[singhg5]

That's strange. I was getting the error 'Video not available' on my Youtube app.

Use a computer to see the video. 

Many videos are NOT available on all platforms, so they don't show up on phones or similar devices.

[gremlin]

......@all Could an electrical problem somewhere be responsible for the dreadful fuel economy?

in a word .   yes.

I'm liking GHG's suggestion to check the ground connection(S) for the computer.  but, I'd also add that the CPU buss may be going cold during cranking, (due to the MIL indication)
 
does the MIL flicker during crank, or, on solid?   
does the engine catch during crank, or, as you release the start button?

[Rahul Bhosle]

in a word .   yes.

I'm liking GHG's suggestion to check the ground connection(S) for the computer.  but, I'd also add that the CPU buss may be going cold during cranking, (due to the MIL indication)
 
does the MIL flicker during crank, or, on solid?   
does the engine catch during crank, or, as you release the start button?

Will check the wiring harness this weekend.

The MIL stays on and doesn't flicker. But this thing isn't consistent. It happens intermittently. What do you mean by catch? Sorry I don't know that term.

[gremlin]

........ What do you mean by catch? Sorry I don't know that term.

fire

[gashousegorilla]

 Damn ?     You would think there would be a code stored if that Mil light is coming on during cranking ?  When you turn the key on, then hit the kill switch ... do you notice a shorter injector cycle or "priming of the fuel pump" period ?   An active code or problem with a circuit or sensor will do that.  You'll notice a much shorter duration.   And .... How exactly are they or did they clear the old codes ?  Did that dealer have the diagnostic tool to do so ?  I ask, because no one has it here that I know of. And the codes here anyway, can not be cleared.  Also, have you been checking for codes yourself with the ground wire at the ECU ?

[Rahul Bhosle]

fire

Ummm. I believe it's during the crank. The bike starts at first crank during a cold start in the morning.

Damn ?     You would think there would be a code stored if that Mil light is coming on during cranking ?  When you turn the key on, then hit the kill switch ... do you notice a shorter injector cycle or "priming of the fuel pump" period ?   An active code or problem with a circuit or sensor will do that.  You'll notice a much shorter duration.   And .... How exactly are they or did they clear the old codes ?  Did that dealer have the diagnostic tool to do so ?  I ask, because no one has it here that I know of. And the codes here anyway, can not be cleared.  Also, have you been checking for codes yourself with the ground wire at the ECU ?

Well, I'm not sure what an injector cycle is but I think I hear the priming of the fuel pump (It does what it has been doing since I bought her). The duration of the initial ECU check is also the same as before. No change in that. It wasn't the dealer that cleared the ECU fault codes. I had scheduled an appointment with the Territory Service Manager at the Authorised Service Centre. He had a laptop with the Keihin diagnostic software and the Usb+adapter kit to connect to the ECU. That's how he cleared the fault codes. My ECU re-mapping was done in the similar manner.
Yes, I had checked the codes myself with the ground wire. I had the TPS and Crankshaft circuit malfunctioning fault codes then. After I got them cleared, no more fault codes.

[gashousegorilla]

Ummm. I believe it's during the crank. The bike starts at first crank during a cold start in the morning.


Well, I'm not sure what an injector cycle is but I think I hear the priming of the fuel pump (It does what it has been doing since I bought her). The duration of the initial ECU check is also the same as before. No change in that. It wasn't the dealer that cleared the ECU fault codes. I had scheduled an appointment with the Territory Service Manager at the Authorised Service Centre. He had a laptop with the Keihin diagnostic software and the Usb+adapter kit to connect to the ECU. That's how he cleared the fault codes. My ECU re-mapping was done in the similar manner.
Yes, I had checked the codes myself with the ground wire. I had the TPS and Crankshaft circuit malfunctioning fault codes then. After I got them cleared, no more fault codes.

   Ok, got ya and thanks.... very interesting. That's a great thing to have, with the ability to get those codes cleared.  Otherwise they will stack up in there over time, and get a weeee bit confusing to decipher.   That is, should one make the mistake of having the sensors disconnected and turning the Key and kill switch on.     Ask me how I know this..... 

