[thumper011]

Hi to all, I just signed up and this is my first post. I have a 2011 R.E. Bullet 500 G5 Classic. I need to replace the stem nut, the large chrome plated nut just under the speedometer, because the chrome has flaked off of my original. What is involved in doing this, and is there anything I need to watch out for? I'm guessing it's a simple unbolt, and then ratchet the new one in its place, but not being a mechanic, I really don't know what that nut is holding in place. Thanks to all.

[High On Octane]

Nothing special.  Just unbolt it and install the new one.  Maybe put a couple of drops of blue LocTite on the threads.

[singhg5]

Hi to all, I just signed up and this is my first post. I have a 2011 R.E. Bullet 500 G5 Classic. I need to replace the stem nut, the large chrome plated nut just under the speedometer, because the chrome has flaked off of my original.   What is involved in doing this, and is there anything I need to watch out for? I'm guessing it's a simple unbolt, and then ratchet the new one in its place, but not being a mechanic, I really don't know what that nut is holding in place. Thanks to all.

The large chrome nut is attached to steering stem.

Though I have not done it myself but I had read in another thread that to remove steering stem, an allen-head screw that runs horizontally in a recess on the rear of headlight casquette, just below the middle of handlebar, needs to be loosened. This screw goes horizontally through the headlamp casing and perhaps keeps the steering lock nut from turning and loosening while riding.

May be someone who has changed steering stem bearings can confirm this.

[pmanaz1973]

Does anyone have the torque specs for the large steering head nut.  The washer under mine is seriously rusty and I'm feeling a need to buff it off and wax it...nothing else to do on the bike while it rains.

singhg5 - Good catch on the allen-head bolt - My 2014 C5 has the same set-up.  I could see myself breaking out a breaker bar and really messing things up.

[singhg5]

The steering stem large top nut torque is a bit confusing depending on the source of information.

Those who have worked with it suggest to tighten it snug and then back off slightly. Tight enough to remove any play. Too loose, it will cause headshake and damage bearings. Too tight, it heats up ball bearings and difficult steering. The steering should turn freely with a gentle finger pressure, without flopping from one side to the other.

The other source of information is the Service Manual which states that after greasing the bearings, "Tighten upto 1.89 Kg.M (18-20Nm), loosen fully and re-tighten to 0.15-0.35 Kg.M (2-4Nm)."

This corresponds to tightening to 13-15 Lb-ft, then loosen and re-tighten to 1.0-2.5 Lb.ft. This does not seem tight at all !! 

Is something amiss or error in manual ? Like MOST things of RE there is wiggle room for choosing / interpreting / until you get it right or think it is right  . 

Could it be one of those things - what is correct tire pressure for RE or how much oil needed for oil change - which are always in discussion every few weeks or months for all these years  . Perhaps memorise how the steering feels BEFORE taking off the large nut and then tighten it to same degree.

PS - Just for the heck of it to get a rough idea, I looked up in my Honda Nighthawk Service Manual. It has slightly different design from RE. The steering stem has an Bearing Adjusting Nut (spanner nut), that is tightened until snug and then backed off 1/8 turn. Then there is upper fork bridge with a Steering Stem Nut which is torqued to 43-51 Pb.ft in that bike. 

Most bikes have a separate Bearing Adjusting Nut / Spanner Nut on the stem, but don't see it in RE diagram. I guess that Steering Stem Nut of RE acts both as an adjusting nut and top nut. 

[pmanaz1973]

Interesting.  Yes, I suspect I'll make a careful note on the way the steering feels, any play etc. then move forward.  The rain is pouring, so time for some exploring.

I'm a poet and didn't even know it. 

[Arizoni]

The tightening instructions that say to first tighten the nut to 13-15 lb/ft is for cases where the bearing races are being replaced.  It seats the lower ball race.

After this is done, the nut is loosened and then retighted to the 1.0-2.5 ft/lbs torque.  This is the operating torque designed to keep the balls under a slight load so they can take the road shocks and don't skid when the handlebars are turned.

If the lower ball race hasn't been removed, the higher torque can be ignored when tightening the nut.  Just don't move the handlebars when that nut is removed.
If the bearing races separate very far, the 19 balls will instantly do their impression of Houdini and vanish right before your eyes.

[singhg5]

In my Service Manual if the bearings/races are replaced then initially tighten the nut to 7-9 Kg.M correponding
to 50-58 Lb.ft of torque to settle the race. Then loosen and set to operating torque.

If only the grease is replaced then initial tightening is 13 to 15 Lb.ft. Then loosen and set to operating torque.

Operating torque is same in both cases.

Another point is that to adjust the steering stem / replace bearing / grease bearing, take off the front wheel and loosen or completely take off the pinch bolts that clamp upper fork tubes (#1 in picture) to allow free movement of steering stem. This may not be necessary if only the nut is replaced without adjustment.   

[pmanaz1973]

Just don't move the handlebars when that nut is removed.
If the bearing races separate very far, the 19 balls will instantly do their impression of Houdini and vanish right before your eyes.

I wonder if it would be wise to do this while sitting on the bike off of any sort of support or stand- essentially creating a static load on the front forks to ensure the races stay together???  Thoughts gentleman?

[Arizoni]

If I were doing this, I would have the motorcycle resting on the center stand with the steering pointed straight ahead.

