Okay, I had better jump back in here! I had some setbacks. Nothing to be "afraid" of, and maybe we can all learn from some of my well intentioned errors.
First off I don't mind being a test case for those of us who don't do this for a living. I have some background in mechanics; shade tree, military aviation and bicycle shop. All three and none apply to the Enfield exactly :O)
Use of "Never Seize" on the threads WILL change the torque value!! (Ask me how I know this
) It also may act as an insulator and not transfer heat well.
I have had conflicting information from sources other than on this list that I am disseminating for clarity and applicability. (Diplomacy 101)
I am not trying to make this task more daunting or unapproachable. I am awaiting some new parts (my bad) and I will try to have her up and running shortly after they arrive. Believe me, I could now about do this in my sleep. I have gained a ton of confidence. I am not stressing on any timeline (I have other vehilcles to rely on, if need be) and am enjoying the learning experience immensely. Afterall, it is just a piece of machinery, one that is adored, mind you, but still...
1. Torque values don't mean squat. Pete Snidal (and my
old wrenching past) tell one to learn and trust in "feel". I did not do that and cooked by the book, seasoned by some inaccurate salty advice. Result: snapped hardened head bolt. Gall torque values (dry threads) can be inconsistent in practice due condition/quality of parts (*). Lubricants change the playing field.
2. *I always thought that the 285 in/lb torque setting seemed severe even on dry threads, and I think I stretched my last (stock/original studs) when I installed the solid copper head gasket last year.
3.Use of Hi-Temp blue loctite on the stud lower threads has both been suggested and dissuaded?
4. The Enfield is dirt simple and third world serviceable. It shouldn't need too many fancy things to get it to work.
5. I am going at things a little slower this time. Why rush. I can make a mistake, like over-torqueing, then regroup to do it right. I'm glad I am not afraid to learn. Perhaps my mistakes will save some of you from same.
6. Old Harley mechanics are not Enfield mechanics. Bless their hearts. The Harley is a tank or tractor, the Enfield is lawnmower. "To torque Harley head bolts you tighten 'til the veins in your neck pop..then you get the hammer." Not so on the Enfield.
7. If you flat-bottom bore the head stud recesses (tunnels) to clean up the swarf and old washer seats in the head.. remember that the seat is now deeper in the head. You will have to use
two hardened washers under each stud head nut, otherwise the flats of the nuts start to descend into the recess and dig into the head, thus changing torque (toss the first head gasket!).
8. Block orifices and clean up as much carbon as possible while you are in there (might's well...). Carb cleaner and acetone work well, but watch where they go. If you think any has run into the crankcase, then change the oil.
8. Use basic mechanical techniques. And improvise when needed... a .22 cal. pistol cleaning rod and swatches soaked in carb cleaner can clean out holes well, just watch out for loose threads on the swatches. And don't use a .38 cal patch (ask me how I know this :O)
Here's what my plan of action is:
New hardened studs. New stock gasket. New stud nuts. Reuse the two sets of hardened washers I have.
The clearance between my head and the top of the cylinder is less than .334mm although this varies slightly. I have worked most high/low spots out of the head with emery paper on a sheet of glass. The surfaces have not been machined, so are not perfectly mated, but better than when they left the factory. It doesn't matter, the stock 1mm gasket with sealant should have enough give to fill the void. A solid copper gasket really needs machined, flat surfaces to work well. Maybe on my next Enfield.
I am now going to use some aircraft gasket sealant. It's really old timey stuff "Tite Seal". It's vitrified clay in an oil base. I tried the Permatex sealant on the first tries at assembly and it may work just as well. "Cochi", I think has had success so far.
I am also going to try an old machinist approach and use oil on the stud threads and a reduced torque value to compensate (less on numbers, more on
feel). Someone on one of the forums has used 22 ft/lbs with success, mine will be less due the lubricant. I will report soon on the process. As I said, I've done this a few times now and it all should go quite quickly once the parts arrive.
-Jesse, chomping at the bit now :O) Here are some photos..
Topic: About to try to stem the head gasket oil leak... (Read 9807 times)