Author Topic: first oil & filter change  (Read 2565 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

birdmove

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 743
  • Karma: 0
on: August 17, 2008, 04:07:40 am
  Did my first oil and filter change today after work. Went on a 30 mile ride first and came home right at 1001 miles. Pulled both the plugs with the screens on them, and tehy were pretty clean. Then drained the main oil tank. Carefully pulled the oil filter cover, and, having been warned here about the possibility of parts flying out due to the spring pressure, had no problem with that.Just used a little flat blade screw driver to fish out some of the parts (washers and such). Used the little bag the filter comes in to pour some oil over said filter for the pre-soak (another tip I got here).Put everything back together okay and added oil.Its tough for my 54 year eyes to see the oil level on the dipstick with totally fresh oil, but got it done.
    Due to some controversy here at this forum about draining, or not draining the timing case, I did not drain it. I don't really like leaving old oil in there,but also don't want to fight a leak, and deal with priming the system by kicking the heck out of it, or putting it in 5th and turning the rear wheel etc either.
    I didn't change the trans oil or primary oil tonight, as I worked 8 1/2 hours etc.
    The oil was somewhat dirty, even though it always looked very clean on that shiny dipstick when I checked it.The oil filter looked dirty, but I didn't find any alarming crud on it or anything.
    So I'm in the later part of the break in now, and should be able to run it up a bit higher as we continue.

    Jon in Puyallup
Jon in Keaau, Hawaii


ace.cafe

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 14,457
  • Karma: 1
  • World leaders in performance/racing Bullets
Reply #1 on: August 17, 2008, 04:15:56 am
I don't drain the timing case.
It all mixes around with the new oil, and as long as you have relatively frequent changes, it all comes out in the wash anyway eventually.
Home of the Fireball 535 !


birdmove

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 743
  • Karma: 0
Reply #2 on: August 17, 2008, 04:36:12 am
  I tend to agree. And by removing the "quill shaft" bolt, you are messing with the oil supply directly to the main bearings - a component that is not known to be the rock of Gibralter anyway. Maybe it would be a good idea to pull the timing case cover and clean it inside at some interval?? I don't know.

    jon
Jon in Keaau, Hawaii


mrunderhill1975a

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,169
  • Karma: 0
Reply #3 on: August 17, 2008, 05:02:16 am
I empty the timing chest, per the Snidal manual, however, you have a point, the bike Pete rode had a cork around the quill bolt that was prone to deteriorate.  The neopreme "cork" should be more reliable.  In addition to this, after 13000 miles my bike changes it's own oil every 1500 miles (I'm not sure where it puts it).