[Neofight]

Hello everyone!
    I've decided on a fireball project. I was just wondering what other upgrades I should do and the associated costs. I was hoping other members with fireballs could tell me what other mods are necessary, the costs of them, and maybe other useful things I should do. I need to know costs and a list so that I can prioritize what I should do first
Thanks

[Hoosier Bullet]

Good tires are at the top of the list.  You will be able to go a lot faster so need to be able to corner and brake better than you can with the stock skidmasters.  Avon AM26 90/90/19 front and 100/90/19 rear are good picks.  Check bike bandit. 

Along with that the disc brake upgrade for the front.  Most of the fireballs didn't do that so it is personal preference.  Kit from hitchcock's for pricing.

Right foot shift and left foot brake.  This is a must for a four speed.  Your rear brake will work way better, at the minimum.  Kit from hitchcock's for pricing.

Good fork oil in the proper quantity and I like the softer fork springs from hitchcock's.  These are cheap.  But you have to take the front end apart. 

Electronic ignition.  Boyer MKIV from hitchcock's. 

This is my personal short list.

[1 Thump]

All the above plus:

1. A tachometer
2. Mikuni TM 32 carburetor
3. Unrestricted exhaust and air filter
4. Samrat Rockers (maybe the shotgun rockers, if they are ready by then). This, I think, is optional.
5. Larger sprocket, unless you want to do power wheelies
6. Improved drive chain

[Mike_D]

Hagon rear shocks - ~$200
 A Shorai lithium battery would be sweet (I have one, so light) - ~$150
Ceramic wheel bearings (also, for the hub) - check ebay
Ceramic trans bearings - try vxb.com
A loose 1/4 ceramic  ball bearing to go between the clutch push rods
A good drive chain (D.I.D. works) - $40
Bosch Blue coil

You'll also need a Mikuni TM32 carb and the proper jets.  You can get a pretty good deal on the Mikuni from Amazon.com.  Jets from Niche Cycle.

I have all of the above on my Clubman build.  Plus a disc break, RS shift, Boyer Mark IV ignition and goldstar exhaust.  I love it.

edit: Oh yea, bigger sprocket.  I have an 18-tooth.  It's great.
edit2: Yep, tach too.  You need a tach

[flyboy]

Are you 4 speed or 5 speed?
If 4 speed...definately do the right side shift kit. AND add the close ratio gear set. And add sealed bearings so you can run 90wt in the gear box. I upgraded to the ceramic sealed bearings, but you can just use the standard steel sealed bearing set. I think the RS kit is $300+/- and the CR gears are $350+/-. Sealed bearings, I'm thinking $75 for the kit...the ceramic were twice that.
I can't say enough about the CR gear set!! Well worth the time and money.
I think the other major upgrades will present themselves when Fireballing...upgraded clutch pack, 18 tooth sprocket, free-flow silencer, etc.
Good luck...and WELCOME!!

[chumma7]

Shoot me an email at ace.chumma AT gmail DOT com

Hello everyone!
    I've decided on a fireball project. I was just wondering what other upgrades I should do and the associated costs. I was hoping other members with fireballs could tell me what other mods are necessary, the costs of them, and maybe other useful things I should do. I need to know costs and a list so that I can prioritize what I should do first
Thanks

[flyboy]

2007?? Are you EFI or carb? If carb, go with Mikuni TM32 Flatslide as others suggested, PLUS the Ace air canister and alloy manifold.

[ace.cafe]

2007?? Are you EFI or carb? If carb, go with Mikuni TM32 Flatslide as others suggested, PLUS the Ace air canister and alloy manifold.

It's an iron barrel w/carb.
I spoke with him earlier. He wants owner/user input.

Tom

[Neofight]

Hopefully a 2007 carbie, if it's still there. I was trying to get an idea of total cost, where to start with mods, and what the best ones are. For me it'll be a rigid kit and high pipe. Where should I go from there?!? Can't get over the info in Toms head and how accessible he and these mods are!
Thanks all

[Neofight]

!

