Author Topic: HELP OK ITS NOT THE PISTON ....1998 BULLET 500 (Read 7881 times)

13deno · **on:** July 11, 2015, 11:46:23 pm

So as I said in my other post I thought my piston was done so I took it all apart it looked like it was but cylinder is smooth and piston is in good shape...so I tried to use the kick starter piston doesn't move ..anyone have any idea what it could be?

deno

cafeman · **Reply #1 on:** July 11, 2015, 11:54:38 pm

Time for a complete and thorough teardown!

Actually you might want to isolate things: engine, primary, gearbox. Gotta pull the primary cover and go from there.

Arizoni · **Reply #2 on:** July 11, 2015, 11:57:52 pm

Have you pulled the side covers off of the engine yet?

It isn't unknown for the rotor in the alternator to blow up and jam against the inside of the stator.

Less likely, the worm drive for the oil pump could bind up (but usually it just tears itself and the oil pump drive shaft apart).

Is the connecting rod easy to move, front to aft and side to side?

It will seem quite loose in the side to side direction because of the floating bearing in the big end but it won't rattle when it is moved if all is well.

13deno · **Reply #3 on:** July 12, 2015, 12:14:51 am

Quote from: cafeman on July 11, 2015, 11:54:38 pm

Time for a complete and thorough teardown! Actually you might want to isolate things: engine, primary, gearbox. Gotta pull the primary cover and go from there.

I pulled the primary off looks fine could it be behind that.

13deno · **Reply #4 on:** July 12, 2015, 12:34:13 am

will a 2011 Royal Enfield B5 UCE 500cc engine fit on a 1998 enfield 500 bullet ?

Arizoni · **Reply #5 on:** July 12, 2015, 02:15:44 am

The engine would probably fit but the rear drive chain is on the right hand side of the motorcycle rather than being on the left like the old iron barrel and AVL powered motorcycles are.

The UCE's in the USA are also fuel injected and this requires a ECU to control it. It also requires a high pressure fuel pump and there is no place to mount it in a iron barrels fuel tank.

I suggest you keep on digging to find out what the real problem is.

These iron barrel engines are rather simple and once the problem has been found there are a bunch of guys here that can help you work your way thru the trouble.

ace.cafe · **Reply #6 on:** July 12, 2015, 12:53:04 pm

You have to start looking deeper.
Release the clutch, and see if the piston can be pushed down and pulled up by hand pressure.
If the engine is frozen up with the head and barrel off, then it is locked up mechanically. If the primary side looks good, then take off the timing cover, and see if the cam gears are locked up, or the lifter has failed and locked things up. If that all looks good, then it is in the crank/bearing area, and the engine has to come out and cases split to see.

13deno · **Reply #7 on:** July 12, 2015, 10:48:52 pm

well Im done its going to a shop .. I have very little patience. I am very close to taking it out back and shooting it..

thanks for all your help.

AgentX · **Reply #8 on:** July 12, 2015, 11:20:14 pm

I would only go this route if you have a shop that's specifically oriented towards classic british bikes. Otherwise you probably know more than the mechanic simply by having read this thread.

cafeman · **Reply #9 on:** July 12, 2015, 11:20:51 pm

Thats probably the best course of action. But just for the sake of everyone else's curiosity, you removed the primary chain thus seperating the engine and gearbox and kicked it thru?? You maybe removed the spark plug and with wrench or socket rotated the engine via the big nut on the end of the rotor??? Very quick and easy to do.........only takes a beer or two...three+?? and counting to ten for me in these times

dginfw · **Reply #10 on:** July 12, 2015, 11:23:52 pm

13deno, where are you located?

Arizoni · **Reply #11 on:** July 12, 2015, 11:43:44 pm

Quote from: AgentX on July 12, 2015, 11:20:14 pm

I would only go this route if you have a shop that's specifically oriented towards classic british bikes...

I agree.

Few motorcycle shops any more have real mechanics working in them.
Most have technicians that replace black boxes and controllers, engine oil and filters and tires.

The few that do actually have mechanics will undoubtedly charge $75/hour or more for their knowledge.

As 13deno has already removed the upper end of the engine it tells me he is totally capable of finding the problem.

Once the real source of the problem is found, it shouldn't be too hard (or expensive) to fix.

Once it is fixed, he will find real satisfaction in knowing that "he" is the one that fixed it.
All it takes at this stage of the game is "don't give up".

High On Octane · **Reply #12 on:** July 13, 2015, 12:43:59 am

+1 to what Arizoni just said.

You already got top end off. Take the timing cover like mentioned and see if the gears are jammed. If so, you found your problem. If not, the crank is seized and it's only a few hundred more in parts for a complete overhaul. These motors are very easy to work on and with the help of the members here we can walk you thru step by step.

High On Octane · **Reply #13 on:** July 13, 2015, 12:45:39 am

Also, if you haven't already, I highly recommend getting the Pete Snydal manual. It has every repair thoroughly documented.

13deno · **Reply #14 on:** July 14, 2015, 09:16:45 pm

Quote from: cafeman on July 12, 2015, 11:20:51 pm

Thats probably the best course of action. But just for the sake of everyone else's curiosity, you removed the primary chain thus seperating the engine and gearbox and kicked it thru?? You maybe removed the spark plug and with wrench or socket rotated the engine via the big nut on the end of the rotor??? Very quick and easy to do.........only takes a beer or two...three+?? and counting to ten for me in these times

I pulled it all apart the primary /clutch /and gear side all look great has to be the crank shaft..

13deno · **Reply #15 on:** July 14, 2015, 09:19:32 pm

Quote from: dginfw on July 12, 2015, 11:23:52 pm

13deno, where are you located?

right now mass but moving shortly to the Houston area..

Arizoni · **Reply #16 on:** July 14, 2015, 10:45:32 pm

Quote from: 13deno on July 14, 2015, 09:16:45 pm

I pulled it all apart the primary /clutch /and gear side all look great has to be the crank shaft..

That is odd.
Unless the connecting rod is frozen at the big end, there isn't much on the crankshaft that can freeze up.
It is supported by a roller bearing and a ball bearing. While these items can fail they usually don't lock up when that happens.

The cam gears and other gears in the right side case could freeze up on their shafts if they didn't get sufficient oil and that could lock up the crankshaft.

I mention this because if the problem is with the gears in that area, the engine would not have to be removed from the frame to fix it.

ace.cafe · **Reply #17 on:** July 14, 2015, 11:05:11 pm

Truth be told, the bearings in the engine are poor quality, and should be replaced. They were poor when the factory made the engine.
This is a good opportunity to do what needs doing anyway.

dginfw · **Reply #18 on:** July 15, 2015, 06:30:45 am

Quote from: 13deno on July 14, 2015, 09:19:32 pm

right now mass but moving shortly to the Houston area..

ah, I'm in Texas (FtWorth) but a good ways north of Houston. I was asking in case anyone on the forum was nearby they might be able to help or at least reger you to a qualified local shop

cafeman · **Reply #19 on:** July 15, 2015, 12:50:31 pm

Drain the oil (remove all plugs under crank case) into a clean pan and pull the oil filter. See what comes out. And measure how much oil was in there. Have you pulled the timing cover yet? Pull it if not and have a loo. When your rear tire locked up how were you running the bike? Easy pace, pulling a hill, full throttle acceleration, etc? When was the last time you changed the oil.

DonK · **Reply #20 on:** July 15, 2015, 01:11:17 pm

13deno, where in Mass are you? I'm in Western Mass outside of Springfield