[Possm_23]

Can someone explain how to use a timing wheel for the iron barrel?

[ace.cafe]

Put it on the crankshaft at the alternator end. Make a pointer wire and affix it to the engine. Put the engine on exact TDC, and bend the pointer to point at zero on the degree wheel.

Then use that to do whatever you are needing it for.

[Bullet Whisperer]

I do it this way, with the timing cover bolt at the 12 o clock position representing TDC. There is an M6 bolt through the centre of the timing disc, locked at the back by a nut. There is about 1" of bolt shank sticking out the back, which I screw in to the rubber [or cork] seal in the end of the crank - some might prefer using a slightly fatter 1/4" bolt and turn the threads off where it could perhaps push into the end of the crank, but my set up works ok for me. the advantage for me using this method is it is easier to follow when checking the valve timing.
 B.W.

[dginfw]

BW, great tip.  I never thought of using that side! eliminates the need to remove the primary cover. Does -or can- this damage the rubber seal in any way?

[Bullet Whisperer]

As long as you take care and screw, rather than push the bolt in, no harm should result. I haven't damaged a seal yet, cork or neoprene while using the timing disc in this way, but be prepared to lose a small amount of oil - but that happens with the primary side, in any case 
 B.W.

[Possm_23]

is there a video to show this.....by RE is a 2008

[creaky]

As long as you take care and screw, rather than push the bolt in, no harm should result. I haven't damaged a seal yet, cork or neoprene while using the timing disc in this way, but be prepared to lose a small amount of oil - but that happens with the primary side, in any case 


Can you please explain further. You must be removing the quill bolt and bolting the timing disc into the end of the crankshaft. With that bolt out would you not prevent oil pumping to the big end. Also is the quill bolt thread the same. I had mine out recently and seem to recall a much smaller thread than M8. Also how do you avoid damage to the cork seal.

[creaky]

Think I posted it wrong. Here goes again

Can you please explain further. You must be removing the quill bolt and bolting the timing disc into the end of the crankshaft. With that bolt out would you not prevent oil pumping to the big end. Also is the quill bolt thread the same. I had mine out recently and seem to recall a much smaller thread than M8. Also how do you avoid damage to the cork seal.

[Bullet Whisperer]

Hi Creaky,
 I think you have misunderstood me about how I do this. I have an M6 bolt passing through my timing disc, it is probably around 40mm long and the timing disc is fastened to this bolt using a washer either side of the disc and a nut tightened up against the back of the disc. The remaining portion of the shank of this bolt is what I screw in through the crank end feed seal, this sounds like a terrible thing to do, but as long as it is screwed in, rather than pushed, I have yet to damage any seals in this way. I suppose a larger, say M8 bolt could be used and any excess threads on the shank could be machined off, to leave a smooth length of 'rod' to push harmlessly through the seal. The engine can't be run like this, as you correctly assume, no oil will be pumped to the big end - although it would go just about everywhere else around you!
 I just use this method for static timing of ignition and valves. It is also a very accurate way of finding, say, 38 deg BTDC, if you want to mark a crank position such as this on your alternator rotor, against a suitable fixed mark for strobing later on, after the feed quill bolt has been refitted!
 B.W.

[creaky]

You have explained that perfectly. I thought you were timing it with a timing light. I have done that by marking the alternator roter as best I can with marks for static as well as 38 btdc. But of course you have to take the chaincase cover off which is even harder on my bike as I have a sidecar. Last time I took the cover off, to make it worse the oil had washed off my timing marks. Will paint them next time.

[malky]

Last time I took the cover off, to make it worse the oil had washed off my timing marks. Will paint them next time.

I engraved mine on with one of those cheap Burgess engravers, also engraved the torque setting for the chaincase bolt ( on the inside ) because I kept on forgetting it 

[ace.cafe]

You have explained that perfectly. I thought you were timing it with a timing light. I have done that by marking the alternator roter as best I can with marks for static as well as 38 btdc. But of course you have to take the chaincase cover off which is even harder on my bike as I have a sidecar. Last time I took the cover off, to make it worse the oil had washed off my timing marks. Will paint them next time.

With a sidecar, I would recommend taking some steps to ensure that is a safe ignition setting. When faced with heavy loads, the engine typically requires less advance to avoid pinging(detonation). Being sure that the ignition is not over-advanced for the load conditions can save your piston!