[da punds]

Your budget will be proportional to what you want :
My list : Hitchcocks rigid kit
             Big head super Fireball treatment
             Ace piston
             34mm TM Mikuni
             Power Arc ignition
             All the other bits to make iy look how you want it.

Here's my one :

[Mike_D]

Man, that thing is sick!  Anyway, we could get a video of it running?

[Neofight]

That's the ticket! What a nice bike. Big head super fireball =$£€¥. Maybe I'll get there eventually. I like your rear fender stays- where'd you get that set up? And what are the mods back there?

[da punds]

A link to it running https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D5O3GApyMs

The stays were originally a rack but I was planning to put a bum pad on, and the rack had to go, so they are basically shortened.

[Neofight]

That's a great vid

[Neofight]

Do you ever wish you had more brakes? Disc brakes make sense, but don't look as right as drum IMHO

[Hoosier Bullet]

Function over form every time.  The rest of the bike looks really good.  A wart won't hurt it. 

The disc works way better, no matter how much effort is put into improving the drum.  Plus it is pretty cheap if you lace your own wheel. 

[Mike_D]

Great video, da punds thanks!

[Chuck D]

Hmmm...
How's about new, high quality main bearings, a trued and balanced crank with a steel con rod (w/alpha roller bearing OR the ACE "Bronze Bush"), restored breather function, alloy barrel, plus all that other stuff.

[Mr.Mazza]

Hmmm...
How's about new, high quality main bearings, a trued and balanced crank with a steel con rod (w/alpha roller bearing OR the ACE "Bronze Bush"), restored breather function, alloy barrel, plus all that other stuff.

This!
This is the basis of any upgrade to a Bullet, from there you can work the shit outta your cylinder head
Basically my plan anyway, which is just over a month away!

[ace.cafe]

This!
This is the basis of any upgrade to a Bullet, from there you can work the shit outta your cylinder head
Basically my plan anyway, which is just over a month away!

Yes. That is what will keep it all together when you put the hp into it.

[rep_movsd]

Here's what I have on mine (* or plan to have soon)

1) All the ACE stuff  (Piston, cams, head, airfilter, carrillo rod, NTN bearings)
2) High output oil pump
3) Thunderbird 500 front end ( the 41 mm forks are amazing ) - the GT uses the same except there's place to fit a fork brace
4) Michelin Anakee2 front tire - There's no better tire
5) Greasehouse Customs Aluminum silencer - it's not ideal, but gives a balance between noise and performance. I'm going to get them to make me an open bore one. It looks fantabulous, quality better than what you may see on a Harley
6) Bosch coil
7*) Boyer EI
8*) Hagons
9*) Greasehouse aluminum box section swingarm
10*) Michelin Sirac 18" rear tire
11*) Greasehouse rear sprocket with extra teeth to offset the 19" to 18" rear wheel ratio change
12*) Completely custom homebuilt MOSFET based wiring and switching
13*) Seat with inbuilt toolbox, maybe I'll discard the existing toolboxes
14*) Composite mudguards
15*) AVL Thunderbird rear subframe
16*) Aluminum alloy stand
17*) CB 750 like tall fuel tank (24 liter) with aircraft style lid
18*) Twin clocks
19*) Projector headlamp from TB 500
20*) LED based 2x1100 lumen extra lighting mounted on crashguard
21*) Extra short handlebar - I've always preferred short straight bars
22*) Slightly rearset pegs with gear linkage for a 1 up 4 down shift pattern
23*) Alloy rims - maybe I'll get greedy and get some rim that can take tubeless tires while still having spokes
24*) Accelerometer based brake light, 30 Hz brake light flasher (known to increase visibility)
25*) Lightweight battery
26*) Brembo disc and brakes from the ContiGT
27*) Fork brace
28*) LED indicators
29*) Ratio rockers
30*) ACE GP head (pipe dream)

Whew! That's a lot of "TODOs" 
 
 

[1 Thump]

You will also need to upgrade the clutch to reliably put all th epower to the wheels. I have the Newby clutch, but there are less expensive ways to accomplish that too.

