[Kevin Mahoney]

If only these " old racers" knowledge could be collected and put in print.

It just was

[guss,guss]

back when i was installing the RH shift i noticed in the clutch basket the friction ring that's riveted in was loose. after some advise from you people i bought a preening tool and rivets, drilled it out and since it still looked in good shape i riveted it back in. it was a little tricky making a fixture to support the rivet from under and smash it from the top but i got it nice and tight with a few dabs of JB in there. my bullet has actually been shifting like a well oiled tractor. its just slipping a little when i give it a twist in fourth.

[cafeman]

What clutch friction discs, springs, etc are you running?

[guss,guss]

everything factory as far as i know. it only had 5K or so on it when i got it, July/2013. apparently it sat for 10 years or so. i have a set of springs w/3 heavy laying around.and the outer gearbox stiffener kit. i was going to wait till i felt like i needed those before i install them.

[guss,guss]

now that i think about it, it does have more responsiveness and noticable get up and go since i upgraded my ignition with new plug wire, bosch coil and better rec/reg. i better have a look at the friction plates and see if they do need replacing or maybe its time to install the new spring set and stiffener kit.

[Blltrdr]

I believe it. Just thinking about these plates, they are relatively cheap, and giving it some thought, drilling small holes around within an inch or so from the center as you mentioned, then cutting down to the holes, which would act as a stress reliever, might be worth trying! If only these " old racers" knowledge could be collected and put in print....

George Helm sent me a diagram that looks very similar to the photo. The only difference is the slot width, the slot width in his diagram was the thickness of a band saw blade. Never tried it out, but have an extra plate set waiting to be modded in a box somewhere.

Talking about old racers, he was truly an old school racer with a ton of knowledge and who loved to pass it on. Very fortunate for me to get to listen to many of his stories from his heyday before he passed.

[cafeman]

George Helm sent me a diagram that looks very similar to the photo. The only difference is the slot width, the slot width in his diagram was the thickness of a band saw blade. Never tried it out, but have an extra plate set waiting to be modded in a box somewhere.

Talking about old racers, he was truly an old school racer with a ton of knowledge and who loved to pass it on. Very fortunate for me to get to listen to many of his stories from his heyday before he passed.

I've installed Barnett discs and six heavy springs vs three, clutch lever effort no issue and slip is a thing of the past. Ive got the cush style clutch hub on its way so when I get it I'll be doing this mod to the plates while its all apart.

[guss,guss]

Wow, guess what. my friction plates still have a good bit of material on them. so i scuffed up the steel plates with 80 grit. the first time i left my drive it pulled a lot better. i didn't feel any slipping in any gear. i thought about adding the other spring set but i wanted to see what difference this would make. now i know if i do any more mods to add HP i will need the heavy springs, at least three. i almost didn't ask about this. glad i did. and thanks for all the good advice. 
 Hey cafeman, you have six heavy springs. do you have the gear box cover stiffener added?     and are you worried about the arm lever inside the cover breaking? or did you beef that up somehow?

[cafeman]

I've got the stiffener, along with the heavy duty clutch cable (along with Doherty alloy racing levers) Running the six hd springs really aren't that bad, at least for me. I've had many other vintage and modern bikes with springs stock, as well as upgraded, some lighter and others very stiff. Never had any with a mix of heavy and light springs. Always one or the other. I think the combo is an attempt for as light a clutch pull as possible. But again, 6 heavy are not that stiff at all.

[longstrokeclassic]

Reading this has just brought some old knowledge to the surface...

One thing that I haven't seen given any prominence to is setting the operating arm adjuster correctly on the Albion box.
We know the difference in rear brake performance when the rod is pulling the brake arm just prior to 90* compared to one that isn't. Exactly the same applies to the clutch arm.  Judicious positioning of the threaded adjuster can reduce outer cover distortion, improve plate separation and noticeably reduce handlebar lever effort.
Unfortunately getting it right almost always involves altering the length of the clutch push rod.

[cafeman]

Reading this has just brought some old knowledge to the surface...

One thing that I haven't seen given any prominence to is setting the operating arm adjuster correctly on the Albion box.
We know the difference in rear brake performance when the rod is pulling the brake arm just prior to 90* compared to one that isn't. Exactly the same applies to the clutch arm.  Judicious positioning of the threaded adjuster can reduce outer cover distortion, improve plate separation and noticeably reduce handlebar lever effort.
Unfortunately getting it right almost always involves altering the length of the clutch push rod.

Good point, when I was fitting the Barnetts and readjusting the cable etc, I had the arm protruding out too far and the inspection cover wouldn't lay flat. Probably best to adjust the arm so that it just clears when the cover is installed vs. trying to get it parallel with the outer cover. That way it would be pulling towards 90 degree and just beyond vs. starting at 90 and pulling that much further?

[High On Octane]

FWIW I did this to my steel plates with a 3" disc grinder.  Increased the holding power by a lot.