[Roisto]

Hello everyone,

I've got a 2013 Bullet B5 EFI with about 12500km (~7800 miles) on it. My rear brake is being very annoying and dangerous. I think there might be something loose inside the drum. Sometimes it just completely locks while pressing the pedal ever so slightly, sometimes the pedal is very loose, sometimes very stiff.

Then there's a problem with the front disc brake also. It's wobbling and making a high pitched screeching sound while I brake. From what I can see, the pads look ok, but I can't be sure without taking it all apart.

I don't want to take the bike to a shop, because they don't seem to know anything around here and no one has parts for Enfields anyway. So I have to order everything online and it'd be best to do all the work myself. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong and what parts/tools I might need to fix the problems?

I was thinking of getting new pads for the front. None of the shops around here seem to know what kind I need. Would these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROYAL-ENFIELD-FRONT-DISC-BRAKE-PAD-SET-560533-36-/271901382564?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4e95d7a4 work? I'm not sure if those are the right kind, but I think they are. Or is it better to order some well known brand name pads instead?

The rear I don't know what I'd do about. I guess opening it up and taking a look might be the best option, but I wouldn't want to open it up, have to wait for parts for ages and then put it back together only after I've received the parts, especially now as it's the best summer weather for biking. I wouldn't think the brake shoes are worn out already, but I don't have any experiences with motorbike brakes wearing out, so I dunno.

Also, do I need to change the brake fluids if I open the brakes up and do I need some other chemicals or tools? I just want to be as fully prepared as possible when I get to it. 

[The Old Coot]

I'm not sure in the brand of pad but look at the NFG site they should have the right ones for your bike.

If you don't break open the brakes lines on the front wheel the brake fluid should be OK, I do replace the fluid in mt bikes yearly as it will absorb moisture for the air and that will degrade braking and can corrode the components.

On the rear brake, I have no idea what's going on but when you open it up takes photos to post here, it'll make thinks easier for the real wrenches here.   

[Mr.Mazza]

Brake wobble is down to a warped disk, replace it.

[SteveThackery]

I wouldn't want to open it up, have to wait for parts for ages and then put it back together only after I've received the parts........

It isn't realistic to expect anyone to diagnose a fault like this via the internet.  At best we can guess and make informed suggestions.  The proper approach is to take it to bits yourself and see what's going on.

Now, the Enfield is an exceptionally easy bike to work on.  It is the work of minutes to get that back brake out and in bits, and similarly to put it together again.  So normally I would suggest: dismantle, diagnose, put it back together, and then repeat when the bits arrive.

BUT: are you really sure it's wise to ride it when the back wheel is at risk of locking up?  I don't think so. 

I'm now going to break one of my personal rules.  I don't normally order parts until I know I need them.  This time I'm going to make an exception: you know for sure you will need some new rear brake shoes and springs one day, so order them now in case that is the problem, and if it's something else then at least you've got them for when the originals really do wear out.

You won't have to wait ages for them to arrive.  Our hosts, and Hitchcocks in the UK, send stuff out very quickly.

Meanwhile, I repeat: I don't think you should consider riding it until you've fixed that brake. 

[bluesdaddy2]

I wouldn't want to open it up, have to wait for parts for ages and then put it back together only after I've received the parts, especially now as it's the best summer weather for biking. I wouldn't think the brake shoes are worn out already, but I don't have any experiences with motorbike brakes wearing out, so I dunno.

A lot of unknowns to deal with.  You can't be sure exactly which parts, (if any), you need until your problem is properly diagnosed.  If it turns out you need some parts, you get what you need and proceed.  Most of us can't afford the luxury of buying and holding stock of every part we "my" need someday.  The other, more serious unknown to deal with is you can't be sure what "might" happen if you continue to ride with what sounds like some pretty serious issues. You "my" be seriously injured and have to wait for parts to heal for ages or worse.  The best weather for biking in your case is whether you should be riding an unsafe bike or not.  I think the whether you should choose should be clear.  Ride safe. 

[suitcasejefferson]

I had the exact problems with my '13 B5. On the front, I sanded down the friction surface of the pads, and cleaned the rotor with brake parts cleaner. They probably use some kind of preservative on the bikes, and some of it got on the brakes. When I bought new rotors for my car, it took me about 15 minutes to clean the brown waxy stuff (cosmoline?) off each rotor. I put some anti squeak on the back of the pads. The front brake works ok now.