[Mr.Mazza]

You will also need to upgrade the clutch to reliably put all th epower to the wheels. I have the Newby clutch, but there are less expensive ways to accomplish that too.

A cheaper way Im usinv untill I fit belt drive is some Mv. Agusta springs and better plates, itll handle 10 more hp which will be plenty until I get my head and belt drive money!

[ERC]

A link to it running https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D5O3GApyMs

The stays were originally a rack but I was planning to put a bum pad on, and the rack had to go, so they are basically shortened.

Christ da punds the traffic over there is awful does anybody else have a vehicle? I don't think you'll have to worry about Road Rage unless one of those sheep go after you. I've got a setup just like yours with the hard tail. I love the way it rides better than my others with shocks. Great video. Good luck with your new project.  ERC

[Neofight]

So how much $$ do you folks have in your fireball?
Ballpark?

[Mike_D]

That seems to be the million dollar question.  All builds are different and no one wants to throw out a price that will either be too high and scare you away or too low and give you the wrong idea on how much it'll end up costing you.  Some of the prices are set and you can get those through Chumma or Tom.  The rest depends on how much work you are willing to put in and what kind of extras you want.  There are, frankly, many ways to go.  Contact Chumma or Tom and you'll get a ballpark idea.

As for me, I ended up pulling my engine and bringing it to Chumma -- that saved me some cash.  I also started with some parts needed for the fireball (tm32, exhaust, boyer, disc brake) so I didn't start from a clean slate as you appear to be doing.  What I've spent on my bike has been spread over 2 years.  Honestly, I have to idea what the total is.

[Neofight]

Yeah, I just wanted a ballpark. I didn't want to be rude and ask, but I kind of need to know what I'm getting into so that my expectations are realistic. I understand I can spread it out over some time. I just don't want to get involved in this, spend all my budget on the kit and then realize that the clutch tires brakes suspension are over loaded.
     Tom gave me a ballpark for his end, I'd just like one for all the other bits and bobs.

[Chuck D]

Yeah, I just wanted a ballpark. I didn't want to be rude and ask, but I kind of need to know what I'm getting into so that my expectations are realistic. I understand I can spread it out over some time. I just don't want to get involved in this, spend all my budget on the kit and then realize that the clutch tires brakes suspension are over loaded.
     Tom gave me a ballpark for his end, I'd just like one for all the other bits and bobs.

I lost track after 10grand.
And by the way, I can eat fifty eggs!

[Neofight]

Ok, that's something I can go on. How much was your donor bike?
    What was the most involved labor process? One that someone may not be able to do themselves?
     How much is an electronic ignition?
What components can I ditch to get the weight down? I'd really like a lightweight bike.
    What special tools should I try to pick up?

[High On Octane]

So how much $$ do you folks have in your fireball?
Ballpark?

Any kind of performance application on a bike, you might as well budget for a minimum of $3000.  If you are planning on a donor bike, plan on another $1500 or so.  Keep in mind, this will be for the DRIVETRAIN ONLY.  Stuff adds up really quick when you start doing cafe seats, clip on bars, performance tires, good drive chain, ect.

[solg]

I lost track after 10grand.
And by the way, I can eat fifty eggs!

So, Chuck.  Is the word egg New York nomenclature for grand?
I am a bit south of Chuck, I destroyed all evidence after 5K. ( I'm married) My "donor" was new off the showroom another 5k. 

[ace.cafe]

Essentially, the builder/owner decides. The sky is the limit.
It is important to remember that once you venture into modifications, you are not in India parts and labor prices anymore. The whole point is to overcome the limitations that were "provided" in the factory build.
We do what we can to really make the most bang for the buck, but we are not going to be able to compete on price with India. What we do is make it worth the money it costs.

