[singhg5]

Meguiar's and Mothers sell several products for cleaning, polishing, and waxing cars. Some of the items are in spray bottles and others in tin cans with an applicator.

Which company's products do you like ? 

Do you use round-tin-container wax with hand sponge or the spray bottle ? 

Some may be using Turtle Wax. What are your views on their products ?

[solg]

Meguires paste wax. Their spray for touch up. For aluminum,I've used mothers mag & aluminum polish for years.the best stuff out there till I found Capitan Richards Bombs Away. It takes less effort and leaves a protective coating.

[High On Octane]

Glad you asked! 

With all the different products out today, it can definitely be confusing on deciding what product is right for you.  I will start by saying that I only use 3 brands of detailing products; 3M, Meguiar's and Mother's.  And my preference being in that order.  But there are many different types of detailing products, and they all serve a different purpose.

Waxes:  Wax is what seals and protects your paint and helps give that deep gloss.  Carnuba wax is always a good one.  Typically easy to work with, fairly long lasting and cost effective.  I recently have been using Meguiar's Ultimate synthetic wax.  Extremely easy to work with, as it can even be applied in direct sunlight, and leaves an amazing shine.  A little more expensive but worth every penny.  There are other types of waxes as well, but in my opinion are a waste of money.  When using wax, work in small areas (on cars) like a single panel at a time.  Apply the wax in small circular motions using a little bit of pressure, but no elbow grease.  Allow the wax to just start to dry to haze and buff off with a clean microfiber towel.  Always wax a vehicle in the shade, do NOT wax in direct sunlight!  Always make sure your applicator sponge and microfibers are clean and free of dirt so you don't scratch the paint.

Detailing Spray:  This is an amazing product and a must have in the detailing arsenal.  Detailing spray is a unique liquid polish designed for up keeping your shine.  It is perfect for removing dust, pollen, rain spots, and minor road grime.  It's what you use to keep your bike tidy and shiny between washes.  Simply spray on the surface and wipe dry!  When wiping down the panel, use one side of your clean microfiber towel for the initial wipe, then flip to a dry section of your towel and wipe again for a streak free finish.

Rubbing Compound:  Rubbing compound is an aggressive, gritty paste used for removing sand scratches after wet sanding, restoring hazed painted and removing light scratches.  It should only be used with a high speed buffer and with proper training.  If you are unfamiliar with using a high speed buffer, please watch some youtube videos 1st as it is quite easy to ruin your paint job if you are not careful.

Polish:  Polish is a more liquid version of wax designed for use in high speed buffers.  It can also be applied in the same fashion as wax by hand, but is specifically designed for use after using rubbing compound.

Metal Polish:  Much like rubbing compound, but designed for polishing metal.  There are different grades of fineness for metal depending on your needs, the type of metal, and the level of corrosion present.  Read labels carefully when selecting the right polish for your needs.  I prefer Meguiar's Medium Duty Metal Polish for light to medium corroded aluminum and NevrDul wadding polish for cleaning up chrome.

Clay Bar:  Clay bars are a great tool for vehicles with older paint, and is just what you think, a bar of clay.  It is used for removing oxidization and surface contaminates that are bonded to the paint.  If you have ever run your fingers or a towel across a paint job and it is feeling gritty tho it is clean, this is the tool to get it smooth again.  To use, wad and knead the clay in your hands until it is flat and warm.  Spray the panel to be cleaned with detailing spray and work the clay bar in circular motions across the paint.  Keep the surface well lubricated with the spray and continue to knead the clay every couple of minutes.  As you go across the paint, you will feel the clay bar move easier and easier.  When the clay is completely slick in that area, the surface has been decontaminated.  Make sure to apply a fresh coat of wax after clay barring to seal the paint again.

[greenie]

HoO- any comments about tr3? i've used it for quite a long time. a bit of work, but a nice finish.....

[High On Octane]

I have not used that product before.  But if it works for you...   

[singhg5]

Glad you asked!  ............
.........

Thanks. I will go with Meguiar's.

