratch, and my mind is getting full of wool, so I can't remember what is what!
Now that I think of it, I remember ordering a "O" ring and it was hitting the case in front?
Then I put the master link facing OUT on the standard chain and it hit the case.
Well, we'll think of this like an experiment- "How long can a well maintained non "O" ring chain last"
When I think of it, for many years there wasn't a sealed chain, and guys ran the heck out them and they lasted!
Joe

I ride, therefore I am!

[Kevin Mahoney]

We have not found an O-ring that works on the 500. Newer 350's come with one however. The problem is the clearance up around the primary cover. Some may work if you don't mind it "machining" the case until it fits.
  This is not to say that there is not one somewhere that will fit.

[LJRead]

The suggestion of using ATF has me wondering.  Isn't ATF fairly volatile, and won't it simply effervesce off?  India 48 mentioned that what they do in India is mix grease with gasoline to make a thinner slurry, then soak the chain in it and when the petrol goes off it leaves the rollers filled with the grease.  I thought that was the point, get the grease inside the rollers and have it stay there.  One person connected with the chain industry suggested that for dirt bikes they just paint gear lube (90) on the whole chain with a pan underneath and let it sit overnight, the gear lube I guess making its way into the chain, the excess dripping off.  I did that and then had to lean my rear rim, but it seemed to stay greasy.  I have some new fangled chain lube ' in the mail', but today will go the gear oil route again until it arrives.

Often thought that grease from sheep fat, heated up with the dross skimmed off, would make a good chain oil as it is so difficult to clean off the plates after dinner.  It is a traditional grease for ships fittings because it also contains antioxidants, but perhaps would melt off when the chain gets warmed up.  But then, wouldn't the others?

[PhilJ]

LJ, It seems as many folks that you talk to about chain lube, you'll get one more opinion.

So I'll tell you mine. I use ATF and have for the last three years. I put it on after a ride with a little squirt bottle. I run it down each side of the chain 2 or 3 revolutions of the chain. Then take rag and puddle some in the palm area as it is covering my hand. Spinning the chain through some more. I feel it works the ATF in and also wipes some excess off. After setting overnight I get very little thrown off on the rear wheel.

The odd thing about ATF is when it dries on the wheel is seems to dry as a powder, it wipes off very easy and is not greasy but doesn't seem to do so on the chain. I've examined it many times and it always is still damp. I put it on about every fill up although sometimes every hundred miles depending on how it looks and feels. It's a very clean oil and does not attract grit like all the other chain lubes I've tried. That probably explains why I've gotten as much as 30K miles out of a chain. I've adjusted the chain once on my RE after about  1K miles and now at 6K it hasn't needed another adjustment yet.

Those are my reasons and it certainly takes more time to explain than it does to actually lube the chain. I've always got fresh oil on the chain this method.

Oh, If I have to ride in the rain, I'll oil it afterwards just in case.

Phil

[LJRead]

Thanks Phil,

I just got up from lubing my chain.  I mixed lube grease with ATF after thoroughly cleaning the chain with ATF.  The mix made a thick slurry which went on each link nicely.  Only one or two drips under the chain, so it did stay on.  Some other ideas might be the oil used on chain saw chains.

But I do like your idea of very frequent ATF oiling.  If you've had that sort of good luck, it seems a good bet.  Today I used one of those old-fashioned pump oil cans and it is really pretty easy to see just where the oil is going. 

Did a pretty thorough 1000 mile maintenance yesterday using Thumper's direction (poor guy!).  My chain, both the primary and secondary actually, show no stretch at all so far and I can't even pull the secondary chain away from the sprocket.  I guess it's the easy driving.

LJ

[PhilJ]

Yes, if there are no wheelies then chains can last and last.

I would imagine you having a lot of sand or grit by what you've said of the coral roads. I'm just guessing  because I've never been around coral. But either way lets us know about your slurry concoction as in it's retention to the chain and what kind of mess it makes if it gets on the bike. The longevity will have to wait.