[ace.cafe]

Cool thanks ace!
I set the ignition timing to stock, is this a good point to start with?

Yes, just get it started, and then you can ping time it in top gear on a moderate hill for max advance.  That should do it, as long as it doesn't kick back when starting. If it kicks back, then retard it a hair until it doesn't kick back.

[Mr.Mazza]

Yes, just get it started, and then you can ping time it in top gear on a moderate hill for max advance.  That should do it, as long as it doesn't kick back when starting. If it kicks back, then retard it a hair until it doesn't kick back.

Sweet as!
Guy called and the engine is all assembled and torqed and timed.
Exhaust needs to be fettled with, some wiring sorted and master cylinder assembled.

[Mr.Mazza]

Update!
Almost there, just a few exhaust brackets need modifying and a new throttle cable (Brand new english one had a broken strand!) And get the roll starter so I can prime the engine and bleed the front brake.
Ended up ditching thd rearsets as I didnt like how I sat.

And add a few links to the chain and shes riding.

[ace.cafe]

Getting very close now.
Exciting!
 

[Mr.Mazza]

Alright went up there and got a brand new DID chain fitted, so thats done.
Got carby and cable assembled, kicked it around a million times until I had oil everywhere, tank on and tried to start it, second she I got a kickback, retarded timing, less kickback, fully retarded still kicking back.
After kicking myself I remembed the battery would be pretty low, sure enough it is 

I'll charge it and try again, should work

[Ice]

It will. 

[Mr.Mazza]

It will.

Any explanations why low voltage causes advanced timing on start?

Also is it normal for the engine to be a little difficult to move with fresh rings and bore?

[ace.cafe]

If it is a Boyer,  that is a known behavior.

Friction of rings on fresh bore make it harder to move. This also makes a lot of heat in the early running,  so that is why I say to keep the early rides short to avoid overheating.

If you have had many kick backs, then you must check for oil flow when you get it going.  Kick backs can damage the oil pump drive spindle and worm gear.

[Mr.Mazza]

If it is a Boyer,  that is a known behavior.

Friction of rings on fresh bore make it harder to move. This also makes a lot of heat in the early running,  so that is why I say to keep the early rides short to avoid overheating.

If you have had many kick backs, then you must check for oil flow when you get it going.  Kick backs can damage the oil pump drive spindle and worm gear.

Cool so my minds thinking right, yes only about 4 kickbacks so ill double check the oil gear.
Gonna use a roll starter to help the first few fireups

[Adrian II]

The Mk3 Boyers were known for this, if you have the Mk4 version it is supposed to have been improved in response to some ex-Boyer employees bringing out their own electronic ignition kit (the Pazon Surefire), which didn't have the low voltage full advance problem!

A.

[Mr.Mazza]

Alright the only thing to happen was me getting the bike and all the leftover shit out of Guys shed, was a littls heartbreaking but now its at my mates factory nearby. Got a workday happening Monday night so should running.

[ace.cafe]

Looking forward to hearing when it gets going!
 

[Mr.Mazza]

Alright so I've lost confidence in whats been done to the bike so far but I'll roll with it.
Two questionz, master cylinder piston looks like it doesnt come back far enough with the lever in place to allow proper operstion, lever off and a screwdriver I can, but holding pressure is poor, the hell?

Also setting up timing without a timing wheel, how do?

[ace.cafe]

What ignition do you have?

I don't know about the brake issue.
What kind of brake was put on it?

[Mr.Mazza]

What ignition do you have?

I don't know about the brake issue.
What kind of brake was put on it?

Its a Boyer ignition, I put the test light between negative on coil and battery yes?

A AVL brake im led to believe.