[gashousegorilla]

Yes, that's largely what I have found, although I'm observing the air:fuel ratio using the O2 sensor instead.

Apart from the more stable idle, I cannot reliably tell whether the O2 sensor is connected or not in normal riding.  I don't trust subjective judgements, but with that caveat I feel confident that there is no radical difference in performance or behaviour.  This is a good thing - it means we can be confident Keihin did a good job on the default map.

There are some measurable differences, though.  The most obvious is the idle: on the default (open-loop) map it is richer, suggesting that the closed-loop idle is weaker than the engine really needs. 

I've also noticed that the light throttle cruising when open loop is slightly weaker than when the O2 sensor is plugged in.  This is to be expected because light cruising is one of the conditions where stoichiometric mixture is required for the cat to work.  If it weren't for emission control, a weak mixture at light cruising is better because it improves fuel economy.

   Yeah... I hear ya.  That is what you would expect. And you are probably seeing it a bit more precisely with your data logger as compared to a sniffer.    BTW, there is a part number on your ECU .  There should be a colored DOT next to it.   What color is yours ?

[SteveThackery]

And you are probably seeing it a bit more precisely with your data logger as compared to a sniffer.

Yeah, possibly, although as you know the main problem with using a narrowband O2 sensor like on our Bullets is it only really says "spot on", "too rich" and "too weak".  It won't cover a range of air:fuel ratios like a sniffer will.  Perhaps you can advise me on a better way of monitoring the mixture.  Are miniature sniffers available?  Something I could fasten to my tailpipe more or less permanently?

When the weather is a bit better I'll be doing a big push on the data logging project, and will report back my findings.

BTW, there is a part number on your ECU .  There should be a colored DOT next to it.   What color is yours ?

I'll have a look this afternoon and get back to you.

[gashousegorilla]

  Perhaps you can advise me on a better way of monitoring the mixture.  Are miniature sniffers available?  Something I could fasten to my tailpipe more or less permanently?

  No, not really.   But if you look on the net some guys have rigged up some interesting configurations at the end of their tail pipes.  And of course, there are a multitude of  wide band/ AFR gauges  combo's available.   They are a bit pricey though.  You would also have to enlarge the threaded bung hole on the header to 18 mm .  The narrow band sensors use a 14 mm... same thread pitch as your spark plug BTW.    The only reason Shawn is not using his wide band hook up on his Dyno, is because of that.  The header could easily be modified.... but it's not his bike to do so .



 

[gremlin]

there are a multitude of  wide band/ AFR gauges  combo's available.   They are a bit pricey though.

In addition to needing a larger bung-hole, the wideband units want to be at least 24 inches away from the exhaust valve. .....    I bought an OEM headpipe from CMW's special sale to modify for "test" and "tuning" of Mjolnir.

[gashousegorilla]

  Ummmm ?    Location...Location...Location..

[gremlin]

  Ummmm ?    Location...Location...Location..

I'm looking at immediately after inside the second bend aligned with the shape of the drop.

[Guaire]

I got mine on yesterday and did a short ride. It seemed to clean up the low rpm to something smoother. Most of the time the idle dropped to 1000 rpm and then died. At the end of my little ride, I pulled into the driveway and let it idle. It didn't stall out. I want to raise the idle screw a little bit then take a ride of decent length.
  I live in the burbs with lots of stop signs and lights, pain in the butt. Today is 40. This next week will be colder. I'm grateful my GT is running without any thing major going bad.
  I have a Carpy header, but I'll wait for decent weather before I pull the stocker and replace it.

[JVS]

Sorry about the thread bump. Lately I haven't been able to contribute to the forum due to some issue I had. Just wanted to provide my take on things with this O2 sensor eliminator.

Bought this recently and I must say it does make a positive difference:

- The hunting/surging has gone completely.

- There was a dead spot in the throttle sometimes just at the initial flick of the wrist. If you twisted the throttle at the right/slow speed initially, it would want to die if you didn't let go off the throttle or twisted it further. This would rarely happen since I have gone past the break-in period for a while now  This dead spot no longer exists and the initial flick of the wrist has crisp response 

- Whilst taking a corner/turning with constant throttle input, the bike would kind of 'shudder' and would exhibit intermittent loss of power, and show a sudden jump in power whilst accelerating out of the corner. Nothing to do with the side-stand switch. This behaviour has completely disappeared and the throttle input is very smooth throughout the rev range, and especially whilst in the corner at constant throttle.

- I was able to lower the idle RPM to a very relaxed thump, no surging and/or hunting. It's a constant thump. I haven't been able to record the RPM but it is just a tad lower or about the same as https://youtu.be/ltkJRE5GLbY?t=12s

Maybe ContiGT owners can give this a try first instead of opting for the PCV to see if it aids them with their initial start up/idling/stalling issues.

[Ice]

What about sta- bil?  Is it the same?

 I've not used it so therefore have no earthly clue.

 Seafoam I have and do use so can comment on it. Dosing every other tank or two radically reduces carbon deposition in my carbed bikes compared to the same bikes before. 
 A cautionary note. If you do a Seafoam de coke be prepared to be startled by the amount of removed carbon that may billow from the tail pipe during the cleaning process it's un nerving the first time you see it. Save yourself a blood pressure spike and do it after dark.
I believe Redex is the U.K. equivalent.

[pmanaz1973]

I think JVS is spot-on here.  I have a 2014 C5 with factory air and EFI Classic Silencer form out host.  I removed the O2 sensor and installed the O2 eliminator a little over a month ago and have a few runs on it.  So far, I'm happy I removed the O2 sensor.

I didn't have a "hunting" idle, but did have a weird flat/dead spot in the rev range, especially in the middle RPM range and a occasional stall when not up to operating temp that is now gone.  My bike also seems to have a more crisp and even throttle response throughout the rev range. 

I'll take it out for a longer run and take some pic of the spark plug.

So far, so good. 

[gremlin]

...... Perhaps you can advise me on a better way of monitoring the mixture.  Are miniature sniffers available? ......

http://www.wide-band.com/

[Ice]

http://www.wide-band.com/

 Highly interested in this.
 The dyno operators within driving distance of me turn their nose up at carbs and only want to play rock star with EFI bikes. Could be a very useful additional/advanced tuning tool for me. What is your opinion of it ?

[gremlin]

it works.

the sensor is larger than the stock O2 sensor -and- must be situated at least 24 inches away from the exhaust valve.  Also, it cannot point straight up (heat capture).

Here's a pic of where I mounted the sensor .....

[Carlsberg Wordsworth]

Ordered one, should be here in time to play with over Easter if the weather holds.

I'm running stock exhaust and air filter but hope for similar results that JVS, pmanaz1973 and Guaire experienced.

[Ice]

Thanks Gremlin !

 BTW what do you use for a blanking plug when the sensor is not installed ?