[Rahul Bhosle]

   Ok, got ya and thanks.... very interesting. That's a great thing to have, with the ability to get those codes cleared.  Otherwise they will stack up in there over time, and get a weeee bit confusing to decipher.   That is, should one make the mistake of having the sensors disconnected and turning the Key and kill switch on.     Ask me how I know this..... 

Hahaha.

Update: I checked the TPS tonight. The voltage at idle is 0.58-0.59v and at WOT is 3.82v. I guess that's normal right? What should be my next step?

[SteveThackery]

You had a TPS code earlier,  and according to KEIHIN !... the manufacturer of our EFI system,  the tps voltage WILL effect fuel across the range.

Just for the record, this is only true for Bullets without the O2 sensor (like the OP's). 

On bikes with the O2 sensor, the steady-state running mixture in unaffected by the TPS voltage.  The only time the TPS is used to control the mixture is for transient events like opening and closing the throttle, when the O2 sensor can't respond quickly enough.

[SteveThackery]

Update: I checked the TPS tonight. The voltage at idle is 0.58-0.59v and at WOT is 3.82v. I guess that's normal right?

Yes, completely normal.

[gashousegorilla]

Hahaha.

Update: I checked the TPS tonight. The voltage at idle is 0.58-0.59v and at WOT is 3.82v. I guess that's normal right? What should be my next step?

    Yeah it is.   What should the next step be you ask ?  Well, how about going back over with us what you have checked to date AND what issues still persist.

  You have no codes, and your bike still has a fuel economy issue, AND it intermittently stalls when you hit a bump or a pot hole ?   Yet you get a Mil light periodically/sometimes when it cranks Correct ?  Ummmmmmmmmmmm......   Sounds like an intermittent bad connection in the harness somewhere ?.... MAYBE vibration or shock induced ? You could back probe from the sensor connections, each individually to the ECU and check the circuits?  However, that may show a good circuit if it's an intermittent problem ?   You could also look for voltage drops at the sensors.... again though, if the problem is intermittent ?   You could do a wiggle the wire test when the bike is running , and see if it stalls  or you get that Mil light.  That is how I found my Roll over sensor issue......

 

[gremlin]

........  You could do a wiggle the wire test when the bike is running , and see if it stalls  or you get that Mil light.  That is how I found my Roll over sensor issue......

+1

[Rahul Bhosle]

    Yeah it is.   What should the next step be you ask ?  Well, how about going back over with us what you have checked to date AND what issues still persist.

  You have no codes, and your bike still has a fuel economy issue, AND it intermittently stalls when you hit a bump or a pot hole ?   Yet you get a Mil light periodically/sometimes when it cranks Correct ?  Ummmmmmmmmmmm......   Sounds like an intermittent bad connection in the harness somewhere ?.... MAYBE vibration or shock induced ? You could back probe from the sensor connections, each individually to the ECU and check the circuits?  However, that may show a good circuit if it's an intermittent problem ?   You could also look for voltage drops at the sensors.... again though, if the problem is intermittent ?   You could do a wiggle the wire test when the bike is running , and see if it stalls  or you get that Mil light.  That is how I found my Roll over sensor issue......

 

The bike has no codes and it still has the fuel economy issue. But the intermittent stalling, which used to happen when I turned the handle to the right, is fixed with the ignition switch replacement.
Today in the morning the MIL light popped up while cranking. Its actually the initial ECU check (and fuel pump priming) that happens all over again. This didn't happen yesterday though. So, it's kind of intermittent. To re-iterate, there are not fault codes on the MIL.

