[mattsz]

I posted an open case pic in the "What did you do to your Enfield" thread a couple days ago.

I noticed that.  Do you have the "new" second drain plug at the forward end of your engine?

[singhg5]

Woofhound:

I thought that you had 7" headlight, so my previous post was specific to that.

If you have 5&3/4" headlight, which is on the US imports of RE, then ARIZONI has described very well how the light can be adjusted. If I may add a picture to that and Arizoni can confirm if my picture shows the spring he is talking about, which bottoms out and should be removed or a smaller spring be installed there.

[cstorckiii]

I posted an open case pic in the "What did you do to your Enfield" thread a couple days ago.

Um... no. 2011.

[suitcasejefferson]

I just finished the initial 300 mile break in period on my C5 bullet. After changing the oil and all O-rings I noted that the oil was between the full and low marks and ran the engine just long enough to get it warm. I then let the bike cool for a few minutes and checked the oil. It then showed below the low level... I waited til morning and checked it again. Still at the low level. I added enough oil to bring it between the two marks again. After running it this time the oil returned to normal operating level.
Today, after riding the bike for about 100 miles, I checked it again. Again, there is no oil showing on through the glass.

Am I losing oil?
Should I add more oil?
And is this common???

Also, my headlight points up at about a ten degree angle, so I get literally no illumination on the road. I moved the light adjustment screw as far as I could (before it bottomed out) and noticed nominal change in the projection of light. This makes it impossible to ride in the dark unless on a well lighted highway.

Has anyone come across this issue? If so, how did you remedy it?

Many thanks,
Woofhound

I had exactly the same problem with the oil in my bike. 3 days after an oil change, it was still losing oil. I kept filling it back up. Finally it stayed full. My answer was to keep track of the oil I was putting in it to keep it full. What I initially put in to fill it to the sight glass to fill it to full,  then what I had to pour in the next 2 times to bring it to the full level to where it stayed that way. I put all that in on the first time. This is NOT a modern engine. It is easy to tell that just by looking at both the inside and outside. But, if it is anywhere near level, it should show the proper oil level. Check it on the centerstand. That should do it. If it is way off level, you may have to raise one end or one side with shims.

People point out the EFI and say it must be modern. You could engineer EFI onto a 1903 Harley, but that would definitely not make it modern.

[stevew]

My solution to both problems was to plug the crankcase breather nipple to my air box & re-route the breather hose out the rear of the bike. This also doubles as a self adjusting oil level control. if I put in to much - it blows it out its rear.

Craig, got any pictures of this?  Did you re-route to the very rear of the bike or did you exit in front of the rear wheel?  Thinking i might like to do the same. ATM i reckon that a long tube around the rear mudguard and exiting at the bottom of the rear number plate may be the best option to keep any oil away from the tyre and making a mess of the bike.
Does much come out in general riding?

BTW what's the ID of the flexi tube that is needed?

[SteveThackery]

People point out the EFI and say it must be modern. You could engineer EFI onto a 1903 Harley, but that would definitely not make it modern.

I agree with that, and it disappoints me.  The engine is, essentially, new, but for some reason they haven't made it modern.  They could definitely have kept the long-stroke, low-revving, chuggy-chug goodness whilst still building it like a Honda engine.  I don't understand why they didn't. 

[singhg5]

I agree with that, and it disappoints me.  The engine is, essentially, new, but for some reason they haven't made it modern.  They could definitely have kept the long-stroke, low-revving, chuggy-chug goodness whilst still building it like a Honda engine.  I don't understand why they didn't.

Well, this reminded me of an old anecdote of many years ago. The details are lost over the years, may be someone remembers it better. But the crux of the story is this. Sony had made magnetic cassette tapes for recording sound. An American businessman wanted to sell them in US. He asked Sony to make tapes for him and he will sell them as he pleases, under no label or a catchy name label he likes - whatever sells the most to make as much profit. He got the reply "We make Sony, not cassette tapes."

Just turn the whole story around and you get something like this... Steve an Englishman asks RE to make Hondas............(fill in the sentences with your desires.....wishes.....proposals.......) and you get a reply.......

"Chennai makes chuggy-chug clickety-clack Royal Enfield, not Honda"  !

[pmanaz1973]

I used to obsess about my oil level in this bike and the sight glass used to drive me nuts.  Now I just drain all the oil out that I can (2014 with front and back drain), clean the screen, soak a new oil filter, pop it in and button her up and add two quarts.

