[singhg5]

Meguiar's and Mothers sell several products for cleaning, polishing, and waxing cars. Some of the items are in spray bottles and others in tin cans with an applicator.

Which company's products do you like ? 

Do you use round-tin-container wax with hand sponge or the spray bottle ? 

Some may be using Turtle Wax. What are your views on their products ?

[solg]

Meguires paste wax. Their spray for touch up. For aluminum,I've used mothers mag & aluminum polish for years.the best stuff out there till I found Capitan Richards Bombs Away. It takes less effort and leaves a protective coating.

[High On Octane]

Glad you asked! 

With all the different products out today, it can definitely be confusing on deciding what product is right for you.  I will start by saying that I only use 3 brands of detailing products; 3M, Meguiar's and Mother's.  And my preference being in that order.  But there are many different types of detailing products, and they all serve a different purpose.

Waxes:  Wax is what seals and protects your paint and helps give that deep gloss.  Carnuba wax is always a good one.  Typically easy to work with, fairly long lasting and cost effective.  I recently have been using Meguiar's Ultimate synthetic wax.  Extremely easy to work with, as it can even be applied in direct sunlight, and leaves an amazing shine.  A little more expensive but worth every penny.  There are other types of waxes as well, but in my opinion are a waste of money.  When using wax, work in small areas (on cars) like a single panel at a time.  Apply the wax in small circular motions using a little bit of pressure, but no elbow grease.  Allow the wax to just start to dry to haze and buff off with a clean microfiber towel.  Always wax a vehicle in the shade, do NOT wax in direct sunlight!  Always make sure your applicator sponge and microfibers are clean and free of dirt so you don't scratch the paint.

Detailing Spray:  This is an amazing product and a must have in the detailing arsenal.  Detailing spray is a unique liquid polish designed for up keeping your shine.  It is perfect for removing dust, pollen, rain spots, and minor road grime.  It's what you use to keep your bike tidy and shiny between washes.  Simply spray on the surface and wipe dry!  When wiping down the panel, use one side of your clean microfiber towel for the initial wipe, then flip to a dry section of your towel and wipe again for a streak free finish.

Rubbing Compound:  Rubbing compound is an aggressive, gritty paste used for removing sand scratches after wet sanding, restoring hazed painted and removing light scratches.  It should only be used with a high speed buffer and with proper training.  If you are unfamiliar with using a high speed buffer, please watch some youtube videos 1st as it is quite easy to ruin your paint job if you are not careful.

Polish:  Polish is a more liquid version of wax designed for use in high speed buffers.  It can also be applied in the same fashion as wax by hand, but is specifically designed for use after using rubbing compound.

Metal Polish:  Much like rubbing compound, but designed for polishing metal.  There are different grades of fineness for metal depending on your needs, the type of metal, and the level of corrosion present.  Read labels carefully when selecting the right polish for your needs.  I prefer Meguiar's Medium Duty Metal Polish for light to medium corroded aluminum and NevrDul wadding polish for cleaning up chrome.

Clay Bar:  Clay bars are a great tool for vehicles with older paint, and is just what you think, a bar of clay.  It is used for removing oxidization and surface contaminates that are bonded to the paint.  If you have ever run your fingers or a towel across a paint job and it is feeling gritty tho it is clean, this is the tool to get it smooth again.  To use, wad and knead the clay in your hands until it is flat and warm.  Spray the panel to be cleaned with detailing spray and work the clay bar in circular motions across the paint.  Keep the surface well lubricated with the spray and continue to knead the clay every couple of minutes.  As you go across the paint, you will feel the clay bar move easier and easier.  When the clay is completely slick in that area, the surface has been decontaminated.  Make sure to apply a fresh coat of wax after clay barring to seal the paint again.

[greenie]

HoO- any comments about tr3? i've used it for quite a long time. a bit of work, but a nice finish.....

[High On Octane]

I have not used that product before.  But if it works for you...   

[singhg5]

Glad you asked!  ............
.........

Thanks. I will go with Meguiar's.

[Gypsyjon]

THat is what I use on my truck too. Be sure you get the kind with NO CLEANER in it. The cleaners leave swirl marks in the paint.

[alladinko]

last weekend was some big party here in brooklyn and i actually didn't really wash my enfield since i bought it (shh). for those reasons i felt that i should give my green monster some love back. i had the turtle was as on the pic and i remember disappointment from trying it some time ago. but it was there so i started with it. it's sh.t. i don't know how long was i killing my fingers there, pain and frustration ordered me to go to autozone to see if there is anything better. and some hipster dude recommended me the mothers, as on the pic. aaand - half the work, double the result. enfield shiny like when i brought it home the first time. with the turtle, it was like 'maybe if i rub it for another 8 hours, i'll see a difference when sun will shine on it'… with the mother it was like 'daaamn, love it!'. i used it and saw the results almost immediately... THANK YOU, HIPSTER DUDE! turtle you suck, mother i love you

[High On Octane]

Yeah, Turtle Wax is junk.

[Arizoni]

I use Meguiar's Gold Class liquid wax on all of my painted and chromed parts (except for the silencer).

It's easy to use, gives a fantastic shine, gives excellent protection from water and dust and it lasts a long time before the surfaces start to look like they need rewaxing.

It's kept my bikes paint and the chrome looking new for 3 years.

[singhg5]

Just slightly off this topic but related indirectly.

Has anyone tried FLUID FILM on motorcycle or car for protection or lubrication purposes ? It is made from lanolin and supposedly protects metal from rust, repels water from electrical connections, terminals, and also acts as lubricant. I guess something like ACF50. 

