Author Topic: Engine will ONLY START with Clutch pulled in  (Read 10470 times)

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Bulletman

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on: April 19, 2015, 06:03:25 pm
I've noticed that when I start up the bike, 95% of the time I have to pull the clutch in for the bike to start, rarely will the bike start anymore on just pushing the ES. 
I don't have a kick start and yes the bike is in neutral when I do this.
  ???
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ace.cafe

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Reply #1 on: April 19, 2015, 06:07:01 pm
Battery may be getting weak.
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cstorckiii

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Reply #2 on: April 19, 2015, 06:53:20 pm
It could be the clutch switch. It's a double throw switch ( two sets of contacts) actuated by the clutch lever. It can be taken apart and cleaned.
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Bulletman

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Reply #3 on: April 19, 2015, 07:27:58 pm
@ace
I checked voltage and its all good ace, this has been going on for a couple of years now...
@cstorckiii
I believe that someone else also told me about that  same clutch switch you mention.....I'm wondering if it's easily accessible and easy to clean?
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SteveThackery

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Reply #4 on: April 19, 2015, 07:46:27 pm
Assuming the circuit is unchanged from when Scaly did his wiring diagram.......

When you pull the clutch in, it provides an earth to the starter relay, allowing it to operate.

When the clutch is out, the starter relay gets its earth through the clutch switch from the neutral switch.  So:

1/ If the neutral light is operating correctly, then there could be a disconnection in the wire between the clutch switch and the neutral switch, OR - far more likely - the "make when clutch released" contacts inside the clutch switch are dirty, as cstorckiii suggests.

2/ If the neutral light is NOT operating correctly, then the wire to the neutral switch is disconnected, or the neutral switch itself is faulty.

My bet is on option 1/, caused by a faulty clutch switch.  I've never tried to take mine to bits - perhaps someone can give guidance on that?
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Bulletman

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Reply #5 on: April 19, 2015, 08:03:10 pm
@Steve
The neutral light works like a charm, never any issues with that. I'm thinking it's got to be Option 1/ which would be the clutch switch
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cstorckiii

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Reply #6 on: April 19, 2015, 11:06:52 pm
Left side handlebars, underneath the clutch lever clamp. IIRC, it's held in place by one screw.
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Bulletman

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Reply #7 on: April 20, 2015, 03:23:56 am
Ok. Here goes, it has 2 screws  ;)
I pulled it out and it looks completely clean, I cleaned the contacts up all the same.
I'm wondering if I should now follow the other end of the wire into the Nacelle, I'm assuming it connects to the ignition?
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Bulletman

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Reply #8 on: April 20, 2015, 03:43:52 am
That clutch switch is sealed and can't be taken apart, short of breaking it Or prying it open....
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Blairio

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Reply #9 on: April 20, 2015, 04:34:33 am
Here in the UK the clutch switches are 6.50 GBP - so not expensive. In fact a can of contact cleaner would be half of that.  Is there another bullet owner nearby who could let you try their clutch switch?


Bulletman

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Reply #10 on: April 20, 2015, 04:45:54 am
Blairio
Unfortunately I don't have another bullet guy close by, but I did use a regular compressed air can, I will b able to get some contact cleaner tomorrow.
I still need to identify where the issue lies though. and if All fails then I can get a new one.
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mattsz

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Reply #11 on: April 20, 2015, 11:16:47 am
I hope that solves your problem - an easy fix.  Tracking down wiring issues can be a headache... A couple of days ago, my neutral light went on the blink ( ::) ): it only works if the bars are turned about halfway between straight and left full-stop.  So I'm assuming it's either the wiring to the socket getting pulled around, or a break in the harness somewhere where it flexes over the stem on its way to the nacelle, where I don't really relish trying to dig around.  It's handy when it's working, but surprising how much I don't miss it when it's gone...


gremlin

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Reply #12 on: April 20, 2015, 02:05:30 pm
Blairio
Unfortunately I don't have another bullet guy close by, but I did use a regular compressed air can, I will b able to get some contact cleaner tomorrow.
I still need to identify where the issue lies though. and if All fails then I can get a new one.


Here's the thing .....   according to the published schematic that came with my B5 (2011 model) I should never be able to spin the starter, without pulling in the clutch.

However, I believe my clutch switch may be mounted in a way that it's button is not completely pressed when the clutch handle is relaxed.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with your clutch switch.
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Bulletman

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Reply #13 on: April 22, 2015, 08:46:23 pm
Follow Up:
@cstorckiii @ Blairio
It was not the Clutch Switch...but your suggestion on the cleaning of the switch worked like magic.. It resolved the problem and "so far" it's now starting flawlessly.
@gremlin.
I dropped the bike on its left side whilst on it  ;D.
I "thought"  ??? I had the side stand down ...
That kinda bent the clutch handle and the holder It slides into a little, I was thinking that was what may have been also causing the unit to not close all the way and hence not completing the circuit..but after the cleaning it's working fine.
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SteveThackery

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Reply #14 on: April 23, 2015, 10:19:09 pm

Here's the thing .....   according to the published schematic that came with my B5 (2011 model) I should never be able to spin the starter, without pulling in the clutch.


Hey, gremlin, that's fascinating, because it's definitely different from the wiring diagram I've got.

I don't know if you have the facilities, but would it be feasible for you to scan the wiring diagram and post it here?

As you know, Scalyback did a great job on one version of the wiring, and I drew some circuit diagrams from it.  Perhaps if something similar could be done with your wiring, that would all be to the greater good.
Meteor 350

Previous:
'14 B5
'06 ElectraX (Good bike, had no trouble at all)
'02 500ES (Fully "Hitchcocked" - 535, cams, piston, etc - and still a piece of junk)

...plus loads of other bikes: German, British, Japanese, Italian, East European.