[High On Octane]

Nice work!  Did you have to modify the jam nut because a socket will not fit up thru there onto the nut?

[cafeman]

Nice work!  Did you have to modify the jam nut because a socket will not fit up thru there onto the nut?

Exactly. The spring sud hole diameter is 9mm,  the jam nut takes a 7mm socket.It might be possible to turn in a lathe or grind it down one of those cheap 1/4" drive sockets that you see for a few bucks in clearance bins. All I did is flipped the nut so you thread it on "nylon" first, , used a dremwl with cutoff wheel to grind sharp edged slots. Like Peter Brady said of his volcano: "It Works!"

[High On Octane]

That's what I thought looking at the pics, you basically made your own spline drive.  My boss has a small lathe at work and I know I have an extra 7mm, so I'll see if I can turn down the socket far enough to fit inside the damper tube.  If that works, how much tension do you think is on that nut, 8-12#?  I'm thinking in regards as to how thin I can actually make the wall of the socket.  You say the ID is 9mm, a 7mm nut is 8.1mm corner to corner, which means the wall can only be about .25mm thick to work.  I wonder if the socket will fail before it holds anything.

[cafeman]

That's what I thought looking at the pics, you basically made your own spline drive.  My boss has a small lathe at work and I know I have an extra 7mm, so I'll see if I can turn down the socket far enough to fit inside the damper tube.  If that works, how much tension do you think is on that nut, 8-12#?  I'm thinking in regards as to how thin I can actually make the wall of the socket.  You say the ID is 9mm, a 7mm nut is 8.1mm corner to corner, which means the wall can only be about .25mm thick to work.  I wonder if the socket will fail before it holds anything.

The torque on the jam nut to snug it is really minimal, I made a few different tips with those prongs, 2 prongs at first and cranked it till they twisted off. The nut was tight enough to not worry, others I tried tightening a few nuts and then used a box wrench to undo etc. With the nylon piece on that nut it holds pretty damn tight, and all you really need to do is snug the nut to ensure the bolt doesn't back off. One could also somehow pin the emulator to the adapter to the rebound valve so it doesn't rotate when adjusting and then there would be no need for the tube and you'd gain additional diameter and have to turn down a socket a little less. I think there would be sufficient material on the socket for it to still be strong enough to snug the nut.

[cafeman]

Just an update, I ended up drilling a second low speed damping bleed hole on the valve plate as suggested by the Racetech tuning guide
and have the emulator spring preload now set at 2 turns. With about 220cc of atf fluid I am pretty happy with the results. A touch more supple at slower speeds and slightly less firm at speed than after the initial installation where I had one bleed hole and 2 1/2 turns of preload. Ideally I would go with a slightly softer emulator spring and adjust the preload to where it was in the middle of its adjustment range, about 3-4 turns of preload so I could firm it up more or soften it more. But as is I will leave it and play with fork oil levels for the time being. Overall, a highly recommended mod IMO.