[grumbern]

Done some stuff...

Some corrosion and distortion on the heads:




After some initial lapping:




Still a lot to do:






Lapped them beginning with 60, 100, 320 to 500 grain. Now it looks much nicer and might give a little more compression

[Adrian II]

Very satisfying to see a proper joint face emerging.

I had to do the same with a brand new Electra-X cylinder head, not because of corrosion, but because somebody at the factory thought that setting the milling machine to give a rippled effect on the main joint face would look pretty! You could feel the bumps as well as see them. At least yours took 55 years to get into that state.

A.

[High On Octane]

Those heads are looking sharp!  I had to surface my heads on a table sander myself.

[grumbern]

Just a glass plate and sandpaper and off we go

Adrian, looks as if the tool was over it's time...

[Adrian II]

I don't know quite how the factory managed it, but it cleaned up OK using exactly the same method as yours. The fact that the new head was really very cheap from the UK importers (for a new item) meant that I wasn't too worried about a little extra work.

A.

[ace.cafe]

Intake seat width should be no wider than. 060".
Exhaust no wider than .100".

[grumbern]

The seats will be done this weekend. Guides came in new today, so I can grind the seats and lap the valves.
Andreas

[grumbern]

For all those, waiting for the update:

I'll still take some days. The valve seats are beyond re-grinding and need to be replaced. One shop quoted 160€ per head, plus shipping and material. The local shop anyhow was somewhere around 40€ per seat, plus material, and is only 15 minutes away. but it's gonna take some time, as usual.

Also, the paintjob has to be redone, as it seems to have gotten too much of the cold, and the paint didn't bond with the primer - bad luck. So I'll be taking all the parts back this weekend.

Yet another round to be taken

[grumbern]

Valve seats can still be ground, according to the shop and should be done by next week.
I still have to meet with my painter to dicuss the problems regarding the paint job.

[High On Octane]

Post some close up pics of where the paint is failing and I may be able to determine how or why the paint failed.

[grumbern]

I gave back the parts yesterday. It is very probable that the temperature went down too much too early and the paint didn't have enough time. He painted it in the evening when it was quite cold that week (~10°C below zero at night) and the heating is not running the whole night.

He's doing it over and hopefuly it will work out.
Andreas

[High On Octane]

If the paint was bubbling away from the surface, then it was likely a temperature issue.  Unless the entire surface was contaminated with some kind of oil, which is not very likely.  Bummer it didn't come out the first go round.  Glad to hear the painter is going to make it right tho. 

[grumbern]

Yesterday I managed to work on the front wheel hub on the lathe - sanding down all these dings and marks and scratches and corrosion gathered over the years. Still some bigger dents are visible, but there's nothing you can do about it. As it is, i got some two hands of aluminum dust off it.






Also I trued the brake's steel rim:



Unfortunately my "flexible shaft" (what's that called in English?! A tool used as a flexible transmission from a drill, or motor to a hand held tool) broke during sanding some of the parts to be polished - so no progress here either for now.
Hopefully I can pick up the painted parts today. We'll see.

[Ice]

"flexible shaft" (what's that called in English?!

 You got it right.
Flexible shaft. Also sometimes called "flex shaft".

 Nice work by the way.

[grumbern]

Oh, goodie

I managed to repair the darn thing today. Well, maybe, the testing has not been done yet.
I just trimmed it and cut off the damaged part, turned a 10mm connecting shaft for the drill and a housing for the sleeve, that also holds a ball bearing, which now guides the shaft, preventing it from scratching again. I fixed the shaft using a bigger crimping tool. The marks can be seen on the solid shaft end.

Hope it will work!