[young gun]

Hey guys,

I have a question, my Iron Barrel keeps on spluttering or coughing when I get near to idle? So as I am slowing down for a traffic circle or nearing to stop, the bike will cough and die or i'll be able to bring it back with some gentle revs. What is this pointing to?

And another issue I have is my choke is set too rich I think, I can only use it to start the bike (which pretty much start 1st kick everytime) but then I have to be pretty quick in turning the choke off otherwise the bike just dies. Kills me when its colder because then I just have to sit there and gently rev the bike to warm up. Any ideas?

I have a mechanic that looks at the bike so none of these settings are my own, i've learnt with this bike than rather fiddle let the guy thats been servicing for 30 years sort it out but I think i'll need to fiddle this time!

[ace.cafe]

Sometimes things like this happen with changing temperatures, because mixture is temperature dependent.
Typically you can tune that type of closed throttle issue with the little air bleed screw. If you feel it is too rich, then unscrew the air bleed screw about 1/8 of a turn, and see how that does.
Alternatively, you may just raise your idle speed slightly with the turning in the big idle screw a little bit.

[young gun]

Thanks Ace,

There's truth in what you are saying, Johannesburg in South Africa is notoriously dry and the wet season has just started so our humidity has gone from 45% to like 95%

I'll turn up the idling screw, hopefully that will help stop the stalling. Theres no starter on my bike so if I stall, I have to kickstart it in the middle of what is normally a busy intersection

Once again thanks for your help!

[Chuck D]

I've got something similar going on with my bike, but by choice. I'll explain.
Since I'm very often in stop and go city traffic, the engine is forced to sit at idle quite a lot. For this reason I have the idle circuit  set 1/8 to 1/4 (no more) rich for it's cooling effect. Not enough to make the engine die, but enough to slow the revs at idle to just before that point. I make this adjustment seasonally as the average ambient temps rise or fall and with the engine at full running temperature. I use the small slotted air bleed screw for this. In for richer, out for leaner. I then use the large knob (which raises and lowers the slide) to bring the idle back up around 12-1300rpms. A very slight tweak accomplishes this.
Now since I'm already on the rich side, I don't need to use the choke at all in warm weather. In cooler temps (below 50F), on a cold engine, I'll 1, engage the choke and give one full kick through with the ignition OFF and then 2, close the choke, switch on the key and then go for the starting kick. It works every time.

[young gun]

We turning the idling screw up saved me from any stalls so that's a good thing! 

Thanks a for the advice. If the problem persists I'll take a look at that air bleed screw