[guss,guss]

Hello gearheads.
 i see two new cylinder heads for sale, 146182, and 144564. both say ES.
the part number for my 99 1/2 is 144500.
 why cant i use one of those on my KS only.  i think it has to do with the threads on the rocker oil feed quill bolts.and probably the rocker cover studs threads.  what could i do to make one of these work? 
 thanks.

[Kevin Mahoney]

The short answer is that you can make it work. You will need to deal with some thread issues and some adapting with the banjos but it can be done. I would call Tim in the office on Monday 800-201-7472. He may not know about the banjo differences (or he might). If it were me I would take the banjo's from an ES and adapt them to the KS crankcase. Maybe use the KS base (first couple of inches) and then the ES banjos. The problem is that the KS exit from the top of the crankcase and the ES from the bottom.
The threads for the rocker studs etc. can be dealt with.

[Ice]

 AFAIK/IRRC the E/S heads use the small 10mm banjo bolts and the K/S heads use the large 1/2 inch banjo bolts.

 Putting one head on the other will require fabricating oil lines with the correct ends. Large banjo bolt holes can be bushed for the small bolts.

[ace.cafe]

Yes, we have done it dozens of times.
Easy conversion, as described above.

[guss,guss]

   The problem is that the KS exit from the top of the crankcase and the ES from the bottom.
The threads for the rocker studs etc. can be dealt with.

i didn't know that. i have never gotten a good look at an ES, upclose. but i think i can make something work.
 here's what i'm thinking. i want to get an alloy cylinder and an 8.5 piston.then rephase the cams.  the head i have now is weather beaten, pitted and has what looks like a small crack in the outside. its going to need the valves reworked anyway. not modified, just stock re worked. if i put the old head on a new alloy cylinder, i don't know if i could ever clean it up enough to look right. so it just seems like a no brainer to get a nice new head at a bargain price. 
 i know i cant get the RPMs for higher speed out of the stock bottom end, but little steps for now.
 any comments from the peanut gallery are welcome.
 

[ace.cafe]

Use the lower part of the external oil line from your KS, and use the top part of the external lines from an ES model. Join them with a short piece of small fuel hose and some good clamps.
No problem.

[cafeman]

You could also use brake line banjo fittings and braided brake lines to connect everything, not the cheapest, or the vintage look, but certainly trick. And, once the banjo fittings are bolted on you wouldn't need to ever remove the bolts and worry about striped threads in the soft head. Just undo the hose from the banjo. Another option.

[guss,guss]

 Ace, one time i asked about the cams and rephasing them. you told me the instructions were in a yahoo file, but if i cant find them you could send them to me. well, i cant find them. i thought they were in a recent post but turns out those are for installing the kit. do i need a 3 position pinion to rephase?
 can you send the instructions to me or tell me where to find them?
thanks.

[longstrokeclassic]

Sorry to jump in, but it's done with your cams positioned like this...

The left hand inlet cam alignment dot is set one tooth higher than the right hand cam exhaust one.
Be careful not to move the idle pinion when moving the inlet cam as it will change the ignition timing.
If you have the 3 way pinion then set it in the advanced position.

[ace.cafe]

Thanks Ric!

That's how it is done,  guss,guss.

[FastEddy]

Sorry,but what is the idle pinion?Never heard of it.THX!Picture if possible.

[ace.cafe]

Sorry,but what is the idle pinion?Never heard of it.THX!Picture if possible.

It is the gear that drives the distributor gear in the timing horn. If you move it while rephasing, the ignition timing will be off.

[longstrokeclassic]

[Blltrdr]

Use the lower part of the external oil line from your KS, and use the top part of the external lines from an ES model. Join them with a short piece of small fuel hose and some good clamps.
No problem.

The oil line is copper. The joints are soldered. You could purchase a newer line with the smaller banjo's and desolder the banjo fittings off both lines and solder the smaller fittings onto your old line. At the same time remove the plating off the rest of the line to expose the copper for a cool old school look.

[guss,guss]

OK, really? rotate the "inlet" cam counterclockwise one notch.and i don't do anything to the exhaust cam, and this is going to make a big difference. i dont have the three position pinion, but i don't need it? OK. i'll try it. i don't have the knowledge that you experienced ones have, i don't doubt you.
 the Ace cams are out of stock now anyway, and this will save a chunk of change on mid grade cams.
 as for the oil line, i think it may be as simple as ordering one for a 350. but if the lower fitting does not match the case, i could  cut and splice with fuel line sound good. that way if i ever wanted to verify the oil flow to the top i could leave the banjo connected , and just check it at the fuel line connection. i like that idea. if i ever get the banjos on with no leaks, i will try not to disturb them.