[Bath Bullet]

Help, help, help, time is running out!
Firstly it is a pig to start, even when warm it always needs priming, then when riding it starts to cut out, missing, and now started back firing in the exhaust.
It runs out of steam, spluttering to a halt, but strangely will start again after effort.
I cant see any obvious air leak on the manifold.
The plug has been changed, the carb has been cleaned, and re-set as per instructions in manual and dealer, its as though it is starved of fuel.
The bike has just over 400 kms only, its been stored for 7 years, but the fuel is clean, the filter has no grit coming through, and fuel flows freely to the carb.
I am am begging to think electrical, but time is running out, as I live 400 miles from the dealer who has offered me a full refund and is organising collection, giving me a short time to get it sorted.
I really dont want to part with it but, there are no dealers up this far who know what they are doing with Enfields.
Help need fast, Thanks,
regards
Terry

[Bath Bullet]

Hi Ken,
Strange thing is it has run fine, then it goes off again, I agree it seems like starvation, or air leak.
First thing was the plug was changed.
To day I stripped the carb, every thing cleaned, checked the 2 plastic tubes for leaks, none, took the manifold off and took out the steel tube and tapped the hole and screwed in a screw with loctite. (proper professional job! )
I have a proper blanking nut on the header pipe.
Tank off and flushed, not much crap, but some that's not in there now, fuel tap off and cleaned/checked.
Timing checked, o.k.
Eventually started the bike, reset the carb and run lovely...................until it stopped!
And again...........and again, until I thought I'd give it a run, took it out down one side of the road round the football pitch, fine, got the the top of the other side and pop, bang splutter, just caught it to get me home.
Dealer got onto Watsonians, they are sending up a new condenser, and a 120 jet.
I canceled the offer for  a refund, I want this bike, it cant be much of a problem, for some reason, I must be mad, but I love it!!
I will sort it, if the new jet doesn't work, then he will change the carb!
Its not the dealers fault, it would be easier if I lived nearer, he is doing all that he can, and I trust him totally, as I say he offered to refund and pay the carriage back.
I'm pretty sure its not electrical or timing, when it runs right its fine, but for some reason it seems to run out of fuel but the carb bowl is always full when I check.
Strange!
 

[PhilJ]

There has been a lot of talk from some gurus, and I think concerning  the same basic symptoms, about the fuel tank not venting properly. Just a thought, I wish I could help more.

Phli

[Chasfield]

My bike is a 7 year old low miler that had few issues when it came to me. It had a free flow exhaust but had not been up-jetted. It would spit back and stall a lot when cold. When hot it ran better but would still spit back sometimes, which often killed the engine, generally just at some awkward moment. It would not run well with ignition timing set to specification and was better with it advanced a few degrees. A bad sign - I think lean fueling can effectively retard the ignition because flame propagation is more sluggish. My carb also had a teaspoon of sludge in the float bowl which wasn't helping.

These fueling issues were also made worse by the shot battery that was on the bike. At idle, application of the brake would sometimes cut the engine - the ignition circuit couldn't  spare a couple of amps for the brake light.

At the moment I an running a 120 main jet with the stock silencer (slightly drilled) refitted. It now runs sweetly with the ignition timing where it should be.  A new battery and an LED rear stop/tail light bulb sorted my electrical issues and starting is much improved.

[cochi]

Scot, don't give up! I had a 1964 305 Honda Scrambler with the same symptoms. It would start on both cylinders then as it warmed up, it would sputter and the left cylinder would cut out. I went nuts trying to figure it out. I finally changed the condenser for the left side and it cured the problem. From then on I made it a habit to change the condensers each time I changed the points. Good Luck. cochi   P.S. Make sure your battery is good.

[Spitting Bull]

I agree about the battery.

Did you remove the main jet at all?  If so did you notice a little washer which goes above the jet, and did you put it back?

Tom

[Bath Bullet]

Thanks chaps,
PhilJ, I though of that too, when I cleaned out the tank I put my finger over the tap hole and shook the tank around, the petrol built up pressure an I could hear the cap hissing, so I think its o.k, considering the petrol would build up pressure while sloshing around being ridden too, its still a possibility though.
Chasfield,
It has a brand new battery as the o.e was a bit knackered after 7 years of doing nothing, I doubt if it would have lasted half that time doing something anyway, I also put in A LED bulb as soon as I got it too.
It got well tested today as I left the ignition on while I reassembled the bike, but it still (eventually) started, and showed a good charge rate.
Cochi:
I have a 120 jet and a new condenser coming up, hopefully here for Thursday, our Thursday gets here before yours does so you might know how it went on Wednesday Wednesday! Ha ha!
Sittingbull;
You got me thinking, so I went out and whipped the bottom off the carb and checked, if its the one that sits round the main jet you are referring to it is there.
Looks like we are all thinking along the same lines though, so hopefully I will have solved it by Thursday.
Thanks again chaps.

