[scooberton]

I have two extra qt.s of castrol syntech hanging  around and I'd like to know if anyone see's a problem with using this for clutch lube instead of  the 20-40 SAE that the manual calls for? Im suspecting that it would'nt be any problem but Im hoping to get a more"RE" experienced  opinion.Any thoughts?Thanks

[Jerry]

See Kevin's post on the thread" 661 miles and broken down".  Response #56 on May 15.  As this is from the guy who decides all warrantee claims I think it is safe advice.

Jerry

[PhilJ]

Some people use it but I can't for life of me figure out why.
All your doing oiling an enclosed chain and clutch plates that are really not much different than the clutches in an automatic transmission in your car.
I've used ATF in my RE for 4500 miles, no problems. I even use it to lube my drive chain as it doesn't attract grit or hold it. I've used it on chains for a long time and get better milage than what I've known others to get. (The last sentence was referring to a BMW F650 GS)
ATF is cheap.

[petefletcher]

As Phil says, ATF is the stuff. I can't understand why RE don't specify it.
I use it in the front forks too. It softens the action a bit.

[clamp]

Ive never known a subject like oil choice to bring out the ideas and observations.

      Some times  I think you guys are joking.

       I put vaseline aroung my tail pipe,--im sure the bike goes up hills better.

     As for the front forks I use low cholesterol cooking oil, it makes the bike feel crisp.

      Im sure about one thing oils aint oils and I am also very sure that Re take it very seriously.

      Do you know what the viscosity rating of ATF is?

       

[PhilJ]

About 10 .

[petefletcher]

The thing is, Clamp, ATF is made to perform well with friction clutches. The other jobs it has to do in the primary case (chain, sliding tabs on the clutch plates etc) could be done by just about any lubricant.
20/50 will work OK - ATF will work better.

Only my opinion.

[clamp]

Yup your about right.  I had it in my head it was thicker than that but I googled it and it is  32 AT 40C and does not normally carry an SAE index,--bit is said to be a 10W30.

      I remember I was going to use it as a hydraulic fluid, but at 32 it was too thick.

     Personally I try to keep oils the same or I end up with galls of different oils.

      Thats the only reason I don't use ATF---in the past.

[scooberton]

Thanks for the input dudes.I think ATF has it hands down for my prized possesion.Especially in reference to clutch lubrication ATFmakes sense,cangrejopup

[GreenMachine]

type f transmission fluid cheap too...probably 2 bucks worth would do the trick..

[clamp]

Type F is a good choice, but im not sure if that relates to oils in the rest of the world.

     Type F is the old oil for the 3 speeds and the one I would choose if I was choosing.

     ATF is of course exellent for clutch plates,--Im not sure if the clutch material is the same or similar but the oil is made with friction in mind but we are only talking 24HP so not a problem.

      Some motorcycles get a slipping clutch if friction is compromised by wrong oils.

     The Re has only a bit in the bottom and is barely splash fed, where as the  automatic tranmission is pressure fed and is cooled by the stuff.

     It is really the clutch hub bearing and the chain that is needing the attention of the oil.

     Mind you if it goes brown in colour it has exeeded its 220 degrees ,( just googled that bit)

[No. 5]

I've tried Castrol 20w-50 motorcycle oil, Valvoline 20w-50 wet clutch motor oil, ATF, and Type F. I settled on Mobile 1 universal ATF. A lot less drag than with 20w-50. Shifting is very smooth, fewer false neutrals going up, and less Ker-Klunk shifting down. I can even get neutral up from first at a stop. The reason for the recommendation of 20w-50 is the sprag clutch of the starter. It only gets what's splashed up there, that's the reason for over filling it. I use 500ml ATF and the kick start. I save the ES for stalls, gett'n gas, and other short stops. I loosen the level plug until a little weeps out to check the color.

[StL_Stadtroller]

I like my life simple.

That being said, I just use the same 20-50 oil in my RE engine and primary, as I use in my 3 VW Type 2's and Genuine (PGO) scooter.
And for the gearbox, I use the same 80-90 GL4 that gets used in the VW transaxles and the final drive of the scooter.

Never had any troubles shifting, finding neutral, dragging, slipping, etc.

10 different kinds of oil belong on the shelf at the store... not in my garage!   

[t120rbullet]

I was under the impression that you shouldn't use ATF in the electric start bikes.
Bad for the sprag bearing.
With that said I have type F ATF in both my kick-only Bullets.

[PhilJ]

I was under the impression that you shouldn't use ATF in the electric start bikes.
Bad for the sprag bearing.
With that said I have type F ATF in both my kick-only Bullets.

It's oil. I don't see why that should hurt the sprag gears. Oil is good for gears and it's not like putting it into a crankcase, be a little thin for that, but the clutch likes it just fine and so does my sprag gears. What have you heard about it t120r?