With regards to what all has been done till date, lets see:
1) I got the front & rear chain sprocket + chain replaced.
2) The rear tyre has been replaced too in the past month.
3) The air filter has been cleaned.
4) Clutch plates have been replaced around 2-3k kms back.
5) There is no drag on the front or the rear wheel.
6) The intermittent engine stalling has been fixed with the ignition switch replacement.
7) Checked the cylinder head for carbon buildup. There wasn't much. Cleaned it. Also, the piston rings looked in good shape. No abnormal scoring on the cylinder too.
8 ) I'm not so sure about the valves though, as I didn't have the tools to get the valves off. Could this be a contributor to the issue?

Could the issue be narrowed down to the wiring harness, injector or the  valves?

I'm planning to strip the bike to check the wiring harness tomorrow.

[gashousegorilla]

The bike has no codes and it still has the fuel economy issue. But the intermittent stalling, which used to happen when I turned the handle to the right, is fixed with the ignition switch replacement.
Today in the morning the MIL light popped up while cranking. Its actually the initial ECU check (and fuel pump priming) that happens all over again. This didn't happen yesterday though. So, it's kind of intermittent. To re-iterate, there are not fault codes on the MIL.

With regards to what all has been done till date, lets see:
1) I got the front & rear chain sprocket + chain replaced.
2) The rear tyre has been replaced too in the past month.
3) The air filter has been cleaned.
4) Clutch plates have been replaced around 2-3k kms back.
5) There is no drag on the front or the rear wheel.
6) The intermittent engine stalling has been fixed with the ignition switch replacement.
7) Checked the cylinder head for carbon buildup. There wasn't much. Cleaned it. Also, the piston rings looked in good shape. No abnormal scoring on the cylinder too.
I'm not so sure about the valves though, as I didn't have the tools to get the valves off. Could this be a contributor to the issue?

Could the issue be narrowed down to the wiring harness, injector or the  valves?

I'm planning to strip the bike to check the wiring harness tomorrow.

  I think it is electrical.   So if I understand you right... sometimes the bike behaves normal in that you turn the key on and hit the kill switch. The Mil light comes on , the pump primes , the mil light goes out and the bike starts normally without reassurance of the Mil light.  Normal.  BUT sometimes when you hit the start button , the Mil light starts to pop on... not normal.   It's like the act of staring it ,is causing intermittent loss of connection.... Like you hit the kill switch again .  Follow ?    Ummmmmmmm.... Kill switch maybe ?    Neutral switch spring perhaps, from the bike vibrating on the stand as the starter is turning the motor over ?  SOMEWHERE I think,  You have a bad connection.....

 And BTW, the time to check and see if your valves were leaking, were when you had the head off.  By filling the combustion chamber with fluid , and checking for leaks in the intake and exhaust ports.  I wouldn't doubt that you had one, with all that carbon in there... and some carbon in between the seats and the valves.   That would have been a good time clean them all up and lap them back in as necessary.

[Rahul Bhosle]

  I think it is electrical.   So if I understand you right... sometimes the bike behaves normal in that you turn the key on and hit the kill switch. The Mil light comes on , the pump primes , the mil light goes out and the bike starts normally without reassurance of the Mil light.  Normal.  BUT sometimes when you hit the start button , the Mil light starts to pop on... not normal.   It's like the act of staring it ,is causing intermittent loss of connection.... Like you hit the kill switch again .  Follow ?    Ummmmmmmm.... Kill switch maybe ?    Neutral switch spring perhaps, from the bike vibrating on the stand as the starter is turning the motor over ?  SOMEWHERE I think,  You have a bad connection.....

 And BTW, the time to check and see if your valves were leaking, were when you had the head off.  By filling the combustion chamber with fluid , and checking for leaks in the intake and exhaust ports.  I wouldn't doubt that you had one, with all that carbon in there... and some carbon in between the seats and the valves.   That would have been a good time clean them all up and lap them back in as necessary.

You got that right. Sometimes the MIL pops up during cranking as if I have hit the kill switch off and on again.
Yes, I guess it's a case of a bad connection. The neutral light is also affected these days when I turn the handle in any direction (mostly to the left). It comes back on when I usually turn the handle to the right, I think.
Are you trying to say that the neutral switch is causing the MIL weirdness?