Author Topic: Potentially Stripped Drain Plug Thread  (Read 5963 times)

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kjvelo

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on: December 01, 2014, 07:41:07 pm
Hi guys,

I think I've got a stripped drain plug thread.  I bought my 2010 C5 used in May, and had my local shop replace the sprag clutch (which was dead).  Seems to me that they seriously over tightened the drain plug, so when I tried to take it out yesterday for an oil change, it took a whole lot of effort to get it to move, and then it was just spinning without going anywhere.

I haven't got the drain plug out yet, and I'm not sure whether I should drill it out and repair the threads, or just seal the drain plug and use the drain plate to get the oil out from now on (though I gather that I may not get all of the oil out that way).  The drain plug is almost all of the way in, and it seems like no oil is leaking out of it for now.  Would appreciate your guys' thoughts before I make any decisions.

Also, if thread repair is the best way to go, seems to me from reading a post on this forum about it (http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,8455.30.html) that I can buy this 14mm spark plug repair kit, use the tap without any drilling, and then put in one of the inserts to solve the problem:

http://www.powerbuilt.com.tw/en/product.php?no=459&parent=002005

Any thoughts on whether that would be the right way to go?  Also, would I need an additional tool to install the insert?

Thanks in advance for the help.
« Last Edit: December 01, 2014, 07:53:32 pm by kjvelo »


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #1 on: December 01, 2014, 08:01:21 pm
Don't just seal it up, sort it out.  I'm not sure what it will take to get it out, but once it's out you have some choices.

There are some expanding rubber plugs that will fit just about anything.  Get a few, they get old and hard as they age, but if there are any threads left at all you should be able to use one easily.
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/EnginePhotos/SumpPluggim.jpg

They also make oversized plugs.  Over time, a little over-tightening here and there can add up to enlarged threads that are still pretty good but just too big for a standard drain plug.  The oversized ones are a touch larger and will fit if your threads are still pretty good.  You do need the right diameter and thread pitch, and I think the RE is an odd size, so it may or may not be an option.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Oil+Drain+Plugs+%26+Gaskets+-+Universal/N2347/C0023.oap

There are self tapping oil drain plugs.  Get the right size.
https://www.belmetric.com/dp14x15r-metric-drain-plug-p-5037.html?zenid=pg053qolmanvah4i7182kgo8a3&gclid=Cj0KEQiAwPCjBRDZp9LWno3p7rEBEiQAGj3KJnpJUCqOhc2BMkIvp_iu7pIczZjD02-jkSDhv0-n8YwaAtDU8P8HAQ

There are also some that are a self tapping large center plug that goes in once and stays.  The center of it is smaller and tapped for a smaller bolt that is now your new drain plug.  These are a good solution but usually sit a bit high inside the drain pan, so you don't get everything out of the bottom any more.  Still, better than leaking oil everywhere.
http://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Self-Tapping-Oversized-Oil-Pan-Repair-Plug/93210.lp

Finally there are the thread repair kits.  Heli-Coil and TimeSert are the two big names.  Heli-Coil is sort of a spring of threads.  You tap a hole, screw in the spring, and then the bolt fits into the inner threads of the spring.  TimeSert is similar but is a solid one piece insert.  The Heli-Coil is cheaper, the TimeSert is a slightly better solution.  I think the Heli-Coil oil pan kits are pricey, the spark plug kit is less expensive.  As long as you have a washer and drain bolt that will fit, no reason not to use the less expensive one. 

Both of these come as parts or a full kit.  The full kit will have the tap, one or a few threaded inserts, and a tool to put the insert in.  That's what you want.  If you need more threaded inserts later, you can get just the parts and not the full kit. 

There are also 'liquid thread repair" kits from companies like Permatex.  I'd skip that option.  Not the strongest or leak free option, not great for something you'll be removing and replacing repeatedly like a drain plug, and just try to get all the oil off the threads to get it clean enough to stick.  This would be the worst option IMO.

Scott


kjvelo

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Reply #2 on: December 01, 2014, 08:19:23 pm
Thanks so much, Scott -- really helpful post.