[Chuck D]

Ok, that's something I can go on. How much was your donor bike?
    What was the most involved labor process? One that someone may not be able to do themselves?
     How much is an electronic ignition?
What components can I ditch to get the weight down? I'd really like a lightweight bike.
    What special tools should I try to pick up?

Well, my "donor bike" was just my bike bike (a 2006 Bullet65) that cost me $4000 new.
I imagine that the most involved labor process involved building and truing the new crank. But actually, that question would be better directed to Chumma as he did the work.
If memory serves, my Boyer ignition cost about $140.
I think your greatest weight savings will come by ditching the electric starter and related gearing. That's a good 25lbs. right there.
An alloy barrel in place of the cast iron one is a must in any case and will net you about another 10lbs. in shed weight.
Also any free flowing exhaust will be much lighter than the stock item.
If you really want to go to town, alloy rims (Excell or Sun for example) not only save un-sprung weight but rolling weight as well.
As for special tools, I'd say get only the ones whose use you have mastered. 

[Chuck D]

So, Chuck.  Is the word egg New York nomenclature for grand?
I am a bit south of Chuck, I destroyed all evidence after 5K. ( I'm married) My "donor" was new off the showroom another 5k.

The egg comment was a "Cool Hand Luke" reference prompted by the OP's signature line.
How's your bike runnin'?

[Neofight]

Nice catch on the tag line, Chuck D.
    In regards to farming out work and special tools needed, I'm totally going to utilize all that the ACE guys can provide. I meant more in terms of- pulling the rotor(?) removing the crank, splitting the cases...
     Is there a better drum for the front wheel that fits, provides much more stopping power than the original? Fontana/ Grimeca or MZ or some vintage looking Jap part? I realize discs are better but they just don't jive with the Brit single, hard tail aesthetic I'm going for.
     Tom, you don't need to explain the superiority of your parts- I'm sold! The level of performance provided is comparably pretty cheap which is why I'm getting into this. I want some thing I can hot rod. The accessibility is so tangible. I spoke with some Manx builders and they quoted $50k for a road bike! Unattainable for this average schmoe. ACE products seem geared for the proletariat cognoscenti.

[solg]

Ok Chuck- I  guess what we have here is failure to communicate! I'll email you with an update. I did get the reference but the baffon in me could not resist.

[High On Octane]

I lost track after 10grand.
And by the way, I can eat fifty eggs!

I know that feeling.  I didn't even really do any performance mods at all on my twin restoration and I stopped trying to add after $2500.  I have an envelope that is over 2" thick with receipts.  I'm scared to add them up, I just keep adding receipts instead. 

[Neofight]

I've got I a 5"x5"x6" box of receipts and invoices for my 1974 Moto Guzzi, and it still needs work. I'd like to get this fireball up and going before I tackle the Guzzi so I'm not with out a bike

[Chuck D]

Ok Chuck- I  guess what we have here is failure to communicate! I'll email you with an update. I did get the reference but the baffon in me could not resist.

Best getyer mind right.

[Chuck D]

I know that feeling.  I didn't even really do any performance mods at all on my twin restoration and I stopped trying to add after $2500.  I have an envelope that is over 2" thick with receipts.  I'm scared to add them up, I just keep adding receipts instead. 

Burn It!
The tank looks great BTW.

[ace.cafe]

Regarding the drum brakes, the Fontana, Oldani, Ceriani, and other various magnesium racing drum brakes are in the $2000+ neighborhood, plus whatever wheel/spoke job you do. You will probably need a suitable front end for it to fit, such as Ceriani, which will run you at least another $2500. They are NOT affordable, but they look great!
The Grimeca looks pretty good too, but weighs a ton and a half.
Probably the Suzuki 750 Water Buffalo front brake is the most affordable, but is also very heavy.

