Manually?? you mean idle?
Manually repositioning the TPS unit, then adjusting the bleed screw for a sensible idle
I've set mine at the sweet spot in the fuel map located just at the point before the stall out changes occur - the map runs very rich at lower revs to prevent stalling, probably rich enough to wash oil off the cylinder wall. Not a good place to be
It's possible to detect an audible change just as you enter and leave this very very small sweet spot.
This is my current plug as it is now after remaining untouched in the bike for around 27,000 miles, it's actually done just over 27,500...
and this is how the stock plug looked with factory fueling - which reminds me I must treat the bike to a new plug soon!
The bike has recently been fitted with an 18 tooth front sprocket which is plus one over stock and whereas the bike used to hit the rev limiter as a GPS indicated 83mph (85 on the clock) it will now exceed that speed (on the standard exhaust system) but I have no intention to hold it at WOT long enough to see if it'll hit the limiter once again and Henstridge Runway certainly isn't long enough and I also have fears for the integrity of the standard exhaust valve
When running with factory set fueling the bike required a long down hill stretch to even get close to reach its designed speed. Adjusting the fueling to see what could be achieved was just an exercise in inquisitiveness more than anything else. Minor no cost tweaks such as aligning the injector spray into the throat instead of at the inlet wall as well as indexing and side gapping the plug help a little as well as smoothing out the idle. The rest of the engine - decompressor removal aside - is just how it left the factory.
With different fueling the engine runs far better than stock - the increase in top speed is simply a byproduct of a far more satisfying bike to ride at normal speeds around country lanes.