Author Topic: 300 miles 1st week of ownership, help  (Read 6615 times)

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Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #15 on: August 02, 2008, 04:14:49 am
Listen to Matt and Foggy. They have attained Guru status 'round here. ;)

Thanks Chuck!  I'm not worthy!  Just the school of hard knocks!
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Thumper

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Reply #16 on: August 02, 2008, 04:00:46 pm
Listen to Matt and Foggy. They have attained Guru status 'round here. ;)

Thanks Chuck!  I'm not worthy!  Just the school of hard knocks!

I'm no guru, but thanks! Like most of us I have years of experience trying to keep old and oddball bikes running reliably! So far, the RE has been a breeze!

Matt


The Garbone

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Reply #17 on: August 04, 2008, 05:05:28 am
I just picked up my IronHead deluxe a week ago and had over 350 miles on it in under 3 days. (I was on vacation)  I put Mobile 1 syn in it and the difference in vibration was quite noticable.
The bike runs a lot smoother now.   

 I am now over 650 miles and running 50-60 mph and it seems fine and appears not to be burning oil and such.  One thing I did do was warm the engine for 2 minutes before draining the oil.  This gave me a good opportunity to burn my hand on the exhaust when pulling the filter.

Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


frankdog

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Reply #18 on: August 04, 2008, 06:32:12 pm
Hi.

Break-in: big opinion swings here, but I would suggest doing some research. I have found that breaking in an engine by being gentle with it is a great way to glaze your cylinders and never get good compression. IMHO, an engine should be run in according to how it's going to be used. I can provide some good URL's that show blow-by and piston condition, side by side, of engine's broken in "the gentle way" and engine's broken in according to normal use. I have found that by breaking in my engines normally, I get fewer problems down the road with blow-by and compression.

Oil: synthetic or dino, the important thing is not to use a detergent oil. Oils with detergent additives do exactly that: clean off the carbon deposits that you actually want to have helping seat the rings. This is absolutely critical to getting your engine to run well over the long term.

The first fluid changes are the important ones. Get to them as close to the recommended mileage as you can. After that, a few extra miles won't hurt.

happy riding!

c


Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #19 on: August 04, 2008, 07:17:30 pm
Hi.

Break-in: big opinion swings here, but I would suggest doing some research. I have found that breaking in an engine by being gentle with it is a great way to glaze your cylinders and never get good compression. IMHO, an engine should be run in according to how it's going to be used. I can provide some good URL's that show blow-by and piston condition, side by side, of engine's broken in "the gentle way" and engine's broken in according to normal use. I have found that by breaking in my engines normally, I get fewer problems down the road with blow-by and compression.

Oil: synthetic or dino, the important thing is not to use a detergent oil. Oils with detergent additives do exactly that: clean off the carbon deposits that you actually want to have helping seat the rings. This is absolutely critical to getting your engine to run well over the long term.

The first fluid changes are the important ones. Get to them as close to the recommended mileage as you can. After that, a few extra miles won't hurt.

happy riding!

c

Rings seat in fast on any engine.  It's really not so much a ring issue.  The Bullet piston to cylinder manufacturing tolerances require not creating more cylinder heat than can be scavenged away.  In the first 300 miles, 40 mph should not be exceeded as more heat is generated than can be removed.

Factory and dealer experience with repairs, over the years, have verified this.

Varying the throttle and not holding a steady rpm for any length of time is very important in the break-in.

BTW - All modern oils have "detergent" in them.  The only exception being air compressor oils and some lawn mower oils.

Ride safe!  ;)

« Last Edit: August 04, 2008, 07:23:27 pm by Foggy_Auggie »
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frankdog

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Reply #20 on: August 09, 2008, 06:28:09 pm
actually, it's best to say that most modern oils available easily are detergent oils. it is true that almost all of the oils available today have detergent additives (which are only really functional until particulate suspension is at maximum levels), but there are non-detergent oils that pretty much every gearhead i know use during the break-in period, including one of my buddies at API, who swears by Noco as the "motor break-in love juice".

the whole question really again comes down to how granular does one want to get to "proper" break-in, which is as personal (and mystical, to some) a process as predicting the wife's reaction to identical questions asked on different days ;-).

cheers!



sewerman

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Reply #21 on: August 10, 2008, 02:02:52 pm
I tried ATF once on the clutch side but it weeped out of the vent hole.  Went back to 10w-30 and the problem went away.  Just my $0.02.


fredgold52

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Reply #22 on: August 11, 2008, 12:05:23 am
PS - I wish something would leak

I've got nearly 2,000 miles on mine now and it just started to do a little seeping at the head/cylinder joint.  This is the very first leak of any sort if you don't count the spewing mess from a clogged oil return in the air filter box.  Man, what a mess.