On the other hand, you can buy a RE disc brake package and complete new front end from an Electra X, or from a Thunderbird, for a few hundred bucks, which will out-brake any of the aforementioned drum brakes at probably 1/4 of the weight.
You can buy fork cartridge emulators from RaceTech or YSS to fit RE forks, and get hi-tech suspension for pretty cheap too.

It all depends on how much you want to spend, and what you want.

[High On Octane]

Burn It!
The tank looks great BTW.

Hahahahaha!!!!!!!  Maybe add them and THEN burn it!      And thanks!   

[Chuck D]

Nice catch on the tag line, Chuck D.
    In regards to farming out work and special tools needed, I'm totally going to utilize all that the ACE guys can provide. I meant more in terms of- pulling the rotor(?) removing the crank, splitting the cases...
     Is there a better drum for the front wheel that fits, provides much more stopping power than the original? Fontana/ Grimeca or MZ or some vintage looking Jap part? I realize discs are better but they just don't jive with the Brit single, hard tail aesthetic I'm going for.
     Tom, you don't need to explain the superiority of your parts- I'm sold! The level of performance provided is comparably pretty cheap which is why I'm getting into this. I want some thing I can hot rod. The accessibility is so tangible. I spoke with some Manx builders and they quoted $50k for a road bike! Unattainable for this average schmoe. ACE products seem geared for the proletariat cognoscenti.

The stock brakes can be made to work adequately well, even for the anticipated power increase. And remember, you'll be making the bike quite a bit lighter with this build, so there's that. From my personal experience, I'd say you shouldn't worry about the brakes for now.

[Neofight]

First concern is acquiring the donor bike.
     I got carried away rejuvenating my Guzzi, buying trick parts, shiny part and neato parts that I petered out of money to really address mechanical issues that have arisen from the bike not being used for twenty years.
      I am just trying to avoid that with this project. I want to go into this with a step by step mod schedule so that there is a clear progression of what to do next. So that hopefully the end product stays true to the initial concept.
     So I'm thinking the Ace crank is the place to start. Everything is added on once that's done so...
     Is there a good tire selection for the 19" rims, or would it make sense to go with a different size if I were to go with an aftermarket rim while doing the disc brake conversion?
     Is there a tachometer that will fit in/replace the speedo in the nacelle?

[Mike_D]

I can say I'm definitely under 10k including the original cost of the bike.  I got my bike for 3k.  It was the best I could do after months and months of looking.  It came with the disc brake, Boyer and other extras that I would have wanted.  Plus it was nearby so I went for it.  I rode it for two years before my Clubman build.  There is a thread from a few weeks back where I talk about my experience with the Clubman build.  It did save me some money over the Fireball build.  Look back if you are interested.

Bottom end build is definitely where you should start.  If you can pull the motor yourself do that and ship it to Chumma.  Or if you feel you have the skills, split the cases and send him the crank.  Though if you use the Magnum cams I believe that some case work is in order (delicate work, maybe best left to Chumma).

You don't really need any special tools.  A good socket set and a good set of wrenches (SAE and metric, there could also be some Whitworth sizes).  A clutch hub puller would also be nice.  Sprocket puller may also be needed.  That's about it.  Someone may want to jump in here and correct me if I am wrong.

I believe there is a good tire selection.  Many past threads on this.  I am running k70s.  I like them.

Not sure about a tach replacing the speedo.  Though motorman2whel just fit a tach into where the ignition switch is housed.  It looks great.  Look back through the threads to find this if interested.  I personally just mounted a tach to the handle bars.

[ERC]

Here's a $9000.00 612. ERC

[Chuck D]

Here's a $9000.00 612. ERC

NICE!!

[solg]

 a lot of very helpful suggestion here. I would say donnor aside, round up 3k-4k and start on order of your priority. Take the essentials first (beefed up bottom end, Ace Fireballed head, crankcase breather mod, oil improvement mod,TM32 carb, free flow exhaust,) and then go from there. Of corse I believe you could stop after the essential an be completely satisfied.

