[Arizoni]

Inside the transmission there is a part that moves to shift the gears.  It has a small notch cut into it and when the transmission is in neutral that notch is supposed to allow the neutral switch to turn on.

The problem is, when the transmission is in neutral, the notch might not quite be lined up with the switch.

Just moveing the shift lever slightly up or down with your foot can move the notch to the right  place to turn on the neutral switch.
The only way to know that this has happened is to watch the green neutral light.
When it comes on, the electric starter will work.  If the light is still off, the electric starter won't work (unless you pull the clutch lever in).

Pulling in the clutch lever always allows the electric starter to work.   

[Guaire]

It's been starting. I tried adjusting the cables to get the idle down. I'm idling at 1500.

[Farmer_John]

There's a set screw on the throttle butterfly "wheel". Don't mess with it.

How to lower idle.

Remove saddle
Unbolt tank and lift and prop it up with something.
There's a big assed brass screw head in a recess. That's the air bypass. That's where you adjust your idle.
Turn screw head clockwise. It won't take much.
Enjoy lower idle

I had to modify an old shorty driver to fit in the confines if the throttle body. There isn't a whole lot of room.

[Guaire]

Thanks, FJ. Is that the brass screw at the upper right in the photo?
  Got my oil changed too.
I like the brakes. Two discs work fine. If any reviewer doesn't love 'em, what's their problem?!
  I'll check my downloaded manual. It ain't easy with out an index though.

[Farmer_John]

That is the one. For some reason I've had to adjust mine 3 times as it has broken in. Had me scratchin so bad once, I was checking for an air leak.

[Guaire]

Got after the oil change. Not too bad. Fairly clean oil, not stinky. Some mushy stuff on the magnet.
  19mm wrench, and 5mm Allen

[Arizoni]

As you found, there is absolutely no reason to disassemble the filter cap when your changing oil.

The packings in it will not need to be replaced if you leave it assembled and it will last for many years that way.

[phoenixt]

Yeh, I am stocking up on surplus 0 rings. Somebodies brother must own an 0 ring factory.  I only change the others every other oil change. I use a plastic zip tie tip to remove them. Don't want to score the surface on the caps. That will cause a leak.

Steve

[Arizoni]

I finally changed the O-rings on the oil filter screen cover, both ends of the filter cartridge and the one on the oil filter cap during the oil and filter change I did a week ago.

The old O-rings were over 4 1/2 years old and had been reused for 14 oil changes.

The old O-rings would have continued to work but they were showing signs of flattening and I have a basket full of replacement packing's to do the job.

I might add, in the pile of O-rings I received with the filter kits I got a lot of them that are the wrong size for any place involved in changing the filter and oil on the engine.
I also couldn't find a suitable O-ring replacement for the oil pump screen cover in that pile.
Fortunetly, I had a box of new O-rings in various sizes that I got at Harbor Freight.  They are metric sizes and made out of Nitrile rubber.

(Never use the red silicone rubber O-rings in an oil environment.)

[Guaire]

That's good advice to not change that o ring. Mine was deformed and sticking out between the plate and the screw. That's why the o ring is deformed in the photo. Thought it could eventually break up. After buying the 5 pack, I've got a lot of o rings to throw around.