Author Topic: Weak HTCoil?  (Read 3745 times)

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Bath Bullet

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on: August 31, 2008, 06:15:55 pm
Well, my bike turned up late on Friday night, very pleased with what I've bought, got it out on Sat for its first ride with me.
Back ground: Reg Nov 2001, but has only done 49 miles, up until yesterday.
It is very difficult to start from cold, will not have choke, not running rich or weak going by the plug.
Not kicking back, or any sign of back fire in exhaust, but started to 'miss fire' when traveling, and dropping down through the box.
No exsesive drop on amp meter when its missing.
Very difficult to start when warm/hot too.
I have checked the points, gap correct, no sparking at points so I don't think its the capacitor, checked the plug and I have a frail orange to light blue spark, I have 2 new plugs and it does the same on both.
Fuel has been changed, there was a very slight amount of dirt in the filter at first but not reoccurred, fuel flows through the pipe to the carb without restriction.
Had carb off for cleaning, not messed with any settings as when it does run its o.k.
No kinks or obstructions in the air box or pipes.
In my opinion its the HT coils breaking down, although its 'new' as far as no useage, it is 7 years old, and I have heard of them breaking down without use.
Any other suggestions please?
Apart from that, is a lovely bike, condition well beyond my expectations, so I would like to get it sorted, as I think its a 'keeper'
Many thanks
Terry
« Last Edit: August 31, 2008, 06:21:04 pm by Scots Bullet »
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #1 on: August 31, 2008, 06:20:38 pm
It is possible that the coil is at fault, but it is HIGHLY unlikely. We replace very few of these. Far more likely is a weak or bad battery. It should be just over 13 volts at rest. When you hit the starter if should not drop but a volt or two. Motorcycles batteries do not last that long - especially if they have been sitting. Also check the two low voltage leads to the coil, they can fail, but I really doubt that this is the issue.
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Kevin Mahoney
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Bath Bullet

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Reply #2 on: August 31, 2008, 06:23:38 pm
Its a new battery, fitted by my dealer.
I'll go out and check it with my meter, thanks.
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Bath Bullet

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Reply #3 on: August 31, 2008, 06:29:18 pm
Getting a reading of 12.80 volts at stand still, ignition off.
When its running the headlight come up with the revs by the way, so I presume its chargeing and there is no secondary lighting coil on these?
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #4 on: August 31, 2008, 06:35:51 pm
Check the battery voltage when it is running. It should rise to around 14 or so. The headlight is on a totally different charging circuit. It is possible that one is good and one is bad.
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Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


Bath Bullet

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Reply #5 on: August 31, 2008, 06:38:46 pm
Will do, when it stops raing >:( and IF I can start it!
Thanks a lot :)
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Bath Bullet

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Reply #6 on: August 31, 2008, 06:45:25 pm
One other thing, with the engine running normally, when I use the turn signals it does show a discharge on the amp meter, is this right, or could this be a clue?
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #7 on: August 31, 2008, 06:50:17 pm
With the engine at idle it may be normal, but if it is at 1500 RPMs or more it should not do this
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Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #8 on: August 31, 2008, 07:11:31 pm
At idle you will see a discharge even from the brake light.  I hold my front brake on at idle to stop the front forks from shaking and with the turn signal flasher the ammeter shows discharge.
Diagonally parked in a parallel universe.

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Bath Bullet

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Reply #9 on: August 31, 2008, 07:12:57 pm
On start up and early traveling the needle goes to the right, but after a while it comes back to neutral, showing no charge or discharge is this right?
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Chasfield

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Reply #10 on: August 31, 2008, 07:36:50 pm
With the ignition on the battery will run in total  loss mode until the motor fires and starts to provide a charging voltage. The battery's internal voltage will be depressed and it will accept charging current for a while. As the lost charge is made up the battery's internal voltage recovers to nearly that of the charging voltage and the charging current will decrease.

My bike came with a shot battery and this effect was very visible. The battery's internal voltage would drop quickly under total loss starting conditions and when the motor fired a strong charging current would show but only for short time - a kind of shallow breathing effect.