[Chuck D]

I can say I'm definitely under 10k including the original cost of the bike.  I got my bike for 3k.  It was the best I could do after months and months of looking.  It came with the disc brake, Boyer and other extras that I would have wanted.  Plus it was nearby so I went for it.  I rode it for two years before my Clubman build.  There thread from a few weeks back where I talk about my experience with the Clubman build.  It did save me some money over the Fireball build.  Look back if you are interested.

Bottom end build is definitely where you should start.  If you can pull the motor yourself do that and ship it to Chumma.  Or if you feel you have the skills, split the cases and send him the crank.  Though if you use the Magnum cams I believe that some case work is in order (delicate work, maybe best left to Chumma).

You don't really need any special tools.  A good socket set and a good set of wrenches (SAE and metric, there could also be some Whitworth sizes).  A clutch hub puller would also be nice.  Sprocket puller may also be needed.  That's about it.  Someone may want to jump in here and correct me if I am wrong.

I believe there is a good tire selection.  Many past threads on this.  I am running k70s.  I like them.

Not sure about a tach replacing the speedo.  Though motorman2whel just fit a tach into where the ignition switch is housed.  It looks great.  Look back through the threads to find this if interested.  I personally just mounted a tach to the handle bars.

Well said.
About the tach/speedo issue. You may want to check your local safety inspection rules. NYS where I am requires a working speedometer in order to pass.

[Neofight]

ERC, that's I nice bike. Where'd you get the hard tail from?
Solg- what's the "oil improvement mod"?
So fireballs come in 535. There hitchcocks 612. What's a 612 fireball like? And what performance does it yield?

[Neofight]

Motorman2wheels tacho mod is really nice and the way I'd like to go

[ace.cafe]

ERC, that's I nice bike. Where'd you get the hard tail from?
Solg- what's the "oil improvement mod"?
So fireballs come in 535. There hitchcocks 612. What's a 612 fireball like? And what performance does it yield?

We have done both 535 and 612 Fireballs.
They have different characters. In our opinion, the 535 already has more stroke than we'd prefer, so adding even more stroke doesn't really help our purposes. The 535 and 612 both have the same bore, but the 612 has longer stroke.
It depends on what you want out of the bike. We have owners who are happy with 535 Fireballs, and also with 612 Fireballs.
The performance difference is that the 612 has a bit more low rpm torque, but does not rev as high.

The oil improvement mod is an Ace proprietary modification to the Bullet oiling system.

[Neofight]

Ok thanks, I thought the bore was bigger.

[solg]

ERC, that's I nice bike. Where'd you get the hard tail from?
Solg- what's the "oil improvement mod"?
So fireballs come in 535. There hitchcocks 612. What's a 612 fireball like? And what performance does it yield?

Yes to what Tom said. It made sense to me that along with a performance engine should come a performance upgrade to The oil circulation system. This to my knowledge is an Ace exclusive.

[Hoosier Bullet]

There is a lot of good advice in this thread but it is easy to lose sight of the forest because of the trees. 

If it was me I would get the donor as cheap as possible and just get it running if it isn't already.  That is gonna allow a very important thing to happen, you getting to know that particular bike (yes every bullet is probably a little different).  It will cost very little to make the bike run and operate the best it can, within the stock limitations.  Provided time patience and exploration of web info and identifying parts suppliers you like.

You can do a lot of things within those parameters that you will later want/need to do anyway (for example exhaust upgrade, TM carb install and tune, electronic ignition, spin on oil filter, brakes, tires, suspension, right side shift, tacho, delete electric start, correct the engine breather and so on).  This will also help distribute costs over time. 

I have done a fireball this way (incidentally bought new bullet for $4200, plus ~$4000 in parts, don't want to think about receipts though).  Right now working on another fireball, bought junk but complete non running bike for $300, similar amount in parts as the first bike.  Took it all apart as soon as I got it home.  BTW it is still not running a year and a half later.  Part of that is being too busy and/or laziness but the first way sure looks easier and possibly more enjoyable in hindsight. 