My understanding is that these motors are not sensitive to minor oil differences and if it is low enough to be an issue it would not be in the sight glass and the rockers would clack like crazy.  If you overfill, you'll be spending $21.95 plus shipping on a new air filter...so I've been sticking with a "two quarts and that's plenty" sort of a approach.

Most times on a level surface my oil level is at the top mark in the top 3/4 of the sight glass.  I found a level spot in my shop and marked it with a sharpie - traced where the center stand is when level so I can reproduce the control.  After a decent run I set it on the center stand let it idle on that level spot for one minute on my watch and shut it off.  I then take off my gear and give it a minute and look - usually it's right on, sometimes I need a minute more and its fine.

I do however, change the oil at 2000 miles maximum and look for any sign that it's loosing oil.

[Arizoni]

singhg5
Sorry it took me so long to answer your question about the offending spring in the headlight but yes, that is exactly the spring that was causing the problem with adjusting the headlight.

[singhg5]

singhg5
Sorry it took me so long to answer your question about the offending spring in the headlight but yes, that is exactly the spring that was causing the problem with adjusting the headlight.

Thanks, Jim.

[suitcasejefferson]

Well, this reminded me of an old anecdote of many years ago. The details are lost over the years, may be someone remembers it better. But the crux of the story is this. Sony had made magnetic cassette tapes for recording sound. An American businessman wanted to sell them in US. He asked Sony to make tapes for him and he will sell them as he pleases, under no label or a catchy name label he likes - whatever sells the most to make as much profit. He got the reply "We make Sony, not cassette tapes."

Just turn the whole story around and you get something like this... Steve an Englishman asks RE to make Hondas............(fill in the sentences with your desires.....wishes.....proposals.......) and you get a reply.......

"Chennai makes chuggy-chug clickety-clack Royal Enfield, not Honda"  !

I can't disagree with that, but it would be nice to have a Royal Enfield that still looked the same, sounded the same, felt the same, but had the reliability of a Honda. You could cruise at 75 mph for as long as you wanted, it would never break down, and last 100,000 miles.

Of course that is not going to happen. Neither Honda nor any other Japanese company would build it. They have to inject their own personality (which at the moment seems to be NO personality) into everything they build. Triumph made their new Bonneville "modern", and look at the results. It sounds and feels like a sewing machine. And the beauty of the '60s engine has been lost. It looks like the whole bike has gained a couple hundred pounds. I'm just hoping RE doesn't "go modern" like Triumph did.

[stevew]

I can't disagree with that, but it would be nice to have a Royal Enfield that still looked the same, sounded the same, felt the same, but had the reliability of a Honda. You could cruise at 75 mph for as long as you wanted, it would never break down, and last 100,000 miles.

Guess we have come a fair way towards that with the UCE.  As a new owner the Jap reliability was what i was looking for too.  R/E seem to be on their way to that.........maybe not there yet 

[adi-4004]

We must remember that the  connecting rod chamber is closed to lubricate the best crankshaft and piston.
The oil is then catapulted from the crankshaft rear to the transmission gears.
From the picture you can see how much oil remains on the chamber connecting rod, that is, 900 c.c.!
This can cause errors in the reading level.

How did you find out the amount of oil in the connecting rod chamber?

[Mandar_C500]

Hi,
   I have changed the oil at 29.6K KM and was able to re-fill it with 2.2Ltr. Oil level is  at the top of the glass window.
I have noticed a drop in the oil level after riding hard for 150 KM. I have noticed an drop in oil level (which I have reported here) earlier, however I have noticed that it drops only if I ride hard, Normal riding is fine.

Do I need to worry? planning for a long ride (LEH) in June this year.

Regards
Mandar

[pmanaz1973]

I would continue to use the method you mentioned - just be sure and check the bike in the SAME spot each time.  If not, you are not getting a consistent  control reading.   

I would advise against overfilling.  You would see quite a bit of smoke or obvious leaks if you bike was consuming oil.  I suspect that after a "hard" ride your oil has been heated and circulated into the dark neither regions of your bike's guts and just takes a bit longer to settle into the sight glass.  If the oil is anywhere between the marks I wouldn't worry about it. 

Overfill and you get to experience what a clogged air filter is all about plus $21.5 and some shipping- A few guys on the forum route their breather hoses out of their airboxes and out the back of their bikes.  I just recommend not overfilling. 

Less is more.  If your oil is low enough to be an issue your valve train would click and clack to the point you would be horrified.