Author Topic: Engine Clatter, Electricals, & Breakdown  (Read 11038 times)

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Superchuck

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on: October 30, 2016, 07:45:58 pm
Greetings gents,

My AVL left me stranded last night.  Went back to troubleshoot a few things today, and here are my symptoms.  Any advice you can give me is greatly appreciated:

First, this problem seems to have come out of the blue.  Two weeks ago I did a three day, 400? mile round trip from Baltimore to Front Royal, VA, then down Skyline drive to Charlottesville, and back home.  It ran excellent the entire time.  Since that trip I have done a few short in-town trips with no issues, and 2 or 3 longer afternoon jaunts (maybe 80 miles each).  I had an all day enduro ride planned for today, so yesterday I took it out just to doublecheck things were in working order.  As you can gather from the title of this thread I had issues.

It should go on record that the only things I'd done to the bike in the week before yesterday's test ride were to top off engine oil, check tappet adjustment (seemed fine so didn't adjust) and re-mounted my exhaust header pipe using black liquid gasket.  The previous liquid gasket seal broke when I re-packed the emgo muffler prior to Shenandoah.  My bike is jetted very rich so the additional leanness due to exhaust leak wasn't a concern.

Here's what happened yesterday:   

Took it through the city neighborhoods a bit to warm it up and it ran great.  Then got on the freeway just to make sure it was fine at higher speeds.  It was running great for a few minutes, then when I was around 60 mph it started bogging down, running very jerkily, and tried to die on me.  I flipped the reserve petcock just in case (although it didn't seem like a low-fuel issue). 

Still rolling on the highway shoulder I dropped it into gear to bump-start.  It jerkily fired back up, and seemed fine.  I was right at the next offramp, so I exited the highway via the shoulder at low speeds (30 mph), and continued to ride at those speeds for a bit. 

It ran fine at speeds from stopped idle to 40 mph, with no noticeable changes or reoccurance of the issue.  I didn't risk shutting it down in case it wouldn't re-start, thus stranding me.  After 10 minutes of no issue, I pulled a U-turn to get back on the highway home.  I kept it at 50 mph max, and it got me home without issue.

I let it cool off for 2 hours, then doublechecked the pushrod adjusters.  Adjustment was fine, but I noticed pools of oil in the bottom of the tappet-case.  Maybe this is normal though, since I always do tappets after it sits at least overnight.  (oil would normally seep its way down to the sump?).

Nevertheless, this running issue was unsettling, but I was determined to get the bike running well for Sunday's (today's) supposed enduro ride.  My wife and I decided to take the bike out for dinner to make sure everything was in working order.  Who knows... could have been a fluke right?  (wrong)

So the wife and I geared up, and the Enfield started, first kick.  I noticed the headlight wasn't working, but all other running lights/brake lights/ turn signals were fine, so no sweat.  Headlights are frustrating, but simple to fix.  Ignored it, went for the test ride anyway and this is what happened:

We took it easy, as you do with two full grown humans on a royal enfield.  We did a few minutes of semi-highway speeds, but didn’t exceed 50 mph.  No issues.  Got on some slow twisties and it was fine for a while.  After about 20 minutes on back roads the stuttering / bogging / dying issue came back.  It didn’t die for us like it did in my first test ride, but I was forced to keep it at high throttle just to make forward progress.  It felt like it was really chugging and not knowing much about the inner workings of engines, my novice brain decided it was probably some sort of timing issue.  I don’t want to muddy the waters with naïve conjecture, but it felt, I believe the term is, ‘retarded’.  Like I was obviously getting a spark, but sometimes it came just a tad bit later than it should have? 

This seemed to go away when we got down to idling RPM’s, but the bogging came back under any mild accelerating load.  We pulled over in short order and scratched our heads, realizing our dinner plans [and my beloved enduro trip] were both in jeopardy.  It was then that we noticed not only was the headlight still off, but the rest of the running lights and brake lights (all LED) had also crapped out.  Sometimes I have to jiggle the right-hand lighting control switch a bit to get the lights to come on, but no amount of jiggling brought my beautiful LEDs back to life.   We were around the corner from a restaurant of some sort, so limped the still idling Enfield over to it, parked, and morosely purchased and ate foodstuffs.  Realizing my Sunday enduro trip was probably canceled, I hoped just to get us home without further issue.  We can do it all on local roads, it just takes longer, but there’s no way I was going to try 50 mph with the current issues. 