I also came across this oversize self-tapping drain plug:

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/self-tapping-drain-plug.html

I figure it would be worth giving something like this a try before going through the trouble of installing an insert.  Any thoughts on whether this one would be a good option?

Thanks again.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #3 on: December 01, 2014, 09:35:46 pm
Dude!  From our sponsor, or course!  Yeah, that'd be a great first try.  The one thing I'd recommend with almost any of these solutions: grease the tap or bolt before you run it in, go in and come out slowly, and remove as much metal as you can.  Without splitting the cases you can never get a perfect collection of all the fliings, but a greasy tap, greasy bent q-tip, or greasy finger can collect most of them and bring them out. 

Once you're done, it'd be worth adding 2 quarts of cheap oil and running the motor at low speeds for just a few minutes, then dumping it and changing the oil and filter.  That should get any stragglers out.

Scott


SteveThackery

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Reply #4 on: December 01, 2014, 10:16:24 pm
Don't just seal it up, sort it out.  I'm not sure what it will take to get it out, but once it's out you have some choices.

Brilliant post - thanks, Scott.
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singhg5

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Reply #5 on: December 01, 2014, 10:29:28 pm
Very good idea by Ducati Scotty to apply grease on the oversized bolt threads to collect swarf.

Other suggestion is to insert greased tap (bolt) into the hole only a little bit at a time, pull it out, clean and reapply grease. Next time screw it in further than first time. Pull it out again, clean to remove metal particles. Reapply grease and insert again. Repeat. 

Some mechanics suggest that a small piece of rag soaked in grease be loosely inserted into the hole before inserting tap (or bigger bolt) and then pull it out after new threads are made. This has to be done carefully to not leave anything inside. Just mentioned it here but it may not be really needed in this case.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #6 on: December 01, 2014, 11:12:59 pm
All good ideas Singh.


AussieDave

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Reply #7 on: December 02, 2014, 12:24:16 am
I had the same problem when I first bought my g5 secondhand, I ended up using the heli coil. Fix but I did it while I had the engine torn down . Getting the tap in square and not leaving any residue with the bike assembled seemed almost impossible . Before I fixes I found that with the original aluminium crush gasket removed there was just enough thread left to hold the plugin and with the help of a little silicon seal .
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AwL

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Reply #8 on: December 02, 2014, 02:31:57 am
When my oil plug stripped threads i have been using the "oil tite" rubber plug mentioned in previous entry.  Problem with self-tapping plug installation with engine in bike is that it may well go in at an angle and then it won't seal.  I plan on using the rubber oil tite plug until such time as the engine is out of frame (hopefully never!) and then i'd use a helicoil.  The rubber plug works fine, but i check it frequently.   Believe is use the 1/2" size.   al


wildbill

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Reply #9 on: December 02, 2014, 06:33:17 am
ducati scotty
gotta say - you are indeed a wealth of information and an asset to this site. just to reply with so much info is a credit by itself and to you. I think we are lucky to have such a dedicated member and it should be fully appreciated by all.
if I would have had that particular problem - stuffed if I'd know how to fix/ or f--- it!....lol


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #10 on: December 02, 2014, 06:44:48 am
AwL makes a good point on any of the products that use a tap.  You really need to get that tap straight.  It's usually pretty easy to get an oversized bolt started straight since it tends to follow the old threads pretty well.  A real tap has more bite and is trickier to get started properly, especially on the bottom of an engine ;)  Many of these products come with a thick, rubber like washer on the bottom instead of a metal crush washer.  If you're just a little off, the rubbery washer can take up the difference.

Bill,
I'm a wealth of information, am I?  I'll just reply with my favorite adage, "Ask me how I know."  :-[ ::) ;)


mattsz

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Reply #11 on: December 02, 2014, 11:02:06 am
ducati scotty
gotta say - you are indeed a wealth of information and an asset to this site. just to reply with so much info is a credit by itself and to you. I think we are lucky to have such a dedicated member and it should be fully appreciated by all.

+1!  And don't forget, guys, he doesn't own his RE any more!  So we're especially lucky - he could have effed-off awhile ago...