[guss,guss]

 i decided to give the Eureka ignition a try. i have one question.
 i know the red wire from the module goes to the pos coil terminal WITH the positive wire that already is there.  the brown wire from the module goes to the neg terminal of the coil. right now there is a red/black wire on the neg terminal.
 the diagram doesn't show the red/black there anymore.
 do i disconnect the red/black and cap it of or does it need to stay there?
 thanks.

[Arizoni]

The wire connected to the negative terminal is the old wire from the ignition points/condenser.  It would be replaced by the new brown wire.

As the points are no longer in the system, the red/black wire won't be connected on either end so you can just leave it.

[solg]

That red/ black wire goes to the kill sw and back. I do believe if you hook it up like that you will be taking the kill switch out of the circut. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[Hondo]

The red wire with the black tracer goes from the negative side of the coil all the way to the kill switch.  When the switch is in the run position it completes a circuit into the black wire with the red tracer and goes into the points.  When the kill switch is off, the circuit is open and no ground is provided to the coil and no spark is produced.  This was verified on a 2006 US spec model with electric start.  Hope this helps.

[guss,guss]

you are all correct. i checked it with the multimeter.all this time i didn't know the12VDC from the points being closed was going all the way through the kill switch and down to the primary of the coil.
 that explains why, one time i was trying to start the bike but the ammeter was not deflecting. i looked in the trouble shooting guide and one of the first things to check was the kill switch. and sure enough it was in the kill position.
 so, if i wanted to keep the kill switch working all i would need to do is feed the red wire from the module the the same connection the point went to. then it would feed through the kill switch to the coil.
 but i think i will just connect it directly to the coil to minimize any resistance from the long thin wire.
 thanks for the help 

[Arizoni]

Interesting.

My electrical diagram of the old Iron Barrel must be wrong or it's for an older version of the Bullet.

It shows the battery positive power going thru a fuse to the ignition switch.
From the ignition switch the power goes to the ampmeter.
From the ampmeter the power goes through the kill switch to the positive coil terminal.
This completes the power to coil side of the circuit.
The negative coil terminal goes to the ignition points and then to ground.

Oh well.  I tried.

[guss,guss]

well, mine is a late 99, with 4 wire alt and ac-dc system. i looked at the wiring diagram for it and i didn't see the kill switch anywhere. it also shows the red/black from the points connected to the red/black at the neg coil terminal. they don't connect there.
 i was checking the red/black that was connected to the points, and the red/black going back to the coil. i had continuity until i switched it to kill position.

[flyboy]

Arizoni, mine is the same as you describe from your schematic. Unlike Guss' mine is an early '99 with 3-wire all DC system. I think the change is June '99.

[Hondo]

Be advised on models that have four wires on the ignition switch one pair of the wires is spliced into the kill switch/points circuit and is normally closed when the key is off.  When the key is in the run postion the ground circuit is opened and other pair sends power from the battery all the way to the amp meter and then into all electric feeds on the bike except the AC headlight.

[guss,guss]

here is an update for anyone interested.
 i ended up wiring the brown wire from the module back thru the kill switch and to the neg on the coil.
 the reason is, the bike kept running after i turn the ignition off. I'm sure its because of that large capacitor i have in the system. it didn't do it all the time and i could usually kill it by apply the brake (to light the bulb) and turn on a turn signal. but the last time it wouldn't stop running i had done both of those and it kept running for at least 30 sec. my last resort would be honk the horn. or, i could pour a bucket of water over myself, grip the frame with my left hand and pull the plug wire with my right.  i decided to reroute the wire instead. 

[Hondo]

well, mine is a late 99, with 4 wire alt and ac-dc system. i looked at the wiring diagram for it and i didn't see the kill switch anywhere.

I'm thinking your bike is four wire stator but has Magura controls instead of the more recent Minda controls, in which case would be wired differnt.

[guss,guss]

 i think it did have Magura levers from the factory. it had one of each when i got it. the PO had wrecked it on one side and obviously replaced the one with a Minda.  the frame plaque says July 99. i just figured the factory was using up the leftover levers. that was one of the first things i replaced. now it has Minda levers.