[Gypsyjon]

THat is what I use on my truck too. Be sure you get the kind with NO CLEANER in it. The cleaners leave swirl marks in the paint.

[alladinko]

last weekend was some big party here in brooklyn and i actually didn't really wash my enfield since i bought it (shh). for those reasons i felt that i should give my green monster some love back. i had the turtle was as on the pic and i remember disappointment from trying it some time ago. but it was there so i started with it. it's sh.t. i don't know how long was i killing my fingers there, pain and frustration ordered me to go to autozone to see if there is anything better. and some hipster dude recommended me the mothers, as on the pic. aaand - half the work, double the result. enfield shiny like when i brought it home the first time. with the turtle, it was like 'maybe if i rub it for another 8 hours, i'll see a difference when sun will shine on it'… with the mother it was like 'daaamn, love it!'. i used it and saw the results almost immediately... THANK YOU, HIPSTER DUDE! turtle you suck, mother i love you

[High On Octane]

Yeah, Turtle Wax is junk.

[Arizoni]

I use Meguiar's Gold Class liquid wax on all of my painted and chromed parts (except for the silencer).

It's easy to use, gives a fantastic shine, gives excellent protection from water and dust and it lasts a long time before the surfaces start to look like they need rewaxing.

It's kept my bikes paint and the chrome looking new for 3 years.

[singhg5]

Just slightly off this topic but related indirectly.

Has anyone tried FLUID FILM on motorcycle or car for protection or lubrication purposes ? It is made from lanolin and supposedly protects metal from rust, repels water from electrical connections, terminals, and also acts as lubricant. I guess something like ACF50. 

[cafeman]

Polishes, waxes, cut, cleaners. Most have their favorites and swear by them. Meguiars fine, medium, heavy cut cleaners depending on paint condition, swirl remover, polish and then carnauba wax.....then there's 3M. I tend to believe it really boils down to correct product for the tasks and how these products are applied that is more critical to results than the actual brand. Gloss and longevity require elbow grease. Most want to get that in a spray bottle. Meguiars products and Blue Magic polish paste get my money. Works for me and is easy to source.

[High On Octane]

Polishes, waxes, cut, cleaners. Most have their favorites and swear by them. Meguiars fine, medium, heavy cut cleaners depending on paint condition, swirl remover, polish and then carnauba wax.....then there's 3M. I tend to believe it really boils down to correct product for the tasks and how these products are applied that is more critical to results than the actual brand. Gloss and longevity require elbow grease. Most want to get that in a spray bottle. Meguiars products and Blue Magic polish paste get my money. Works for me and is easy to source.

I have to disagree with part of this statement.  Yes, everyone has their "favorite brands", but there are definitely some major differences between the different brands.  Some waxes are easy to work with, other not so much.  Some produce an excellent shine while others just look like you cleaned the clear coat.  Meguairs is one of my favorite brands to use, but it also can be very difficult to use if you're not careful.  For instance, if you apply wax to too large of an area before you buff it off, it will harden itself to the paint and you basically will have to scrub it back off.  But as a general rule, like everything else in life, you get what you pay for.  Which is why I only use 3M, Meguiars and Mother's.  It's not that cheaper brands don't work, but they certainly don't work as well as the pricier ones.

And if the paint is in good condition, it really shouldn't require any "elbow grease " at all.  The only time elbow grease should be required is if the clear coat is severely faded, oxidized or you are buffing out light scratches or sand scratches.  And even then, you should be letting the high speed buffer do the work.  BUT, to get a deep beautiful shine, you do need to put some time into it. 

[cafeman]

Elbow grease = time I should have said, not sweating all over the place and getting "penis elbow"!!  .  Although good reults can be attained that way if one is determined. I learned , (though cant say I have the required focus or patience) from my bro seeing all his results on Cutlass's, Vista Cruisers, Hurst Olds and  442's...bringing back and maintaining finishes. But I still believe its how and what is used for each task or step vs just brand. In general not absolute

[High On Octane]

Totally.