[Spitting Bull]

SB - that's the washer I meant.  It's easy not to notice when it drops off and rolls into some dark corner.  Without it, the jet doesn't seat properly and running is dog rough. (Never experienced this, but have seen other owners refer to it, so thought I would mention it here as you've had your carb to bits).

Tom

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

Perhaps not related, but overoiling the K&N filter sometimes gives similar symptoms.

[kensar]

Hi Terry. Any developments yet? I have a new condenser here. Would you like me to post it to you 1st class? It really could be electrical you know. Things "break down" internally. Even a piece of wire can look good on the outside yet be broken inside. Could give you a perfect connection or system then suddenly go haywire. If you want the condenser you are very welcome, also have new C/B set too. Give me a ring 01909 722803. Ken

[Bath Bullet]

Hi Ken,
Thank you very much for the offer, but I have a new one coming up from D T Mackenzie, my dealer, along with new air box tubes, and a 120 jet.
If that doesn't work then he will be sending a complete new carb, and possibly a coil.
Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow,
Thanks again,
Regards
Terry

P.S. i really must also say how good Mackenzies have been, the bike is a long way from him, but he is as determinded to get it sorted as I am, I know all the blah about dealers responsibilities etc, but too many would use the distance as a good excuse do do 'not a lot'

[kensar]

That is good. It sounds like you are determined to sort it. Just bet it will be something simple. Ken

[geoffbaker]

Can you tell if it is running rich? I ask because from the backfiring it sounds like it might be too rich.

Good that you're keeping working on it... don't give up!

After 7 years of storage it could be anything of course.

I bought my bike last year it was a 2000 and I ended up having to do all kinds of stuff to get it working nicely.

I would empty the tank out and look for rust and particles. Could be enough junk to jam the petcock - before you even get to the filter. I'd replace fuel and air filter. If its a air pressure issue, run it with the fuel tank cap removed.

I'd also check the carb float level. It could be misaligned/out of whack.

[Nacho]

I bet its the coil!!

Maybe we should have a poll?

[Bath Bullet]

Funny you should say that, thats what I said in the very beginning!
COIL!!
We will see, the other parts are on the way up to me!

[Nacho]

Yeah, I've had similar symptoms once with an old Mini and once with a Harley - both were a dodgy coil!!

Hi from Houston Texas by the way.  I grew up in Ireland and moved to Scotland when I was 18.  I lived near Edinburgh for 18 years before moving here.  I return to Ireland every year so me and my dad can ride about on our old BSAs.

[Bath Bullet]

Hi ya, never been to Ireland, but was living near Edinbugh upto 6 Months ago, Livingston to be exact!
Lets hope its fixed tomorrow.

[longstrokeclassic]

The sign of a failing condenser is that it works OK when cold, but fails as it warms up.
After it fails the bike stops running , the condenser then cools down which will then allow the bike to be started again, only to stop a short time later.

[Bath Bullet]

Well, its Thursday both sides of the pond now, replaced condenser, re-jetted from 110 to 120, new air pipes, and its still the same!
The importers are sending up a new coil, if its not that, I dont know.
Valve push rods are set right, no play but just spinning, I am totally lost on this one!

[Jeri Danger]

Hi
Damn!!!!!!
Bought a 500cc bullet about a month  back.
 I have exactly the same problem.
Runs ruff(backfires lots) and dies after a few minutes.
Have checked timing and valves.
Drained the tank and checked the carb,seems ok.
Have gas to the carb.
Replaced the rubber hose between the carb
and cylinder(has a K&N filter on the other side)
Have a condenser and coil on the way.
I just want to go for a ride
Thanks
Jeri

[Bath Bullet]

Hi Jeri,
Have you got a bigger jet from standard as you need one for a K&N or after market exhaust.
Standard appears to be 110, I got sent a 120, I have seen them on ebay upto 130.
I have a new coil on the way, if thats not a fix I don't know what is!
A tip: when changing the condenser, take a bit of time to shape the connector to the shape of the bolt as there is very little room, not much thread showing and its very fiddly on re-assembly.
If you can push and hold the bolt head in place on the back plate, this will give you maximum thread the fiddle the nut back on, and make sure the tag that the nut screws up against is not touching the back plate.
When you have done it turn on the ignition and check that your amp meter flicks, it will save you a lot of time if you got anything back in the wrong order.

