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Author Topic: WINTERIZATION SALE  (Read 973 times)

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Gray Roers

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on: September 30, 2016, 02:27:57 pm
WINTERIZING TIPS FROM CMW

Well it’s that time of year again. For those of us unlucky enough to have to put our bikes away let’s do it right!! By winterizing the bike properly, you will be able to turn the key and go in the spring!!

Oil
This is the time to change fluids. Oil holds acids, dirt and water in suspension so why let your engine sit in that all winter? A fresh oil filter and new oil will help preserve your engine in the long run and let you start it right up in the spring and go!!

http://www.classicmotorworks.com/oil-change-kits/

Battery Care
Good battery care can double or triple the life of your battery. NEVER put your bike away without an automatic battery charger on it. It will ruin your battery. We recommend either the Battery Tender Junior or the Techmate – Optimate 3 premium charger. This investment can pay itself back in one winter. On the other hand, you could just keep buying a battery every spring.

http://www.classicmotorworks.com/tecmate-optimate-3-premium-battery-charger/
http://www.classicmotorworks.com/supersmart-12v-battery-tender-junior

Fuel
Today's fuels break down quickly and if not stabilized for storage will cause you a lot of grief in the spring. They will gum up the fuel system and can corrode your system. Here are the “best practices”
Fill your tank so that water does not condense inside over the winter and cause rust. As part of that process use a fuel stabilizer such as http://www.classicmotorworks.com/sta-bil-fuel-preservative/
Then run the engine for a couple of minutes to make sure that the fuel stabilizer gets into the carburetor or EFI system. For bikes with carburetors it is then critical to turn off the fuel tap at the tank and let the engine run until it runs out of fuel and leaves the carburetor empty.

Chain
Clean, lubricate and adjust the drive chain now. (add chain cleaners, chain wax, chain lube etc.
While you are here check the sprockets for wear. If you see wear replace both the sprocket and chain.


Tyres
Tyres should be inflated to the correct air pressure before the bike is stored. If you can it is best to Not store them on dirt. If you don’t have an option  put some wood underneath them. We are not fans of tire dressing but if you must…..
 
Filters
This is a good time to change your air filter, clean the airbox and be locked and loaded for spring. Why wait and do it then? I like to use a bit of K and N “filter grease” on the rubber edges of my bikes with conventional air filters to be sure to seal dirt and dust out. http://www.classicmotorworks.com/k-n-filter-sealing-grease/
 If you have a low restriction air filter such as our K and N clean the filter and recharge it http://www.classicmotorworks.com/k-n-filter-care-and-recharge-kit/

Electrical System
Go over the wiring on your bike looking for loose, damaged or corroded wires or connectors. Repair them now while the bike is working properly rather than in the spring when you don’t know where to start. To waterproof them consider a dielectric grease such as http://www.classicmotorworks.com/permatex-dielectric-grease/  I use it even on bulbs so moisture doesn’t cause them to corrode and go off at the worst possible moment. Don’t forget to check the wires under the rear fender to look for chafing.

Cables
We all know that cables only break at the most inopportune times.  Before we put the bike out of sight and out of mind inspect and lubricate all of them (don’t forget the decompressor cables on pre-UCE models and the air lever cable on UCE models)
 
The biggest cause of cable failure is moisture that causes the cables to corrode from the inside out. Lubricating your cables can prevent this and make things work much easier as they were meant to. Here is a cable lubricating kit that gets the correct type of lube all of the way through your cable. http://www.classicmotorworks.com/k-n-filter-sealing-grease/
It is good practice to spray some WD-40 on the cable ends after each rain. Another great idea is to use these cable lever covers on your iron barrel to prevent the problem in the first place.  http://www.classicmotorworks.com/handlebar-lever-covers/
If you see ANY problems with your cables replace them NOW.
 
Cleanliness is next to Godliness
Now is the time to wash and protect the finishes on your bike. This will preserve the finish, help prevent corrosion and let you be ready for a fast getaway in the spring. Don’t forget to wax the wheels especially if they are chrome and to clean and lubricate the chain.

Nuts and bolts
I like to say that you should “touch” every nut and bolt on your bike while inspecting and washing it. Things have probably loosened up here and there while you enjoyed your thumper over the summer and this is a good time to find and rectify them. Put a wrench on nuts, bolts brackets etc. and make sure they are all snug. You will be surprised at what you will find. It will take 15 minutes and can save you hours later. Use Locktite on nuts or bolts that you think may come loose again. One drop can fix that for the life of your bike. http://www.classicmotorworks.com/permatex-threadlocker-blue/
 
Cover the bike
After you are finished with the above steps put a cover over your bike. We are very much in favor of covers that breath or at the very least allow air to circulate inside of them.