Considering all the posts about higher that normal maintenance requirements, this is a pretty trouble free bike.  No, it's not a Honda/Yamaha/Suzuki or a plastic bodied twist and go scooter maintenance wise, but it is a classic bit of technology and true motorcycle soul.

PS.  there's some great advice in this thread!
2006 '65' and a 200cc Stella, Indian all the way


dewjantim

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Reply #23 on: August 11, 2008, 08:47:53 pm
If you will read the Mototune website insight into the break-in process will be gained. This guy is no fluke or back yard mechanic, he is a trained engineer who builds race engines for a living. My bike was broken in using this method which is not how the factory suggests and it has run great so far.  This is how I break in all my new bikes and they always run great, don't use oil, and get better gas mileage than the literature says.  At one time a slow break in was beneficial. Metals used in bearings and tolerances were different then, requiring easier running until the metals bedded together and the surfaces smoothed out. With todays new metalurgy the bearings and all surfaces which rub on each other are smoother and fit better from the start. Therefore they are already pretty much broken in from the factory. Also, the oils used today are far superior to the old oils used in the last century, providing better lubrication and cooling. Therefore a long break in is not required.......Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #24 on: August 11, 2008, 08:58:41 pm
I have to weigh in on this one. First off, my opinion on this should probably not count any heavier than anyone else's here, but I do have an opinion. My post is based on our experience with absolutely no science involved, to take it for what it is worth.
We believe very strongly in following the factory break-in, particularly on the Cast Iron engine. One reason - heat. When run hard and new the cast iron engine is capable of producting more heat than it can dissapate. Sometimes you get away with it and sometimes you don't. When we get a seized piston report it is almost always the result of overheating or improper installation of an aftermarket piston.

I am old enough to remember when cars came with "break-in" oil which was non-detergent. It was generally changed out around 1,000 miles. As we all know modern cars do not come this way. I agree that modern engines are quite a bit different. but the they are also much better temperature controlled than a big-assed single. I have no real opinion on this except to say that be careful so that you don't void your warranty by running an un-approved oil.

A weeping cylinder head can often times be fixed by re-torquing the head. On the cast iron Bullet this is supposed to be done at the 500 mile service. We also like to see it around 1,500. The lean-burn uses a more modern gasket and may require less of this.
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
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erob123

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Reply #25 on: August 11, 2008, 11:03:19 pm
Ahhhh!  Un-approved? How long is the list? Summarize please, I'm fixin to change and been using forum as help.  Is it weight, type, or am I missing something?


PhilJ

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Reply #26 on: August 11, 2008, 11:08:19 pm
If you use what is suggested in your maintenance book, your warranty should be intact through break-in.


baird4444

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Reply #27 on: August 11, 2008, 11:34:36 pm
the Mototune break-in makes a lot of sense when it comes to todays modern engines. If I were buying a new modern bike I would use it, BUT....

but the Enfield motor is not modern. Yes, the metallurgy and bearings ARE better
but the oil pump is NOT. There is not large volumes of oil being pumped to flush
away the extra metal.  Just a trickel and spurt with little or no measurable
 oil pressure, just flow.
           just my way of thinking...    Mike
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Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #28 on: August 12, 2008, 02:10:33 am
If you use what your owners manual requires there should be no problem, Where 15w40 is called form 20w50 is also fine.
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


erob123

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Reply #29 on: August 12, 2008, 03:09:32 am
Like I started thread with Amsoil 20W-50, whoops 20 instead of 10? Its hot in Texas!  Anyway in the middle, HELP!!!, small o-ring in filter cover over boss or inside c'bore? Getting late.  Over boss where spring sits don't seem right. Lots of strech why on spring? But inside c'bore small wants to double up but looks righgt place to seal stud opening.   I hope somebody is up late maybe in India?  Thanks, Eric