With a new battery in place  the charge current doesn't seem to yo-yo so much. The total loss while starting doesn't drive the internal voltage down so much and the battery is generally more willing to accept charge.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2008, 07:50:05 pm by Chasfield »
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Bath Bullet

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Reply #11 on: August 31, 2008, 08:06:37 pm
Hmmm, seems to make sence, I have the battery on a trickle charger, it is taking a charge, so I bung it on in the morning and (try) to fire it up and get a reading.
the battery was new, although it does have **o5 stamped on it although it would be dry stored until required.
Thanks to all for the help.
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


jonapplegate

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Reply #12 on: August 31, 2008, 09:15:54 pm
In the past threads on batteries, it has sounded like the stock one can be a bit hit or miss. Also, your bike is still "new" it needs to break in and these machines are built tight. Everything is going to be harder and require more effort at first. Things will loosen up shortly. Do it right though or you will lose some life before your rebuild.
    When mine was brand new, I was sure something was wrong with it. Barely turn over with the starter, couldn't kick start it cold even though it was recommended to do so. Plug fouling constantly. Transmission acting in a way I can only call "erratic". fine one day clunky the next. Called my dealer and he seemed unphased. I kept riding, changing plugs, and after a while all the problems went away.
    You should be aware that the indicated MPH is about 5mph over the actual speed so when breaking in this may be the difference between lotsa fouled plugs, like I had, Or perhaps none. When your top speed is under 40mph then 5mph is a huge increase.
   Also, the shifting. These bikes have a ratchet type shifter so don't worry about having to gently nudge it into gear. You wont overshoot it. Don't go all he-man on it either and really break something.   
« Last Edit: August 31, 2008, 09:36:24 pm by jonapplegate »


Bath Bullet

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Reply #13 on: August 31, 2008, 10:02:29 pm
In the past threads on batteries, it has sounded like the stock one can be a bit hit or miss. Also, your bike is still "new" it needs to break in and these machines are built tight. Everything is going to be harder and require more effort at first. Things will loosen up shortly. Do it right though or you will lose some life before your rebuild.
    When mine was brand new, I was sure something was wrong with it. Barely turn over with the starter, couldn't kick start it cold even though it was recommended to do so. Plug fouling constantly. Transmission acting in a way I can only call "erratic". fine one day clunky the next. Called my dealer and he seemed unphased. I kept riding, changing plugs, and after a while all the problems went away.
    You should be aware that the indicated MPH is about 5mph over the actual speed so when breaking in this may be the difference between lotsa fouled plugs, like I had, Or perhaps none. When your top speed is under 40mph then 5mph is a huge increase.
   Also, the shifting. These bikes have a ratchet type shifter so don't worry about having to gently nudge it into gear. You wont overshoot it. Don't go all he-man on it either and really break something.   

Yep. i know what you mean...........except mine wont start!
Battery is taking a full charge, 13.4 volts, so we will see tomorrow!
Its a replacement battery, after atleast 6 years of standing idle the O.E. was long past its sell by date, thats now gone off to the big charger in the sky!
That gear box is something else, a neutral between every gear!
Not exactly the Burman I remember on my Triumph Thunderbird, but as you say, I will get used to it, that is, of course, when it starts!
Whats that neutral finder for, if I stop/its stops of its own accord, in gear, that seems to flop down to rest and not do anything, then I have a hell of a job to find neutral with the gear lever.
Until I get it running properly I cant really do anything.
Its under warranty, so the shop will get it sorted if need be, but if I can sort it or find the probable cause it will mean I dont loose the bike for too long.
Best regards
Terry
BITING THE BULLET:  2001 500 CLASSIC living in Sunny Bat, Somerset
Also 2008 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE 865 EFI


Chasfield

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Reply #14 on: September 01, 2008, 12:23:16 pm
The neutral finder is, I think, directly connected to the selection mech in the box and can be operated from second, third or fourth gears. It bypasses the click stop mechanism.

As you are coming to a halt, instead of working your way down the box just pull in the clutch and use your heel to depress the neutral finder until it rests against its stop. The box should then be in neutral between first and second ready for the next pull away.

I can't work mine without looking down yet. Need more practice.
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