Author Topic: 2000 miles down... What should I upgrade?  (Read 5847 times)

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kmmcguinn

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on: December 29, 2015, 02:59:38 am
Hey All,

Just concluded my first riding season on a 2015 B5 (~2300mi). She's run beautifully so far and I want to make sure she keeps up that trend. I've already installed a stage 1 kit, which has been a pleasant if underwhelming boost, and I wanted to get everyone's opinion on what to do next.

What should I invest in for next season? I've heard things like replacing throttle/brake cables, the battery, etc but I haven't been able to find that thread. I've got a number of aesthetic upgrades I plan to make but I would love some guidance on improving mechanical/electrical components.

Thanks in advance.
I saw a man pursuing the horizon;
Round and round they sped.
I was disturbed at this;
I accosted the man.
"It is futile," I said,
"You can never -- "

"You lie," he cried,
And rode on.

2015 B5 w/ stage 1 kit - "Betty"


Scotty Brown

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Reply #1 on: December 29, 2015, 04:08:21 am
The most significant change on my C5 was the switch to Dunlop K70 tires.  Night and Day difference in the feel and road handling of this machine.  I only wish I had done this sooner.


wildbill

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Reply #2 on: December 29, 2015, 05:09:22 am
1. Dunlop k70 tyres - there pretty good
2. followed by hagon shocks that will complete the handling side.
3. hitchcocks flyscreen
4. motorbatt battery mbtx14au
5. bullet style indicator front/rear
6. tri bar headlight
7. better quality 110 db horn $20
8. tachometer $20
9. better control grips gel style $20
10.order spare filters and seals etc and do you own regular oil changes and save the $$$$


malky

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Reply #3 on: December 29, 2015, 07:10:37 am


What should I invest in for next season? I've heard things like replacing throttle/brake cables, the battery, etc but I haven't been able to find that thread. I've got a number of aesthetic upgrades I plan to make but I would love some guidance on improving mechanical/electrical components.

Thanks in advance.
If you've done the preventative stuff, battery connection etc, a set of K70s, + lots of petrol/gasoline. Ride it and enjoy it. ;D
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Ice

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Reply #4 on: December 29, 2015, 07:52:48 am
 I have to agree with most all the above.  The Factory Service manual and Factory Parts Book are cheap as chips and probably the best money I ever spent.
No matter where you go, there, you are.


gremlin

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Reply #5 on: December 29, 2015, 02:40:48 pm
...What should I invest in for next season? I've heard things like replacing throttle/brake cables, the battery, etc but I haven't been able to find that thread. I've got a number of aesthetic upgrades I plan to make but I would love some guidance on improving mechanical/electrical components......


replace the oil & filter
add a side-car.
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pmanaz1973

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Reply #6 on: December 29, 2015, 03:18:44 pm
I have done the following to my 2014 C5:
1). Motobatt,
2). K70's
3). Change fork fluid- (major improvement of handling)
4). EFI Classic Silencer from our host.  With one riding season down, there is no sign of the bluing that the factory tube had.  It is also lighter, sounds better and seems to breathe better than the factory telephone pole. 

Other than that, I'd say lube the cables, center your rear brake, check your spokes and ride.
1984 XL350R
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1972 BMW R75/5
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longstrokeclassic

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Reply #7 on: December 29, 2015, 11:11:01 pm
With reference to No3 above,
I've yet to open up my 2015 B5 forks but I've read (an opinion?) that the later bikes have progressive springs.
Is there a preferred grade of oil for a progressively sprung Enfield compared with a linear sprung one? This being the case, what's the favourite viscosity? (cSt @ 40C please).  http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm
I've just swapped out a 15 for a 26 viscosity fluid (ATF is 34) on my MT/Fz09 and found the difference utterly remarkable.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2015, 11:14:16 pm by portisheadric »
Never underestimate the value of improved combustion efficiency and reducing parasitic engine and rolling chassis losses.


heloego

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Reply #8 on: December 30, 2015, 03:48:49 pm
   Very interesting read. Thanks for posting.
   
