[ace.cafe]

Okay, I need to be careful with this , because there are other vendors' products mentioned,, and I don't wish to step on anyone's toes. I will supply additional information when I respond to your email. I worked late yesterday, so I couldn't respond last night.

In general,  we can make our head work compatible with any of your parts selections.

The cam situation with AVL Bullets is somewhat limited by a curious harmonic valve  bounce issue,  and the S Cams were found by B.W. to solve the matter with standard heads. They do a good job in that role, opening up the way to some higher revs without bounce.

With our head work, we change the entire valve gear package to our exclusive Ace valve gear when we modify your head. This solves the harmonic issue, and is open to a wide selection of cams then. Our Ace Magnum Cams will work, and have similar timing like the S Cams, but have .050"higher lift.  We like that for performance. Our Ace Magnum Cams are exclusive from us. When using any Iron Barrel cams in an AVL, you may/will need to modify your exhaust side tappet guide or decompressor parts, because Iron Barrel cams are smaller base circle, and this affects the tappet motion range. It is also possible that slightly longer pushrods may be needed. People have done all of these things, so it is not a very difficult task, and Iron Barrel cams are pretty much the only open Avenue to performance cams for an AVL.

It's no secret here that I prefer Mikuni flat slide carbs like a TM32 or TM34 in this application.

The Hitchcock ignition control box would be a good idea for adjustability.  The TCI ignition itself is fine, but the stock system isn't adjustable, so you need that.

No need or want for the Boyer on an AVL. Just run a good battery.

Piston could be from CMW, either their forged item, or a stock 535 piston from a Continental 535 GT.

You will want some improvements to the clutch, which can be as simple as Barnett plates and Type F ATF in the primary.

The header pipe does have a restrictor in the tail of it, which needs to be removed. You can "core it out" carefully from the tail end with a proper size hole saw in an electric drill. There are some topics in the archives here about doing that.

Remove the PAV and all its associated parts, and plug all the holes. CMW has a cap for the bung on the header pipe.

[tooseevee]

One of those is mine and I'm soooo looking forward to it.

           Mine is the other one   

           It's marvelous, miraculous and I love it. Believe ANYthing ACE sez 

[1 Thump]

Ace and 2CV already answered most of what you need to know. Here is a short answer: Buy parts from Ace and get Chumma to install them. He is in Jersey, not too far form you.

[mattsz]

+ The piston was the only one that said it worked with AVL ... the dome looks impossible unless it's full race. Are you talking about the Forged EFI 535cc UCE piston (that others have said will work with AVL)?

How about a forged JE piston spec'd for a 535 AVL?

[ace.cafe]

How about a forged JE piston spec'd for a 535 AVL?

Is there one?

[Adrian II]

For serious thrashing you might also want to think about replacing the weedy AVL cam followers with iron Bullet cam followers which have thicker stems. This either means boring the crankcase housing to take the larger O/D guides, or turning down the O/D of the bigger guides to fit the AVL crankcase. You would also need to use the cast iron Bullet tappet adjusters and over-length push rods, which can be adapted from a pair of cast iron 500 Bullet pushrods with the AVL push rod tops.

If you're junking the electric start I'd also ask Ace to fit a small decompressor valve in the head!

You can still find used original Redditch "S" cams if you are patient, otherwise you'll have to wait and see if B.W. commissions another batch. Our Indian friends often use the cams from a cast iron Bullet (which are close to but not identical to the "S" cam) for a performance hike in the 500 AVL. Please be aware that there is not much clearance between the piston crown and the inlet valve head with these cams, you may need a small valve pocket cutting in the piston crown to avoid contact if you time the cams on the dots.

Ace's suggestion for flat slide Mikunis is good, I have run a TM36-31 very sucessfully, though this particular beast is a tight fit under the gas tank and headsteady lug on the frame.

Mk2 Amals work well, as B.W. proved on his 103 mph machine (that was with a 36mm carb), so do PFH Dell'Ortos available in 32, 34 and 36mm bores. Malossi sell a flange rubber that will bolt one of these straight onto the 500 AVL head.

Hope this helps,

A.

[kayak65cuda]

How about a forged JE piston spec'd for a 535 AVL?

I didn't see one but I may have missed it.

For serious thrashing you might also want to think ... cast iron 500 Bullet ...

lol ... with enough machining will I end up with a cast iron? That's what I was worried about.

Ace's suggestion for flat slide Mikunis is good, ... Mk2 Amals work well, ... Malossi sell a flange rubber that will bolt one of these straight onto the 500 AVL head.

What is the difference between th Amal MK1 & the MK2?
CMW and Hitchcock have MK1's 32mm with mount flange for AVL

[kayak65cuda]

If you're junking the electric start I'd also ask Ace to fit a small decompressor valve in the head!

definitely

[mattsz]

How about a forged JE piston spec'd for a 535 AVL?

Is there one?

I didn't see one but I may have missed it.

There is.  If anyone's interested, PM or email me...

[gashousegorilla]

 There is also a more swallow domed JE piston available , based on the flat topped AVL.  This in a 500 cc variety,  and helped me get to 35 HP plus at the wheel  in a UCE motor.  Which I believe shares the same stock combustion chamber shape, if not volume as the AVL .

[kayak65cuda]

There is also a more swallow domed JE piston available ...

can you share a supplier link?
thanks

[Bullet Whisperer]

What is the difference between th Amal MK1 & the MK2?
CMW and Hitchcock have MK1's 32mm with mount flange for AVL
[/quote]
 There is a world of difference. I really don't like the MK I's, they often have troubles with their pilot circuits blocking - I have even known them to be blocked from new in some cases. Also, there are only three needle positions, so a narrower scope for adjustment - there are usually 5 grooves on the MK II needles. The 'choke' [enrichener] on the MK II's is a much better device for cold starting than a tickler and / or air slide. The MK II's are easier to fit and remove quickly and importantly for me, they are available in larger sizes, up to 40mm choke size. Wherever I have the freedom of choice, they are what I use and I have no business interest connected to them, they are just a damn good carb in comparison to the MK I's and many other carbs.
 B.W.

[ace.cafe]

Technically speaking, the Mikuni VM round slide carbs are originally designed by Amal. Mikuni paid Amal to license them the Amal design. The VM series is basically the same design as the Amal, with perhaps a few changes by Mikuni.

However,  flat slide carbs came out in the 80s, and really proved better for performance. They are not allowed in most vintage racing because they are not "period correct ", but for street use or modern racing they are very good. They typically cost a little more, but not a lot more. The Mikuni TM series is a great carb for the money. We use them on all the Fireballs. We are not a Mikuni affiliate or even a dealer. We buy them off ebay. But we use them, and like them.

Regarding pistons,  it depends on valve size, cam selection, and if the chamber will be modified. We can discuss these things. We don't make a piston for AVL at this time, so we don't have a dog in that fight.

[gashousegorilla]

can you share a supplier link?
thanks

   Piston would be from me or Scooterbob.  I get those custom made.  I have one on hand currently.  You can PM me if you are interested .

[Adrian II]

This might be an idea for oversize pistons if you don't want to make the jump from 84mm to 87mm in one go.

A.