If you want to run the bike around while Tom is working the head and Chumma is building a crank, just track down a spare head and crank assembly.  Will keep your engine build down time as small as possible. 

[Neofight]

Thank you, Hoosier Bullet. That is a tasty hunk of perspective right there!

[ERC]

ERC, that's I nice bike. Where'd you get the hard tail from?
Solg- what's the "oil improvement mod"?
So fireballs come in 535. There hitchcocks 612. What's a 612 fireball like? And what performance does it yield?

That's a Hitchcocks bolt on that I welded on. ERC

[motorman2whel]

That's a Hitchcocks bolt on that I welded on. ERC

Very nice job too.

[AgentX]

There is a lot of good advice in this thread but it is easy to lose sight of the forest because of the trees. 

If it was me I would get the donor as cheap as possible and just get it running if it isn't already.  That is gonna allow a very important thing to happen, you getting to know that particular bike (yes every bullet is probably a little different).  It will cost very little to make the bike run and operate the best it can, within the stock limitations. 

Not a bad idea...IF you don't have to do any significant work on the major engine components like the main bearings, bore, etc.  Doing some tuning/timing/rejetting/cable replacement etc. is fine.  If major engine work is in the cards, just do the Fireball work at the same time.  In fact, if you can get a non-running bike super-cheap, that's really the cost-effective way to go.

For additional stuff for a Fireball, I personally think suspension improvements to the brakes via re-lining with modern materials and proper arcing, etc., or installation of disc(s) are key. 

Suspension upgrades via Hagons (or better) at the rear and cartridge valve emulators up front make the ride immeasurably better.  I used slightly longer shocks to tighten up the frame angles a bit, and I love how it feels.  Chumma also said my bike was the best-handling Bullet he'd ridden.  (I will, however, withhold his comments about my original engine and its state of tune when he visited, to save myself some embarassment.)  My repositioned pegs may also contribute to the road feel.

I put an upgraded alternator in mine, but I was throwing money at every possible future deficiency or problem I could.  Used the Newby clutch and belt primary to ensure performance without the maintenance of tensioning a primary chain and dealing with the fluid.

One little touch I like on mine is braided hose for the oil lines--that required the cases and head to be tapped for 10mm banjo bolts, but they won't work-harden and crack like the rigid pipes can.

[Disclaimer:  whatever you do, don't listen to me--my rebuild's not even complete yet!]

[Neofight]

Thanks a lot everyone for the detailed advice and conveyance of experience. Unfortunately my donor bike was sold before I could get there. Car gassed up, oil and tire pressures checked. Wad of cash in hand I called the place to see if it was still there. NOPE. All gone. Hopefully I don't blow the money before I can get it back in the bank...
     Maybe someday

[High On Octane]

What area do you reside in?  Some of us members have nothing better to do than obsess over Enfields and scour the internet for Enfield related material.          Craigslist is always a good place to keep an eye on, but David Blasco's website http://www.royalenfields.com/ is an excellent resource when looking for a used RE.

[Neofight]

I'm in eastern Virginia. I've checked out his site, and look regularly. I've also been using Search Tempest profusely. Doesn't seem to be anything realistic in my area, or at a price that seems reasonable.

[ace.cafe]

I know where there is a KS-only 2000 4-speed with the bottom end already done.
 In NJ.

[Neofight]

ACE I sent you a PM about it. Let me know.
I am still looking...

[Chuck D]

ACE I sent you a PM about it. Let me know.
I am still looking...

I know that bike. It's sweet.

[Neofight]

Man, you guys really know how to pick up a guys Sunday...

[Chuck D]

Man, you guys really know how to pick up a guys Sunday...

Anything for the cause.

[cafeman]

I think stars are lining up here, and in addition it's the right time to buy being the end of riding season, Christmas is here.....nothing like a nice present for yourself! 

[Neofight]

Wish I could say I deserved it