   Several members have changed their fork oil from the factory sludge to ATF and reported excellent results.
   I'm also coming up for a scheduled change and plan to use ATF when I do.
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johno

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Reply #9 on: December 30, 2015, 11:46:48 pm
So far I have done the following to my B5
fitted a sealed dry/gel battery (after the original boiled and spat acid all over the frame)
shorty silencer
1 tooth larger drive sprocket
heavy duty D.I.D. chain
fitted slide adjusters instead of the snail cams on the rear axle
K&N air filter
Mitas tyres ( I had to many front end slides to carry on trusting the Avon skidmasters)
fitted metalastic swingarm bushes (Hitchcock)after my pivot bolt and sleeve corroded damaging the original nylon bushes (seat of the pants says the back end is more stable now)
I also have a Hitchcock Avon style dolphin nose fairing and legshields which are brilliant for protection and long distance work.
I did have a pair of Givi 21 panniers fitted but have since replaced them with 1958 British army pattern haversacks to keep that 50/60's look.

2012 B5 Bullet
 K&N, sport muffler, 18tooth fr sprocket, Avon style fairing, 1958 pattern British army haversacks. Mitas tyres DiD chain. Carberry plate.


HiFi Guy

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Reply #10 on: December 31, 2015, 12:42:26 am
Don't forget the mirror isolator so from Hitchcock's. Inexpensive, and I wouldn't be without them.


johno

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Reply #11 on: December 31, 2015, 03:36:10 pm
Don't forget the mirror isolator so from Hitchcock's. Inexpensive, and I wouldn't be without them.
Oh yes,  mirror vibration isolators and Yamaha oblong mirrors (my OEM mirrors went all......floppy)
2012 B5 Bullet
 K&N, sport muffler, 18tooth fr sprocket, Avon style fairing, 1958 pattern British army haversacks. Mitas tyres DiD chain. Carberry plate.


pmanaz1973

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Reply #12 on: December 31, 2015, 05:24:18 pm
   Very interesting read. Thanks for posting.
   
   Several members have changed their fork oil from the factory sludge to ATF and reported excellent results.
   I'm also coming up for a scheduled change and plan to use ATF when I do.

Just curious what the logic is for using ATF instead of fork oil? 

I went with 7wt Maxima fork oil.

Here is the thread:  https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,20792.msg230853.html#msg230853
1984 XL350R
1991 XR250L
1976 Harley XLH 1000
1993 CBR 600
1976 Norton Commando 850
1972 BMW R75/5
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heloego

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Reply #13 on: January 01, 2016, 01:50:22 pm
Viscosity and that others have have had good results.
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


Guaire

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Reply #14 on: January 01, 2016, 02:55:27 pm
"Just curious what the logic is for using ATF instead of fork oil?" 
  ATF works and it's cheap.
  Fork oil has 'anti-foaming' agents that ATF doesn't have.  Fork oil has options of precise viscosity weights that give you precise changes for tuning your forks for rebound damping and compression.
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REpozer

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Reply #15 on: January 01, 2016, 06:29:27 pm
After 2000 miles, the first thing to do is an oil change.
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suitcasejefferson

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Reply #16 on: January 07, 2016, 09:53:31 am
First of all, what is a "stage 1 kit"? I have heard this terminology forever with regard to motorcycles of all brands. I assume it consists of modifications to make more power. I really have no need for more power, and don't want to put any more stress on a stock engine, just wondered what it involves.

The only modifications I have done to my B5, with just over 7000 miles on it were to replace the battery with the Motobatt sealed battery, replace the battery cables, and replace the exhaust header studs/nuts with Allen head bolts, which have been drilled and safety wired. The studs and nuts just kept coming loose. I change the oil and filter by the book using 20w50 semi synthetic. I don't have a problem with the tires, shocks, fork oil, or anything handling related like that. The Enfield is not my main bike, I ride it just for fun, because of the way it sounds, feels, and looks. In fact, when the tires wear out, I intend to replace them with the exact same thing, because I like the vintage look.

Future plans include replacing the EFI with a carb (I was just going to get the Hitchcocks kit) but have now decided I would rather have a Mikuni carb. I also really want to replace the exhaust for more sound, and to get rid of the catcon. I have considered several mufflers, including the EFI pipe, a Sportster muffler, and a number of universal replacements, like Emgo. The EFI pipe has the look I like, but I have heard so many bad things about it, like it falls apart after a short time, and it doesn't really sound any better than the stock pipe. If not for that, I would have bought it a long time ago. I'm glad to hear that someone has had good luck with it.
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wildbill

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Reply #17 on: January 07, 2016, 10:43:19 am
stage 1. they are talking about a power commander v with sports exhaust and a k&n air filter