[Jeri Danger]

Hi Scot
Ya, know when I had the carb off I did not think
to check the jet size(just to see if they were clear)
I think this weekend I will pull a coil off another bike
(still waiting for a new one to show) and try that.
Thanks for the tips on the condenser change.
I have not reached the end of my driveway with this bike and I
am really getting frustrated(ok my driveway is about half mile long).
Good luck with your troubles.
Thanks
Jeri

[Chasfield]

Scots Bullet

I am running a 120 main with standard air filter and the stock exhaust with slightly drilled baffling.
My carburation seems ok for that configuration. I tried  the free-flow S&B air filter on the same jetting and performance was very poor with no torque at low revs and difficult starting, so went back to standard filter.

[Bath Bullet]

Scots Bullet

I am running a 120 main with standard air filter and the stock exhaust with slightly drilled baffling.
My carburation seems ok for that configuration. I tried  the free-flow S&B air filter on the same jetting and performance was very poor with no torque at low revs and difficult starting, so went back to standard filter.

That's exactly what I have, notice I didn't say 'that's what I'm running' 'cause it ain't!
Only difference is there is no drilling in the baffles.

[mikail gransee]

I bet its the coil!!

Maybe we should have a poll?

I would agree on this especially since most of the problems happen when the bike is warm. Most electrics operate poorly when heated.

[Bath Bullet]

I bet its the coil!!

Maybe we should have a poll?

I would agree on this especially since most of the problems happen when the bike is warm. Most electrics operate poorly when heated.

As the only 'electrics' left to change is the coil, I think laying bets would be more appropriate than a poll!
I'll be bl**dy fuming if it is the coil as thats what I said in the first place, nearly 2 weeks ago when the symptoms first showed.
And if its not the coil?

[Leonard]

Maybe I missed it but if the battery isn't putting out at least 12.8 volts that could be the problem.

[Bath Bullet]

After standing, battery tested at 12.8, trickle charged to 13.18, charge on bike with engine running 15.8 max, new battery 2 weeks ago.

[coinzy]

Have you checked the Bullet connector 10 inches from the points,that one is well known of causing all sort's of problems.Best soldered,permanent.
coinz

[Bath Bullet]

Yep, done that too.

[Chasfield]

Scots Bullet

If replacing the coil doesn't sort the problem, had you thought of hot wiring the ignition in order to bypass the wiring harness and switch gear for testing purposes? This would eliminate a lot of variables.

After all, the coil, points and battery live next door to each other.

Should be possible to do it safely with a fused feed and not melt anything.

[Bath Bullet]

Thanks Chas, it would be another avenue to explore, but I am a bit reluctant to fiddle with these atrocious electrics like that as the bike is under the dealers warranty, I would need to discuss it with him first.
I take it you mean a wire from the battery direct to the coil?

[Chasfield]

I was thinking that totally isolating the coil would be the starting point.

Make up a fused feed from battery positive to coil positive and patch the coil's negative directly to the points feed wire, which is switched to earth by the points.

If it runs well in that configuration, you could leave the points side bypass in place and try reconnecting the coil to its original positive feed from the harness. If the motor runs nicely at this stage you would suspect that the problem lies in the line from the negative side of the coil, which runs all over the place through the kill switch and back before it gets to the points. If restoring the the normal positive feed brings the problem back then you are looking at a glitch in the power feed to the coil rather than from it.

Take care because you don't want to melt anything and you will have to pull a wire to stop your engine. Insulation tape anything you disconnect as it might flap around and ground out somewhere.

Couple of observations:

I think the ignition switch actively shorts out the points when it is in the off position - to enhance security and make the bike less hotwirable.

The harness is made out of quite thin wire and runs all over the place through many a soggy crimp connector until it gets where it needs to be. Have you actually measured the voltage that gets to the positive side of the coil?  I wouldn't be surprised if it was substantially less than 12 volts.

Looking at the layout of the bike's ignition components, battery etc, I think God meant for the ignition switch and coloured spaghetti ball to be in one of the tool boxes rather than the headlamp casquette.

[Bath Bullet]

I spoke to the dealer this morning as the coil has yet to turn up, he has arranged for several compnents to come up, including a coil, slow jet, and possibly a new carb, if that does not fix it it will go back, story, end of!
Hopefully, we will know on Monday!

[Chasfield]

I see where you are coming from. At the end of the day you need to be able to believe in the bike and endless, possibly fruitless, tinkering won't help there. Lets hope the coil banishes all gremlins.

Chas

[Bath Bullet]

TBH I didn't buy the bike as a project bike, it was supposed to be up and running, and rideable.
Very disappointing, to say the least.

