[jif1025]

I just brought home a pre-owned 2007 RE Electra X, and after having sat for three days, the bike won't start.  It doesn't even make a peep during the starting sequence-

When I first went to look at the bike, the engine would turn over but failed to catch.  The (then) owner apparently charged it and it fired without difficulty.   

I have zero mechanical know-how (although it looks like I am goign to have to learn)... Is it likely just the battery?  Any help is welcomed!

[Spitting Bull]

I think I'd charge the battery and see if it starts as it should. If it does, I'd suspect the battery, as you suggest

Tom.

[Tiny Tim]

Jif,

Turn on the ignition and then try the lights and horn.

They will tell you if the battery is flat.

If the battery is just low then it may be enough to click the solonoid relay which is a small shiny box in front of the battery.

Either way, it sounds like the battery is either low or shot.

If so try charging or buy a new battery for peace of mind.

Believe me, it's worth the hassle and you have the right bike to learn more about mechanicals on.

REgards

TT

[GreenMachine]

get yourself  a battery charger that has both a  6 amp, 2amp, 2amp trickle charge built into it.   U can use if for your other battery needs, ie, lawn mower, car, cycle, etc..
If u don't wat the, charger get the battery tender...I find that my battery was doing the same thing and I put it on the 2 amp trickle charge overnight and it had a full charge vice a couple of hours on the charger..Also use your kickstart/decompressor and get the piston at tdc or jjust over tdc and start the bike in that position with your electric start...It makes it alot easier for the battert/electrics to kick in with a bit of help with downward motion of the crank and piston...This is common theme for these bikes...Worst case scenario is the battery but wouldn't go there yet without trying this...Mine is a 06 iron and when new the battery/electrics would start the bike at any piston position..That was short lived and I now try to rememmber to put the piston at tdc when I park it in the garage...Makes it easier to start and its a good thing to do re. wet sumping too....cheers

[jif1025]

Thanks for all the imput-  I will pick up a trickle charger today and see if that gets her going.  I think the cells in the battery may also be dry-  the bike is an 07 and has only 104 miles, so it has probably been sitting in the Arizona heat for the better part of a year.   When I looked at thte battery, I couldn't see any water mark between the min and max.  Any suggestions out there on a particular charger to keep an eye out for?

[The Garbone]

It might be easier if you just pull the battery and bring it down to the autoparts store.  They should have a tester that they hook on that will tell you if it is worth the hassle of charging.

 I bought a cheap battery charger at Walmart for about $15,  Has a charging and fault indicator LED on it. 

If you have to replace the battery, before you check out,   I suggest you open the box and make sure all the nuts, bolts & cell caps are there and the plastic caps on the acid are still intact. I have bought batteries that are missing parts and its enough to aggravate you when it happens. (Walmart)

[Nipper]

Hi There, Is the bike on its side stand? If yes... the bike wont start 
Other than that, from what you have said regarding the battery.. you probably need to buy a new one. Good luck!!

[webnash]

I wish I had a dollar for every time I tried to start mine with the side stand down. I thought I would be easier to train.

[PhilJ]

There are times when one may want the bike running on the side stand. BMW got around that by allowing the engine to run, but if put in gear with the side stand down the engine quit. I don't know how many time I restarted that thing before thinking.

[Tiny Tim]

I've worked out a mod that allows the bike to start and run on the side stand, as long as the bike's in neutral.

As soon as you select a gear, if the side stand is down, the engine dies.

It only takes a small automotive relay, the sort of thing you use for a more powerful horn and a couple of bullet connectors.

If anyone wants a copy of the diagram let me know.

timrose@cnnx.co.uk

REgards

TT

[jif1025]

Allright- I tried to charge the battery at 2amps over night, and when i tried to fire it up this morning... Nothing.  The horn wouldn't work either.  I took the battery off and tried to charge it at 6amps- when I reinstalled the battery and tried to fire the bike using electic start, again... nothing.  Only now the horn worked.  I kickstarted the bike and it caught but died within 10 seconds.  I am guessing that the battery will not hold a charge and needs to be replaced.  Any thoughts?

[GreenMachine]

U sound fustrated with this battery thing..Do u have a meter to look at the battery voltage or if not a place u can take the battery "autozone", etc where they can put a load on it and see how fast the voltage drops across it..That type of test would conclude whether or not the battery is holding a charge or not...Of course u can do the same thing with a meter at home (assumimg u have one and know how to use it..I'm not being sarcastic re. that coment)...Obviosuly u can get a new battery but it makes sense to check it out completely as u really will get irritated if u spend the bucks only to back to square 1...

[Thumper]

  Any thoughts?

Yeah, buy a new battery and once-and-for-all eliminate it as a possible cause.

[Jon]

If you do need a new battery I would suggest the gel type as they seem to hold a charge longer,I use one on my Harley WL45.

As a rule of thumb your battery should read about 13volts across the terminals if it is fully charged.As the bike has been stood for a while you might want to check
the connections to the battery,earth,fuze,kill switch etc and make sure they are
clean and tight.