At this point my novice noodle decided that maybe it was a battery or alternator issue.  Maybe it began with not enough juice to power the headlamp, then after riding it for 30 minutes, it drained the battery of even enough to power the LEDS, and the spark was maybe only firing by the kinetic energy of the motorcycle’s forward motion.  Again, I’m no mechanic, and there are undoubtedly flaws with these theories.  For instance, it idled fine when stopped.  But no lights. 

So after dinner we reluctantly fired it back up and headed in the direction of home via slow local roads.  Within a minute of riding I realized a disturbing amount of engine clatter / knocking under load.  It wasn’t backfiring into the carb, just loud metal-on-metal sounds.  This is bad, I thought, but let’s see if we can’t get home.  When I kept the engine down to idling rpm’s the clatter ceased, or was at least less apparent underneath the normal engine noise.  I kept it to 20-25 mph, and pulled over to let any cars pass.  We made it about 5 miles in this fashion, then it did the heavy bogging / stuttering / dying again.  I couldn’t bump start it back on, so we rolled to a stop.  I couldn’t get it to kick over at all.  Couldn’t coax it to life.  I walked it to a neighborhood parking spot on the street, and we called a cab to get home. 

I was bummed, but it’s part of the ‘charm’ of Enfield ownership, right?  So now to learn what happened.  I realize I may have multiple issues here.  I went back up with all my tools and manuals this afternoon, and this is what I found:

Still no lights. Turned the key and it started right up.  Didn’t put it in gear.  Turned it off, rolled it into a parking lot and preceded to do my novice troubleshooting.

Tested the battery with multimeter:  full charge.  There goes the alternator theory.  The headlight is getting juice under both the hi-and-low beam settings, and the headlight ground is continuous.  So it’s the bulb.  No worries, but that doesn’t solve the other lighting issues. 

Main fuse is fine, not burnt.  I have the green TCI unit, and from what I’ve learned on here, the TCI deals with spark plug timing in a curve as speeds and RPM’s increase.  From what very little I know about engines, it seems like the only electrical issue that could have any impact on my engine issue would have to stem in some way from the TCI.  Again, I could be completely wrong. 

On another post on here I read that somebody else had a similar dying issue (but his was at idle) and it turned out the spark plug was on the fritz.  To eliminate that variable I popped in a brand new spark plug.  Realizing I was nearing the limit of my troubleshooting abilities, I decided to take it for a short spin to gather as much data as I could for this here forum post. 

It fired right up, no problem.  Idled fine and strong.  I took it around a few blocks in the neighborhood, and realized that it had a lot of high-pitched clatter at the top section of the engine while under load.  It seemed to run fine at lower RPM’s, so I did a few circles like that to gather more data.  With the bike stopped, but giving it 50% throttle, there is a little bit of this top end clatter, but nothing compared to when it’s under load.  I took it for a spin through the neighborhood for another 5 minutes, and it seemed to be running fine.  I stopped noticing the clatter, and was beginning to think I’d just imagined all this insanity.  Then after coasting/ riding under mild load down a slow residential neighborhood hill, it straight out died, just like last night.  I turned it off, tried to kick it over a handful of times, but dead it is.  Rolled it into a parking spot, trudged back to my car, and here I am to tell my tale.

I know Enfields are known for shoddy factory wiring.  Short of me pulling it all apart and re-doing all the wiring with new connectors and wires and solder (which I may do this winter anyway), does anyone have any ideas as to where I should begin?  There is clearly an electrical issue, but I am unsure if it is isolated-from-or-directly-related to my engine issue.

Thanks so much in advance for any help.  I am determined to fix this, but like everything else on my Enfield I’ll have to learn by doing, with the help of you fine folks on the forum.

Many thanks again.

