Author Topic: Chain link  (Read 3508 times)

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mattb

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on: January 05, 2015, 12:55:19 am
Hi All,

I got a 530 DID chain to fit to my newish B5 before going on tour, and I cut the bloody thing too short (God knows how). So I cut an extra piece from the left over chain, and ordered another link with a clip, but...they sent me a link with a rivet instead, as per the image below (ignore the o-rings, mine is non-o-ring, as is necessary for the B5). I don't have time to re-order and do not have a rivet tool. Is there a trick for riveting the clip using ordinary tools?

Thanks,
Matt

Ps The reason I did not use the link from the current, new stock chain on my bike, is because the DID chain is slightly wider and will not take it. Does this matter, in the context of the fact that we cannot use o-ring chains and the like on a B5 because they are too wide? I'm assuming not, given that it is only a very slight fraction wider.
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motomataya

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Reply #1 on: January 05, 2015, 01:19:26 am
Have your helper hold something heavy like a hammer against the back side of the link. Use a sharp chisel and hammer to deform the ends of the pins.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #2 on: January 05, 2015, 02:02:47 am
+1.  A hammer or dolly held behind and then just hammer the tops of the pins until the deform enough to hold the plate on.  Make sure to grease the whole thing before assembly and press the plate on with some pliers before you peen the ends.

Scott


High On Octane

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Reply #3 on: January 05, 2015, 02:25:43 am
Lay the chain flat on concrete and use a center punch to flange the rivets.
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suitcasejefferson

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Reply #4 on: January 05, 2015, 06:16:03 am
You have the wrong master link. You need the clip on type for non o-ring chains. There is a tool designed to set the rivets on that type of master link, but they are not cheap. I do not trust makeshift ways of doing it. If it isn't done right the chain will come apart. You can also get clip on links for o-ring chains, but I don't use them. They are hard to get on right (again a special tool is recommended) and the o-rings try to force them off. The 3 times I remember replacing an o-ring chain, I had a mechanic rivet the chain together off the bike, then took the rear suspension apart (which needed lubricating anyway) to install it. I don't take chances with chains. If a chain comes apart and jams in the rear wheel, you are going down, hard. At highway speed it could very well be fatal.
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mattb

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Reply #5 on: January 05, 2015, 10:26:23 am
Thanks All.

Suitcasejefferson you're right, the bloody link doesn't fit the chain! What a saga!

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hortoncode3

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Reply #6 on: January 05, 2015, 12:03:27 pm
Buy the right tool for the right job.
FYI, I would suck it up and buy the right chain at the correct length. I don't know why you think you can't use O-ring chain, I've used it for years on my G5...it's better chain and more reliable. It's not cheap, and there's a reason why...you don't have to worry about it wearing out in 5000 miles and taking the sprockets with it..
Some things you just can't cheap out on and a chain is one of them. Who whats to replace chain out on the road? I've done it and I'm not anxious about doing it ever again.


The Old Coot

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Reply #7 on: January 06, 2015, 12:18:49 am
I have a rivet tool set for chains and is make the job easy, but wasn't cheap to buy. Without that set I do believe it would be a nightmare. And if the link fails it can be even worse. I got to work on a bike that had the chain break and stuff itself into the case. Motor was toast. BUT that's better than it wrapping up in the rear wheel and stopping everything and causing you to crash.

I'd have to say the best thing would be get the right part even if you have to park the bike for a bit...safer in the long run for both of you.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #8 on: January 06, 2015, 12:37:00 am
Lay the chain flat on concrete and use a center punch to flange the rivets.

Duh!  Good point Scotty. You can add the extra length you need off the bike and peen the rivet master easily on a hard floor.  Then put the chain on the bike using the clip master.  Once the rivet link is on it's as good as any other link.  Lots if light taps to peen the link are better than a few hard hits.

Scott



High On Octane

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Reply #9 on: January 06, 2015, 12:55:40 am
I have to admit, I accidentally did this to my new Tsubaki last summer.  I have 2 master links side by side connected by a single inner link, hasn't been an issue.  ;)
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suitcasejefferson

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Reply #10 on: January 06, 2015, 02:08:06 am
Due to their being larger, you cannot put an o-ring chain on a B5 without going one tooth smaller on the front sprocket, something I decided not to do. I consider the B5 to be perfectly geared already. Cruising at an indicated 60 mph, it feels and sounds perfect.

Non o-ring chains can last forever IF properly maintained. I've gotten 20,000 miles out of them. I'm almost at 6,000 miles on my 2013 B5, and the chain is doing fine. Unless it starts wearing real fast, it should easily have another 6,000 miles left in it, and that is the stock oem chain. You can buy MUCH better non o-ring chains. I actually enjoy lubing my chain and checking the adjustment every 200-300 miles. Very satisfying, and I always know what is going on with it. Just another way of interacting with the bike.
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Sectorsteve

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Reply #11 on: January 06, 2015, 03:15:28 am
Mate just take it to a friendly bike shop and get them to fix it for ya. When I bought my new chain recently I got them to make it the length I needed then I just used my old chain to pull the new chain through and clipped it with pliers. Job done.


Arizoni

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Reply #12 on: January 07, 2015, 04:10:11 am
While everyone is talking about chains, the rear drive sprocket only has 17 teeth.
That is smaller than the 18 tooth drive sprocket used on the motorcycles with the 18" rear whee.
This larger drive sprocket makes the chain on my G5 a 101 pitch (link) chain.

101, being an odd number results in the rear drive chain having a half-link in it.

All of the new chains I found that are made by places like DID have even numbers of links and I didn't see where new half-links were offered so I decided to try using the 102 link chain.

It worked but I had to rotate the adjusting snails almost to the large end to get the right chain adjustment.
Based on this, I'm sure a 100 link chain would be too short for my G5.
(There's also the old adage, "You can always cut a board shorter but it's next to impossible to cut it longer.")
Jim
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gremlin

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Reply #13 on: January 13, 2015, 12:20:01 am
Lots if light taps to peen the link are better than a few hard hits.

Scott

Agree  whole-heartedly !

Tapping is just as good as using your press, or, bench vise.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #14 on: January 13, 2015, 12:25:55 am
A lot less convenient when 8" off the floor, sideways, and under a muffler.  I never regretted buying a good chain tool ;)  Still, good to know how to do it with a hammer and rock if I need to.