You did drain the tank, tap and carb and put fresh gas in it?

[jif1025]

Alright- I caved and bought a new battery.  However, that seems to only fix half the problem.  The electric start still doesn't do a thing- although I was able to kick start the bike and rode a bit (about 3mi).  I have tried to get the engine just past TDC and the electric start doesn't even move the ammeter.  So (once again) any thoughts?  Thanks to all those who have made suggestions already!!

[Thumper]

Alright- I caved and bought a new battery.  However, that seems to only fix half the problem.  The electric start still doesn't do a thing- although I was able to kick start the bike and rode a bit (about 3mi).  I have tried to get the engine just past TDC and the electric start doesn't even move the ammeter.  So (once again) any thoughts?  Thanks to all those who have made suggestions already!!

The ammeter on the AVLs, with their non-points ignitions, does not drop when just past TDC like the ammeters on the points ignitions do.

My e-start has some kind of flaw where on a rare occasion (it's only happened about 3 or 4 times in 5000 miles) pressing the starter button...does absolutely nothing. In these cases I've kickstarted it, and the e-start has worked the next time I try it. I mention this only because it's possible that your e-start circuit simply isn't working. You might do a continuity check and a voltage check to ensure connectivity of the wires and that voltage is getting through. I can't give you details because I've never done it on the RE. However, I would look between the button/switch terminals at the handle bar, and the starter solenoid and battery and the starter motor.

Matt

[faltnerc]

Perhaps I can help:
I had the same problem yesterday.
I took out the bike after two weeks and turned the key, there was nothing, not even the green neutal light. Naturally I took out the battery, charged, rebuilt, tried to start - nothing.
I looked after the fuse - it was allright. Then I looked at the connection of the red cable - I took it apart and connected it again - and now it worked! The connection was a bit loose and corroded, I cleaned it and pressed it together, and now it´s allright.
This cable is the + cable for all appliances of the bike. If it is disconnected, nothing works!

Regards
Chris

[Joe28]

I'd start there-at the connections!
Start at the battery, clean BOTH connections, then with the Neg. cable off the battery, follow the pos. cable and clean the next connection.
Then do the same with the Neg. side
On my '04, I added a extra ground from the battery connection to the engine, engine to frame, cuz twice I'd come out and natta with the key turned on-very frustrating.
I don't know how many times I've found a bad connection on the Neg. side on bikes or cars I've worked on.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Joe
So many bikes, so few $$

[jif1025]

Okay-  the latest update.... Now the bike won't kick over either... Still doesn't make a sound when I try the electric start... Battery should be fine as it is brand new, connections to the battery and the fuses all look fine.  I am also getting power to the head lamp, horn, etc... When the key is turned to the "on" position, the ammeter drops slightly below the green.  I am at wits end-  I think I just paid 3k for a lawn ornament!    Worst part is- I am not even sure how I can get it to a shop!

[Tiny Tim]

jif,

Check that the terminations at the starter and the earth connection on the frame in front of the battery are both tight. Also check the two big cables on the solonoid. Just follow the big red cable from the battery to find it.

The starter motor draws a hell of a lot of current and needs good tight terminations.

A poor earth connection would be enough for the small amps needed for the horn, lights ameter etc but would be insuficient for the starter.

If all of that fails then it may be the solonoid. This is nothing more than a big switch.

Carefully short the two cables together for a moment with a pair of pliers and the starter should spin. If this works and the starter button doesn't do the same thing then it is the solonoid.

Replace it.

REgards

TT

[jif1025]

Just thought I would drop an update... I took the battery out again and threw it on the charger (although it is new)-  once it showed a full charge I installed it once again and was able to kick-start the bike.   The electric start did absolutely nothing, though... In reading the responses above, I noticed that many of you reference a mother connection- can anyone explain where that is on the 2007 RE Electra X?  I want to check the connections to make sure that isn't the culprit.  Is it stands now, I am suspecting that there is a short somewhere causing the battery to drain, and the solenoid needs replacing to get the ES working again.  The solenoid is just the squat metal cylinder that is attached to the battery, right?  (remembering I have NO mechanical know-how  ) Is it something that a neophyte can chage?

[Thumper]

Just thought I would drop an update... I took the battery out again and threw it on the charger (although it is new)-  once it showed a full charge I installed it once again and was able to kick-start the bike.   The electric start did absolutely nothing, though... In reading the responses above, I noticed that many of you reference a mother connection- can anyone explain where that is on the 2007 RE Electra X?  I want to check the connections to make sure that isn't the culprit.  Is it stands now, I am suspecting that there is a short somewhere causing the battery to drain, and the solenoid needs replacing to get the ES working again.  The solenoid is just the squat metal cylinder that is attached to the battery, right?  (remembering I have NO mechanical know-how  ) Is it something that a neophyte can chage?

Yes, that is the solenoid.

On the 2006 Electra X the solenoid is so close to the edge of the sidecover that it can short out. I rotated mine about 45 degrees in its rubber holder. I also applied rubber trim to the edge of the sidecover. I know of one other person that had this happen to them.

Matt