Chuck


Adrian II

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Reply #1 on: October 30, 2016, 09:01:32 pm
Electrically it could be the TCI or possibly a failing/failed ignition coil if fuses and wiring are intact. Also check the ignition switch wiring, that can start to fail causing intermittent/unreliable contact.

I'm trying to think what the top-end clatter mechinical might be, you could take the rocker covers off as well as the tappet cover and make sure everything is where it should be. Another source of top-end mechanical noise would be a worn little-end, but that would be at all rpm.

Looking a little further down a slack primary chain causes an awful rattle if it has the adjuster bolt head slapping against the outer cover, but it will be intermittent. 

A.
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REpozer

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Reply #2 on: October 30, 2016, 09:09:32 pm
Hey Chuck ,
This sounds like a possible ignition problem.
Do you have your old black TCI. I saved mine for trouble shooting .
After checking the conections on the TCI , safety switches, on/ off switches , battery grounds, battery health....alternator out put.
Check the ignition coil ohms reading while cold, then put a hair dryer on it and test ohms reading again while it's warm . If your bald barrow your wife's or girlfriends hair dryer.
That is what I would start with.
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Arizoni

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Reply #3 on: October 30, 2016, 10:55:44 pm
Chuck
Out of curiosity, what spark plug are you running in the engine?

If its is too hot, that could explain some of the loud noises your hearing when the engine is at high speed under quite a bit of load.
A overheated spark plug tip can cause pre-ignition which will not only reduce the engine power but cause sever pinging.

The bogging down feeling can be caused by a lack of oil being delivered to the cylinder walls and piston.
I know you said you topped up but that wouldn't help if your engine was having a problem with its oil pump system.

It might be worthwhile to loosen the lower B-nut that holds the bottom of the oil supply tube to the sidecover, a couple of turns.  Once loosened, start the engine and let it run for a minute or so.
You should see oil seeping from the loosened tube.

If you see a healthy oil flow, everythings fine so button it back up.

If you see little or no oil leaking, it might be the fault of the oil pump drive gear.
This is a worm gear that is on the right end (aft looking forward) of the crankshaft.
It drives a mating gear on a shaft that runs forward and aft in the right side engine cover.  The shaft drives a pair of gear type oil pumps, one to pump oil to the crankcase and the other, to scavenge the crankcase of oil and pump it up to the rocker arms.

These worm gears are the same kind of gears used on the Iron Barrel and they have been known to wear out at unexpected times on the IB's.
Jim
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Superchuck

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Reply #4 on: October 31, 2016, 01:17:11 am
Thanks so much, you guys are awesome.  The bike is ten miles away and it's nighttime and raining so I won't be able to get out to do more tests until after work tomorrow.

That will give me some time to doublecheck where all those things you suggested are located on the bike so I can streamline the troubleshoot tomorrow evening.  In the meantime:

The plugs I run are the NGK BR6ES 4922.  I've been running those same plugs for a few years, and I do believe they are a bit hotter than stock.  It's been fine thus far though, so I think there's something else at the root of the problem. 

I don't have the old black TCI box... my bike came from the dealer with the green one already installed.  Wishing right now I could swap that out, but it seems like there's a bigger wiring problem plaguing my bike (maybe in addition to a potential failed TCI).

I tightened the primary chain before my shenandoah trip, and in my 10,000 miles of ownership that was the first time it needed adjustment.  The noise seemed to be coming from higher up, near the valves, but if it persists I'll pull the primary case and give it a go.

EDIT:  I removed the side kickstand and the associated safety switch a few years ago.  Also, I've had trouble with the ignition switch wiring before, but it's always been a no-start scenario.  I would have to 'jiggle' the wiring in the headlight casque before the bike would power up (lights or sparkplug).  I'm clearly getting a spark now, but I won't rule out the ignition wiring as being part of the issue.

On a side note, I installed the 'performance pushrod adjusters' from our host earlier this summer.  The ones that prevent the pushrod from falling out of alignment at high RPM's.  I've had some top end clatter before, but that was only with poorly adjusted (loose) pushrods.  These weren't super loose when I checked them yesterday, but I'll doublecheck when I get up there tomorrow.

I'm going to thumb through my parts manual and I'll reply if I need further clarification on any of your suggestions.