I did the same to the rear brake, cleaned the drum and friction surface of the pads with brake parts cleaner, but the big issue with the rear was caused by the pads not being centered. Fixing that helped a lot. BUT. You will never get anywhere near the braking performance of a modern Japanese bike. You need to learn to ride it like a 1950s/'60s British bike.

If the bike is still under warranty, I would take it to the dealer. My closest dealer is 120 miles away, I am an auto mechanic, brakes are brakes, so I decided to do it myself.

DO NOT ride it if you feel it is unsafe. Most of the time you can get away without using the rear brake. I did until I got it fixed. 90% of the stopping power is in the front brake anyway.

[tenacres650]

this may help
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,19498.msg214499.html#msg214499
also there is a way of centring the rear pads but I can't find the link someone else may have it?

[gremlin]

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,19334.msg213260.html#msg213260

[Roisto]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I guess I'll ride it to my friend's garage and open it all up to see what's happening with it. It's going to be rainy, so I can't do all this outside.

I guess my initial post was a bit unclear. I was mainly interested in knowing if this would have been a common problem with a likely cause (and possibly an easy fix). I'm still a newbie when it comes to bikes and working on them, so all suggestions are welcome as I can only learn more. 

And I did not plan on riding the bike much at all until these problems are sorted out. Just if I absolutely need to go somewhere and avoid using the rear brake.

The bike is not under warranty anymore and the closest dealer is in another country completely.

[Arizoni]

We had at least one member who found the brake shoe return springs that pulls the shoes inward, away from the drum fail.

The springs broke into several pieces which is almost unheard of with a coil spring.

That could be the reason your rear brake doesn't seem to release when you take your foot off of the brake pedal.

Let us know what you find.

[heloego]

   Keep in mind that your talking about a rather critical facet of your bike...BRAKES.
   When there is an issue with any critical system in any vehicle the wisest decision is to not ride until you a) determine the fault, and b) if parts are required, order only high quality critical parts from a vendor you trust, such as our host or Hitchcock's, c) repair/replace as necessary, THEN ride.
   Any other option risks further damage (and unwanted expense) to the bike, or serious damage to you.
   Which would you prefer? Supporting your bike, or your local hospital? 

[adi-4004]

The first thing I do when faced with a problem; check if there is a video of it online. Singhg5 has a bunch of them. They are great for beginners.

[Sectorsteve]

I've had similar problems with my brakes. Cant say much about the front except listen to the guys here. i think the "get a new disc" advice is a good one.
these brake parts are cheap as.
get online and buy the brake parts.
my rear brake for ages locked up and didn't work right.
the slot in the rear swing arm has a slit that the brake plate bolts too. this slit can widen over time and that bolt/nut can loosen causing play and movement in the rear hub. This means that sometimes when you brake the brake can lock up.
its a dumb design and that swing arm slot should be snug outta the factory, but they don't make them like that, god know why.
my brakes are good now. the front ones for me were fixed by buying a whole new calliper. tried to replace seals etc, to no avail. my rear brakes were fixed by keeping an eye on that rear brake nut. keeping it tight and welding a strip of metal on the slot closing the gap so that the brake assembly can't rotate.

[Roisto]

Alright guys,

I opened up the rear drum. Everything looks good apart from the bolt on the side, which seems to be bent. I think it's actually the cover plate that is bent. This did cause the shoes to be bit uneven, the other one being slightly raised off from the plate and the other one not at all.

My friend suggested that this could cause the shoes to wedge somehow when braking. Dunno though. Anyone got any ideas? I don't think the bolt should be bent like that at least?

I attached some photos, so you can see better what's going on.

The front brake I haven't done anything about yet. Maybe I'll see what can be done about that next.

[gremlin]

Yes, it has happened before.  Yours is not as bad as mine was check out this link for photos.

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,19334.msg213260.html#msg213260

And, YES, it can cause the rear brake to lockup when the backing plate rotates clockwise during braking (it adds to the apparent pedal pressure).

repair your backing plate (or replace it) then when you re-assemble make sure you add a sleeve (or narrow up the slot) on that bolt.

the bolt loosens and then hammers against the swingarm each time you use the brakes - that's what bends the backing plate.