[cafeman]

Polishes, waxes, cut, cleaners. Most have their favorites and swear by them. Meguiars fine, medium, heavy cut cleaners depending on paint condition, swirl remover, polish and then carnauba wax.....then there's 3M. I tend to believe it really boils down to correct product for the tasks and how these products are applied that is more critical to results than the actual brand. Gloss and longevity require elbow grease. Most want to get that in a spray bottle. Meguiars products and Blue Magic polish paste get my money. Works for me and is easy to source.

[High On Octane]

Polishes, waxes, cut, cleaners. Most have their favorites and swear by them. Meguiars fine, medium, heavy cut cleaners depending on paint condition, swirl remover, polish and then carnauba wax.....then there's 3M. I tend to believe it really boils down to correct product for the tasks and how these products are applied that is more critical to results than the actual brand. Gloss and longevity require elbow grease. Most want to get that in a spray bottle. Meguiars products and Blue Magic polish paste get my money. Works for me and is easy to source.

I have to disagree with part of this statement.  Yes, everyone has their "favorite brands", but there are definitely some major differences between the different brands.  Some waxes are easy to work with, other not so much.  Some produce an excellent shine while others just look like you cleaned the clear coat.  Meguairs is one of my favorite brands to use, but it also can be very difficult to use if you're not careful.  For instance, if you apply wax to too large of an area before you buff it off, it will harden itself to the paint and you basically will have to scrub it back off.  But as a general rule, like everything else in life, you get what you pay for.  Which is why I only use 3M, Meguiars and Mother's.  It's not that cheaper brands don't work, but they certainly don't work as well as the pricier ones.

And if the paint is in good condition, it really shouldn't require any "elbow grease " at all.  The only time elbow grease should be required is if the clear coat is severely faded, oxidized or you are buffing out light scratches or sand scratches.  And even then, you should be letting the high speed buffer do the work.  BUT, to get a deep beautiful shine, you do need to put some time into it. 

[cafeman]

Elbow grease = time I should have said, not sweating all over the place and getting "penis elbow"!!  .  Although good reults can be attained that way if one is determined. I learned , (though cant say I have the required focus or patience) from my bro seeing all his results on Cutlass's, Vista Cruisers, Hurst Olds and  442's...bringing back and maintaining finishes. But I still believe its how and what is used for each task or step vs just brand. In general not absolute

[High On Octane]

Totally.   

[tooseevee]

Has anyone tried FLUID FILM on motorcycle or car for protection or lubrication purposes ? It is made from lanolin and supposedly protects metal from rust, repels water from electrical connections, terminals, and also acts as lubricant. I guess something like ACF50.

             I've used Fluid Film since the '70s. It has hundreds of uses. I've used it mostly for rust prevention on vintage & classic cars & for the interior of box frames that will rust from the inside out from condensation. It creeps into every crook & nanny. If heated, you can spray it into cavities with a wand. It does collect dust & fine sand on exposed surfaces, but dust or rust? Right?

              It has hundreds of uses & there's even a food grade for use on food processing machines. I wouldn't use it on a bike; collects dust & hard to wash off, but I had a friend who kept his whole car, over & under, except the glass, slathered with FF.

              I've used it on the deck I built here 15 or more years ago since day one. Every summer I spend a 1/2 hour three or four different days, when the mood strikes me, slathering a new coat on all the components with a 4" brush (2x6's, 2x4's, 1x4's, 4x4's). The floor (2x6's) takes about an hour & a half ( 3 half hour sessions). The whole deck looks like fine furniture now; no dry rot, no wet rot. Water beads up like on a duck.

             It's even good for your hair; Lanolin (Alberto VO5).

             It was developed in one of the Scandinavian countries to help prevent rust in the bilges of steel hulled boats & drilling rigs. I've never used the aerosol cans; too expensive & you get very little in the can compared to the gallons. In gallons it has the consistency of thick honey & a little goes a long way. I have an open gallon in my deck shed & two full gallons down in the garage. I'm set for life.

           It will lubricate anything you don't want to use oil or grease on.

[Dave1]

Personally on my RE I use a combination of products, I use Autoglym Shampoo Conditioner, Autoglym Super Resin Polish, Autoglym Tar and Bug remover. I only use the Autoglym Super Resin Polish occasionally, prefering to use ACF50 on everything on my bike, ACF50 makes everything look brand new and preserves everything, the best preservative there is, and in my book is a must have if you ride through winter.

[Hondo]

Well on my 06 military "old sarge" I use a simple trick I learned from grandfather.  I add a little kerosene to my wash water.  I adds a bit of shine and leaves a protective film on the metal.  While I'm not going to win in shows the paint and metal are protected.

[Kevin Mahoney]

While on the show circuit for closing in on two decades I (and many of my other MC exhibitors found that "Honda Polish" was the best. Not sure it is made anymore but if you can't get it try Kawasaki Polish. ( I have a lifetime supply of Honda Polish and no, don't even ask) No magic, no hyped claims, but when you've done thousands of bikes it stands up to the test of time.

[GSS]

I use Meguiars and 3M as well, but the Honda/Kawasaki polish is intriguing!  Will definitely try to track some down

[cafeman]

While on the show circuit for closing in on two decades I (and many of my other MC exhibitors found that "Honda Polish" was the best. Not sure it is made anymore but if you can't get it try Kawasaki Polish. ( I have a lifetime supply of Honda Polish and no, don't even ask) No magic, no hyped claims, but when you've done thousands of bikes it stands up to the test of time.

If I'm not mistaken "Bikers Choice" polish is essentially the same as the Honda polish. After not being able to find Honda polish due to rampant  hoarding  the Bikers Choice is everywhere now, just saw it at Advance Auto even. I think it performs the same from my experience with both but maybe a side by side comparison of the two or others would confirm

[ace.cafe]

On my old Jag, I used Meguiar's Gold Class polish, and it was good enough to win a car show. Very good shine!