Thanks so much again to everyone for all of your help with this.  This forum was one of the big reasons I chose Royal Enfield in the first place (it's my first bike), and it's been a fantastic ride since day one (i think 7 years ago??).  Even with occasional breakdowns I'm still loving my AVL, and each setback is just another opportunity to get to know the machine in more detail.

Thanks again, and I'll be back with more progress (fingers crossed!)

Chuck
« Last Edit: October 31, 2016, 01:37:12 am by Superchuck »


Adrian II

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Reply #5 on: October 31, 2016, 01:50:21 pm
I'd agree with Arizoni about the spark plugs, B8ES or B9ES would be better. You don't need a resistor plug if you have a suppressor plug cap.

A.
 
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Superchuck

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Reply #6 on: November 01, 2016, 01:22:38 pm
Adrian II, thanks for the heads-up.  I honestly didn't know the difference.  I based my sparkplug choice on a few old threads I'd read here years ago, and I probably misunderstood most of what I saw anyway.  I'll revisit the sparkplug options after I get this thing working again.  One time on a hot day this summer I experienced a backfire/ping when running hot.  It's the only time it's happened, but that's proof enough that I need a cooler plug in there.  (and no need for resistor)

Last night I got it towed home in my buddy's pickup.  By then I didn't have a chance to poke around in it at all, but hopefully I'll have some answers in the next few days. 

I traced my ignition components in the wiring diagram, and it seems logical to me that I have issues with both the ignition switch (for the lights) and the ignition coil (because of performance cold vs. warm).

Only time will tell.  Thanks again, and I'll be back with more data.

Chuck


Superchuck

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Reply #7 on: November 02, 2016, 02:47:42 am
So I got a chance to dust off the multimeter and poke around for a while tonight.  It's slow going because I'm a novice at best.  Here's the data:

Bike was observed cold.  I didn't try to start it at all.

Battery ground seems secure.  Electricity was being delivered to the headlight and rear lights.  With ignition switch (key) on, rear running lights have electricity, and that connector's ground lead is also good.  One of my two license plate LED's is illuminated, but nothing else will light (including brake light when triggered, although it's getting current). 

Either I somehow fried all my LED's, or there's a short in the self-inflicted rat's nest of rear-light tangle.  Brake light is getting juice at that connector as well so at least we know the ignition switch and right-hand switch seems to be functioning.  The lights are a secondary concern, so on to the coil.

Tested the ignition coil cold, then warmed it for ten minutes straight with the wife's hair dryer on full blast.  (removed it and sat it on the counter in front of said appliance)

Primary:  Between the 2 leads in the pigtail it read 5.6 ohms (cold).

Secondary:  Between the spark plug connector and either pigtail lead I got 20.9k ohms (cold).

Then warm...

Primary:  6.5 ohms

Secondary:  23.7k ohms

Are these figures what I should be expecting?  They don't seem that drastic to me, but I don't really know much about these things.  I was hoping for a short when warm.

With the ignition switch on, there was electricity running to the brown pigtail lead that supplies the coil.  Flipped the kill-switch on the RH control cluster and that stopped the flow.  Electricity to the brown pigtail lead came back when I disengaged the kill switch.

The red/white wire of the coil's pigtail was neither hot nor ground.  According to my wiring diagram it splices in with the red/white lead coming from the TCI unit, and both are allegedly fed by the ignition switch. 

Which brings me to a conundrum...  It seems my wiring diagram does not exactly match my bike.  I have the Electra 500, with AVL engine, and the diagram is titled, "Complete Circuit - Bullet Electra - E Start".  Is there a more accurate diagram floating around out there?

Diagram discrepancies:  My wiring diagram only shows 2 connectors (with a total of 5 wires) entering my TCI unit, but reality shows that my TCI has 3 connectors (total of 7 wires).  The connector that my diagram is missing has 2 green wires coming out of it.  The other two connectors seem to match verbatim.  Furthermore, my diagram shows 4 wires coming from my ignition switch, but in reality only 2 of those 4 wires are received by the ignition switch connector plug.  (the ignition switch provides 4 wires, but what's plugged into it is a 4-wire connector with only red and red/white, 2 wires omitted).

