[High On Octane]

I'm usually very good at trouble shooting electrical issues big and small.  But this new particular issue has me completely stumped.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VHzk8cTjCI

Charging system is completely removed from the bike.  I have gone over the entire wiring harness thoroughly, looking for shorts and even testing for draws.  Everything is good, coil tests perfect and all connections everywhere are solid.  Turning on just the lights does not cause the issue, and the headlight is unaffected by the issue and stays bright.  I have it isolated to be directly related to ignition.  I took the battery back to Batteries Plus to have it tested just to be sure.  Initial test showed 12.65V and 100CCA out of 110 and came back as a good battery with a good charge.  And this was after riding it for about 30 minutes on Memorial Day and a total of about 45-60 minutes of testing lights and running in the car port.  But they are putting it on their trickle charger overnight and testing it again tomorrow for good measure.

Then I got to thinking that I haven't tested the electrical system since I removed the resister caps on the HT leads.  And I remember the instructions for the ignition said they were needed because the system will cause electrical interference, but I don't have anything else but lights and rectifier.  Is it possible that the ignition/coil is causing my multimeter to freak out, possibly causing damage to other stuff?  If not, I'm at a loss.

[Mr.Mazza]

That is entirely possible.

[Arizoni]

Try resting the multi-meter on a large piece of steel sheet metal.
A similar piece of sheet metal between most of the lengths of the multi-meters wires and the HE source should protect them.

If the HT radio waves are causing the problem, the sheet metal should shield the meter.

 

[mattsz]

[Blltrdr]

What are your MM connections in the video? If you are taking the voltage readings at the battery I would check voltages elsewhere and see if it does the same thing. If what your MM is showing is correct I would be leaning toward your rec/reg.

[High On Octane]

What are your MM connections in the video? If you are taking the voltage readings at the battery I would check voltages elsewhere and see if it does the same thing. If what your MM is showing is correct I would be leaning toward your rec/reg.

I've tested at the terminals, the tender dongle, and the fuse panel post.  All the same readings.  Will also show the same results with only 1 lead connected.  Rectifier and alternator are currently removed from the bike.

[Blltrdr]

Replaced MM battery?

[ERC]

So the only thing you have is the ignition hooked to the battery? What ignition are you using?  ERC

[Arizoni]

If your getting that sort of reading on your meter with only one test wire connected, take a look outside.  Look for a large, black, silent helicopter hovering over your house.

Also it's possible you might see a large glowing disk like object hovering overhead.
They often emit beams of light in various directions and they can streak off into the distance, totally vanishing in less than a few seconds.

If either of these things are seen, you are in great danger,
Get a large roll of aluminum foil and cover your head with it.  A stainless steel pot will also work if you don't have any aluminum foil.

[High On Octane]

Bwaaahahahahahahaha!!!!!!                           

Like I said, I am beyond baffled on this one.  For reference This is how the bike is wired:

Fused lead from battery + terminal to key switch and then to the post on fuse panel.
5 fuses - Coil +
             Ignition/kill switch
             Taillight
             Brake Light
             Headlight

Ignition is a Thorspark EI conversion, very simple.  Points plate is replaced with a trigger and a rotor with magnetic pick ups.  Signal goes to a dual lead coil.  That's it.
             

[Arizoni]

The meter could be totally frinkled up except without the engine running it does seem to be working.

That leaves the voltage regulator as the main possibility.
I don't know why a VR would keep changing the output voltage from 0 to 18 or 19 and then reset and do it all over again.
  Maybe one of our solid state experts could guess?

[mattsz]

There's times when one could really use an analog volt meter...

[ERC]

My guess is the thorspark is sending weird readings through the meter without the charging system being hooked up. Running the system directly off the battery. You could try it with an analog meter to see what it does.

[DanB]

I agree with ERC. I think you're measuring the high voltage noise via the coils. Either through the wires or RF. I think I read you removed the resistors from the plug caps, right?  A couple of wild ideas:

1. Move the meter. Don't leave it over  the coil nor ignition. Also separate the leads of the MM so they are not running directly parallel to each other (antennae). Remove the RFI variable.
2. Use the resistors at the point of measurement. Just one on the positive should work. This may need an alligator clip. Reduce the transmitted noise.

[High On Octane]

I have 2 sets of leads for my MM, one with "sticks" and the other with alligators, I usually use the alligators and have .2 ohms resistance.  Yes, the resistor caps were removed about a month ago.  I am about 90% sure now that it is RFI, as everything else has tested good (except the dead alternator and RR which is removed now).  And especially considering it is picking up the readings with only 1 lead, neg or pos.

What is the difference between using resistor plugs and resistor caps?  Will either do the same job?  One better than the other?  I wonder if the lack of R caps is creating too hot of a spark and is what could be causing my excessive detonation in timing.......