Author Topic: Fork Stem nut replacement  (Read 9468 times)

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High On Octane

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Reply #15 on: December 08, 2014, 08:16:44 pm
cafeman - Did you use the Hitchcock's kit or did you figure out the bearings for yourself?  You installed tapered cup bearings, correct?
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cafeman

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Reply #16 on: December 08, 2014, 08:55:27 pm
Nah, I went the cheap route and put OEM from Enfield country off eBay. The price was too low ($22.50 shipped) to not give them a try. And close to $300 for the Hitchcock's piece) was never an option. Properly adjusted and with the grease I used I'm not worried.   ;)


crock

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Reply #17 on: December 10, 2014, 12:35:54 am
Adjusting the head/steering bearings on all motorcycles and bicycles is an art. Too much preload and you force all the lubricant away. Too little preload and the loads can be concentrated on a single bearing, which then forces the lubricant away. You want no play in the bearings at all, and as little torque on the adjustment nut as you can get away with to assure there is no play. You first torque the nut down to get any slop out of the bearing and move the grease out of the way, then you slacken it off. If you feel any play, re-torque the nut and slacken off again. You do this a few times and you get a pretty good visual reference and feel for where the slack just gets taken out. You always want to first tighten the nut, and then release it. If you have to tighten to remove the play, you need to start over again. Always loosen the nut to the point just before the play starts, don't reverse the direction. You really want no bearing play at all and as little torque as you can get away with.
Rocket


Rich Mintz

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Reply #18 on: July 07, 2015, 10:32:45 am
In my accident yesterday (bike fell on left side while in motion), my left handlebar hit the ground and the whole handlebar assembly torqued slightly to the side. I need to loosen the fork stem bolt (I think) in order to twist it back into place, so that I can attempt to roll the bike.

The fork stem bolt looks to be a large, non-standard size. Anyone know what size it is? I'll need to buy a wrench.

I saw the note about the Allen bolt inside the casquette but this I assume is a normal size. (Assuming mine wasn't sheared off by the twisting, which would be a whole different problem)
« Last Edit: July 07, 2015, 10:35:01 am by Rich Mintz »
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singhg5

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Reply #19 on: July 07, 2015, 05:50:12 pm
In my accident yesterday (bike fell on left side while in motion), my left handlebar hit the ground and the whole handlebar assembly torqued slightly to the side. I need to loosen the fork stem bolt (I think) in order to twist it back into place, so that I can attempt to roll the bike.

The fork stem bolt looks to be a large, non-standard size. Anyone know what size it is? I'll need to buy a wrench.

I saw the note about the Allen bolt inside the casquette but this I assume is a normal size. (Assuming mine wasn't sheared off by the twisting, which would be a whole different problem)

Rich - Hope you are not hurt and it is a  :( that the bike went down.

Large nut is 30 mm and allen bolt I believe 8 mm.
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


Arizoni

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Reply #20 on: July 07, 2015, 07:50:45 pm
You might have to mess with the big fork stem nut but usually that isn't necessary.

When a bike is layed down, often the handlebar will hit the ground and try to turn the wheel to the side.  Then, the wheel hits the ground and refuses to turn which results in the fork tubes moving a small bit.

This results in the handlebars not being centered when the wheel/tire is pointed ahead.  It does not usually result in the wheel not being able to be turned.

I know this is going to sound rather crude but the way many fix this misalignment condition is to straddle the front wheel with it between your knees.
Then, grab the handlebars and turn them hard in a direction that will result in them being straight when the wheel is pointed straight ahead.

If the alignment of the bars/wheel is very far out of position, some have been known to pull the motorcycle up to some fixed thing like a tree or building.  Then, with the wheel located so it will hit the fixed thing if the handlebars try to turn it in that direction, turn the wheel away from the object with the handlebars.  Then, rotate the handlebars rapidly as possible to cause the wheel to whack the fixed object.
This usually fixes it if luck is with you.  The catch is, getting just the right amount of "whack" to correct the problem without knocking the wheel so far that it is now pointed in the other direction.

Usually the cause of a wheel not turning is something like the fender (mud guard) got knocked to the side and it is now rubbing on the tire.

If this is the problem, loosen the bolts that hold the fender and re position it so it isn't rubbing on the tire.
Jim
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Rich Mintz

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Reply #21 on: July 07, 2015, 08:57:09 pm
This is very helpful. The wheel turns fine (left to right), but the handlebars are no longer pointing forward when the wheel is pointing forward. So this might actually work.

Separately, the wheels are not rotating well. It can't be that the bike is stuck in gear, because the engine starts right up. Something is wedged somewhere (I guessed it was the front brakes but it may not be). I'll see what I can do when I get back to where the bike is parked.
Rich Mintz - New York City
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