I apologize for my naivety.

Now I am wondering about my first two mid-ride shutdowns where I bump started mid roll, and if they could've caused a surge in amperage which may have fried some of my smaller wires and headlight bulb.

So that's all i've got for now.  If those coil readings are standard, I think my next plan of action is to break my bike again.  I'll ride it around the block until it breaks down, then re-test for electrical flow to the coil, TCI, etc.

Any suggestions / warnings / words of the wise?

Thanks again very much,  I literally couldn't do it without you guys.

Chuck


Superchuck

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Reply #8 on: November 02, 2016, 02:51:09 am
Here is the wiring diagram I am working from.


Adrian II

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Reply #9 on: November 02, 2016, 12:32:46 pm
Quote
My wiring diagram only shows 2 connectors (with a total of 5 wires) entering my TCI unit, but reality shows that my TCI has 3 connectors (total of 7 wires).  The connector that my diagram is missing has 2 green wires coming out of it.  The other two connectors seem to match verbatim.

The RE factory TCI units take 7 wires, two to the trigger in the primary case, three to connet to the coil/ground/power AND another two to the side stand cut-out switch. You might have an aftermarket TCI box fitted.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


Superchuck

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Reply #10 on: November 02, 2016, 12:48:22 pm
Thanks A,

Actually my bike has the 7-wire TCI.  Apologies for the confusing post.  It's my wiring diagram that only shows 5.  This wiring diagram is good enough to puzzle things out by, but I don't think it's entirely accurate for my bike.

From your explanation I now know the diagram is omitting my kickstand safety switch.  I disconnected that at the bottom end and removed the side stand years ago.  It's open at the unplugged end, so I will doublecheck it's not intermittently coming in contact with a conductor (thus disabling my TCI).

I'm booked up tonight, but tomorrow I plan to hit the troubleshooting hard.  Any further suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Chuck


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #11 on: November 02, 2016, 08:27:20 pm
Are you trying to suggest that an RE wiring diagram isn't accurate? :o
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Superchuck

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Reply #12 on: November 02, 2016, 09:04:22 pm
Haha, actually I just thought I had the wrong one. 

TLDR:  To reiterate a quick excerpt from my above novel, does anyone know the expected resistance of the ignition coil?

Primary:  Between the 2 leads in the pigtail: 5.6 ohms (cold).
Secondary:  Between the spark plug connector and pigtail: 20.9k ohms (cold).
Then warmed with a hair dryer...
Primary:  6.5 ohms
Secondary:  23.7k ohm

Is the pulser coil also something I should be checking?  My plan tomorrow after work is to ride it til it dies, then check for current before and after Ignition Coil, TCI, and maybe Pulser Coil, doublechecking running lights current as well.

Thanks!

Chuck


Superchuck

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Reply #13 on: November 03, 2016, 03:45:14 pm
For future reference, (for anyone else who may experience a similar issue), this is a great summary write-up about how the timing and ignition system works, from Pulser Coil > TCI unit > Ignition Coil > Spark Plug.

http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=2398

Hopefully I'll be able to diagnose it all tonight.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2016, 04:16:53 pm by Superchuck »


Superchuck

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Reply #14 on: November 04, 2016, 12:41:29 am
So i fired up the bike this evening in attempt to recreate the breakdown.  Of course when you want it to break it never does. 

Rode it for about 10-15 minutes around the neighborhood, and it seemed fine for the most part.  It was night time and all my lights are still blown so I didn't want to make a scene... kept it to a low rpm the whole time.

Pulser coil impedance cold:  197 ohms
Pulser coil impedance hot:  209 ohms

...this was tested at the green and white pigtail that plugs in the TCI.

In the Snidal manual I couldn't find any recommended range for ignition pulser coil impedance, but those values sound reasonable to me. 

My inability to recreate the breakdown makes me believe it's a wiring issue, not the coil or TCI or pulser. Since it's dark when I get home from work now, I'll have to wait until Saturday to run it harder and try to break it again.  Ordering a new headlight bulb now.

Looks like I have a full harness preventative rewire in my future.  At least it's almost winter.

Cheers,
Chuck