[The Old Coot]

Question, I bought a set today and after getting a bar end weight off I realized the "Spud" in the bar for RE end end weight is in the way. I looked at cutting the spud off the mirror but then it'd be hard to mount and I worry it'd spin in the bar as the projection is keyed to lock into the insert the mirrors came with. Before I either buy new bars OR cut the end off the factory ones pass the bar weight spud does anyone have any guidance on a simpler way to do this?

[FiRE Comms]

All I did when I won't end the napolean was run the bolt for the bar ends through the mirrors and bar ends and into the weldled in threaded weights.  longer bolts may be required.  it wasn't perfect but worked wonderfully.  hope that helps.

[HUdson51]

I also used longer bolts(I believe they came with mirrors) and screwed them into the welded in nuts inside the bars. I put some locktite on them to keep them from loosening from the vibration. Be sure to tighten them really well. The napoleons are SO much better!

[Craig McClure]

I took off the uncomfortable stock bars that hurt my wrists, & sold them with the weights on Ebay. Then I added a pair of BIKEMASTER BRAND "SUPER BIKE BARS" + Hella Bar End Directional Signals + Bar End Mirrors. Comfortable Functional setup for me. see pic.

[Scotty Brown]

Love the bar ends.  I had to get longer bolts and a couple of hard rubber washers and installed at the end of the bar weights. Blue loctite works well.  Tighten firmly.  Carry the allen wrench with you for the first few rides for adjustment and tension.  After they have taken a set they move very little and the vibration in minimal

[The Old Coot]

I took off the uncomfortable stock bars that hurt my wrists, & sold them with the weights on Ebay. Then I added a pair of BIKEMASTER BRAND "SUPER BIKE BARS"

Took your advice and order a pair of the bars and new grips. Only $22.00 from Superstore. Cheaper than one of the mirror. For a little "Toy" bike this thing's starting to cost REAL money a little at a time.

[The Old Coot]

OK got the Superbars in and mounted and all is NOT good. The enricher cable on the left and the throttle cables on the right hit the tank top with hard interference. I guess they changed things. So I did a little looking and ordered a set of the Dayton bars as they offer about 2" more rise and that should clear the tank. Luckily I found them on sale and both bars cost less than I would have paid locally for one set.

Anyway it looks sweet and the pull back is almost spot on. I should have the new bars in tomorrow...now I gotta go get the grip off as I glued it on before realizing I had a clearance problem.

[The Old Coot]

The Dayton bars came in and I got them on and all's right with the world. The pull back is spot on along with the rise and angle. The rise is about 3.5" that's a bit less than 2.5" more that the Superbike bars off and about 1" more that stock. I had a problem with having to lean forward and reach down to the factory bars and this helps even if I didn't change the mirrors. Plus it look "Right" not like I'd slapped a pair of Pro-Tapers on the C5.

Other than I had to cut the grip off the Superbike bars to get the clutch lever off it would have been a 15 minute job. I had a pair of Pro-Grips that look almost the same and are nicer. A hint if you use grip glue (Super glue) Cover the bike with plastic and a towel before you start. If the glue gets on the paint get use to it as it's NOT coming off. No I didn't make a mess, I learned this long ago.

[Scotty Brown]

Hair spray works very well when installing grips.  Just do it quickly before it sets.

[dls]

Any chance you could post a picture of the Dayton bars installed ?

[The Old Coot]

This is the only photo I have on this computer with them on the bike. They are just about the same height as the factory bars but have more pull back. Without the bar end weight welded inside I was able to mount the Napoleon Mirrors. BUT to dampen the vibration from the bars I filled them with bird shot I got at the gun shop, lead shot works best. Just drive a cork in one side of the bar and fill it up with shot shake and tap it until you're a couple of 2-3 inches from the end and drive a cork in this side your filling from. Works good, old dirt bikers trick! I also worked the locating pins out the switches as I don't like drilling holes in handlebars.  A couple of turns with electrical tape and they don't spin.

And the photo.

If you want I can get a couple of different shots tomorrow for you.

Coot
   

[dls]

Good picture, I may try that bend. I tried the gp touring bars that were my favorite on my SR500's but they didn't fit the seating geometry of the Enfield, so I went back to stock

[ToesNose]

Stock bars with Napoleon bar ends, I did cut the nubs off and have had no issues with spinning at all.  I was hoping to hunt down a pair of the round style ones, but I'm glad I didn't these have a great line of sight, barely vibrate and look really nice.

[Ducati Scotty]

Halcyon makes some round ones, very high quality in stainless steel and about  $75-80 each.  They have a large round and a smaller one.  They're pretty easy to find in the UK, a little more tricky here in the US.  They have a beautiful mounting system for hollow bars, useless for threaded bars like the stock RE has.

Scott

[GSS]

The original Japanese Baren brand Napoleons fit perfectly on the outside of the stock bar end weights using the nice long screw included with the mirrors. All I recall doing was cutting off a 2-3 mm long nubbin to make the inner mounting surface of the mirror flat. The weight of the mirrors plus the OEM bar end weights totally got rid of all vibrations.