[LotusSevenMan]

I was fitting an electronic ignition system to my 500 (2003) a short while back and noticed that the coil pos/neg wires were on the wrong terminals. It'd been like that from new!!
 Worth a check as that can effect the output too.

[Jeri Danger]

Hi Scot
I actually went for a ride this weekend!!!
I found that the fuel line was collapsing
and shutting off the flow of gas(petrol).
This was not  going on at idle and only after
the bike warmed up after a few minutes.
I replaced the line with some aircraft stlye
stuff I had in my shop.
The bike still had problems
Pulling the plug(after the ride) I found it was
black as night.
Also had what I would call a yellow/orange
spark from the plug, so I think some carb
carb and ignition work are ganna happen next
weekend, that is if I can get some parts.
Thanks
Jeri

[Bath Bullet]

Well, the things turned up today, a nice new shiny coil, carb. float, new slow jet, and a complete carb, could have bunged the lot on, but then if it had worked and run we would'nt know what the problem had been, would we (I)?
So I replaced the coil first, and..................................BIG DRUM ROLL.......................... brmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm brmmmmmmmmmmmm brmmmmmmm!!!!
Had it running for about 10 minutes, after it warmed up it ran fine, roughly 'tuned' the carb, stopped it, restarted, run cracking!
It only needed 1/2 a stroke to restart too, I have never known that!
Cant road test it as I have to re re-insure it again, and its raining cats and dogs!
Better forecast for tomorrow, but I am pretty confident I have fixed it!!Thanks too all you guys for your help an suggestions, I really hope this is the fix!
It appears Nacho and others, including myself were right in the first place;)
Kind regards
Terry

[Jeri Danger]

Hi
Very cool !
Jeri

[Chasfield]

Glad to hear the Bullet's finally a runner.

Chas

[cochi]

Scots, great call !! Your instinct was right!! Congratulations cochi 

[kensar]

Good news. Very pleased you are away. Let us know what your first ride is like. Good luck and well done, Ken.

[Bath Bullet]

well. I apprehensively got the bike out this morning, after a few good primes it started.
I warmed it up, switched it off and left it for about 5 minutes, went back and it started again!!
Yahooooo!
Off down the road goes me and Harry (bike is named Harry, after an English comedian - Harry Enfield), and I went the 8 miles to the filling station, filled up, started yet again, and headed for home!
That's when the new problem started, as I approached the right hand junction turn for my road, it would not turn!
It went straight on, past the next junction, and I ended up 25 miles away at a port called Scrabster, on the Northern most Coastline of Scotland!
Well blow me down, on leaving Scabster it goes off on its own again to John O Groats, before I could get it to head for home!!
We ended up doing a 70 mile round trip and Harry didn't miss a beat!
That knocked off the remaining  kms + a few for its first oil change, so I have just done that as well, and checked the head bolts, drive chain, all bolts etc, the only thing I still need to do is the primary oil, I thought I had some ATF, but found I didn't, so that's a job for another day!
I feel pretty confident now to say its fixed!
Thanks again every one
Best regards
Terry

[baird4444]

WOOHOO...     you've done it!!

the bonding process has begun.
 As far as that steering problem, it is quite common.
        Enjoy the ride - Mike

[geoffbaker]

That steering problem sounds dangerous!

The best way to fix it is lots and lots of riding. Eventually, it will work itself free.

[Bath Bullet]

Yeh, I put it down to newness, further investigation is required.

[kensar]

Great news Terry. I am really pleased for you. I cycled on some of those roads up there past The Grey Cairns of Camster. Spooky! I had an argument with a sheep! Ken

[Suitor_Stu]

Good to hear you got things sorted out Scots!

As you reported, that is a common fault in all models (from 1953 on).  You have to watch out though because once broken in, this fault actually becomes WORSE (contrary to what geoffbaker is saying) and you find yourself unable to turn for hours on end.  Just one of those little niggles about bullet ownership however...

Stu

[Bath Bullet]

I have a theory it might just be more to do with the rider being a 1954 model >, than the bike!

[cochi]

I really envy you guys across the pond. We in the colonies do have some great roads, but it would be nice to experience the roads  where the Bullet was initially created. Enjoy your "steering problem". cochi

[staib]

I sometimes read these threads to pick up useful technical tips - but this thread read more like a gripping story!  All those twists and turns, the hope and depair, and then finally the resolution and a happy ending - another great 'ride into the sunset' 
Long may you keep riding 

[DaveG297]

I would not have believed this story if I hadn't read it myself.   Ain't us Bullets types nice fellows though.    Enjoy the bike while its running good.   I finally got my ES to kickstart the first kick.  Am reallly proud of my self........68 and still kickin.......dg