Without applying any more load to the front fork I would remove and replace the stem nut.

The light loading on the front fork while the motorcycle is resting on the center stand will keep the lower bearing fully engaged and shouldn't produce any significant side loads that would try to move the upper bearing.

I would not   loosen the stem nut if the front wheel was hanging loose with the wheel unsupported.  If this was done, there is a good chance the wheel, forks and stem would drop a bit which could allow the balls in the lower bearing to escape.

[ERC]

If this is the same as the older ones. You tighten the nut so that the steering with the wheel off the ground and heading straight. If you just tap the handlebars and it should swing to one side easily. Then tighten the fork crown clamps and try again. And should have only the slightest amount of play in the bearings.  ERC

[cafeman]

I just replaced my bearings and races today, first time on any bike. Gotta say it is no fun. To do it properly (so as to drift out and drift in the races properly with some sort of solid backing as you mercilessly bang and bash with a sledge  without butchering/banging things ) you really need to disassemble the "whole" front end, component by component. Unhook all the wiring harnesses, disconnect and remove all the cables, remove handlebars, the wheel, the forks, the covers, the casquette, etc, etc. Any attempts to shortcut and leave stuff connected is an exercise in frustration and tempting damaged paint, wiring, cables. And once you tear things apart to this extent you might as well replace the fork seals..good god what a mess!        

(yes I was able to replace the races and bearings and didn't f-up anything...somehow!)

[pmanaz1973]

cafeman- Did you happen to grab any pictures of the surgery?

[cafeman]

cafeman- Did you happen to grab any pictures of the surgery?

Unfortunately no, (all I have is my phone camera) It's basically a "disassemble" the whole front end piece by piece in order to do it correctly (and safely) I put it off for quite awhile as it is involved. Mind you it's not hard just lots of labor. Having a floor jack under the front engine mounts along with the centerstand worked fine. I used my brass hammer to drive the new races in (and used an old race to hit with the hammer to drive the two new races (that have the shields covering them otherwise its hard to hammer the race in without bashing the shields) on the underside of the casquette and the bottom of the headstock. And a long drift was needed to drive the old races out from the inside. I used Bel-Ray waterproof suspension and bearing grease.

[pmanaz1973]

I've had the forks off before, so I'm getting a sense of home much more there would still be to do in disconnecting/moving wiring away from headlight nacelle.    

[High On Octane]

cafeman - Did you use the Hitchcock's kit or did you figure out the bearings for yourself?  You installed tapered cup bearings, correct?

[cafeman]

Nah, I went the cheap route and put OEM from Enfield country off eBay. The price was too low ($22.50 shipped) to not give them a try. And close to $300 for the Hitchcock's piece) was never an option. Properly adjusted and with the grease I used I'm not worried.   

[crock]

Adjusting the head/steering bearings on all motorcycles and bicycles is an art. Too much preload and you force all the lubricant away. Too little preload and the loads can be concentrated on a single bearing, which then forces the lubricant away. You want no play in the bearings at all, and as little torque on the adjustment nut as you can get away with to assure there is no play. You first torque the nut down to get any slop out of the bearing and move the grease out of the way, then you slacken it off. If you feel any play, re-torque the nut and slacken off again. You do this a few times and you get a pretty good visual reference and feel for where the slack just gets taken out. You always want to first tighten the nut, and then release it. If you have to tighten to remove the play, you need to start over again. Always loosen the nut to the point just before the play starts, don't reverse the direction. You really want no bearing play at all and as little torque as you can get away with.

[Rich Mintz]

In my accident yesterday (bike fell on left side while in motion), my left handlebar hit the ground and the whole handlebar assembly torqued slightly to the side. I need to loosen the fork stem bolt (I think) in order to twist it back into place, so that I can attempt to roll the bike.

The fork stem bolt looks to be a large, non-standard size. Anyone know what size it is? I'll need to buy a wrench.

I saw the note about the Allen bolt inside the casquette but this I assume is a normal size. (Assuming mine wasn't sheared off by the twisting, which would be a whole different problem)

[singhg5]

In my accident yesterday (bike fell on left side while in motion), my left handlebar hit the ground and the whole handlebar assembly torqued slightly to the side. I need to loosen the fork stem bolt (I think) in order to twist it back into place, so that I can attempt to roll the bike.

The fork stem bolt looks to be a large, non-standard size. Anyone know what size it is? I'll need to buy a wrench.

I saw the note about the Allen bolt inside the casquette but this I assume is a normal size. (Assuming mine wasn't sheared off by the twisting, which would be a whole different problem)

Rich - Hope you are not hurt and it is a  that the bike went down.

Large nut is 30 mm and allen bolt I believe 8 mm.

[Arizoni]

You might have to mess with the big fork stem nut but usually that isn't necessary.

When a bike is layed down, often the handlebar will hit the ground and try to turn the wheel to the side.  Then, the wheel hits the ground and refuses to turn which results in the fork tubes moving a small bit.

This results in the handlebars not being centered when the wheel/tire is pointed ahead.  It does not usually result in the wheel not being able to be turned.

I know this is going to sound rather crude but the way many fix this misalignment condition is to straddle the front wheel with it between your knees.
Then, grab the handlebars and turn them hard in a direction that will result in them being straight when the wheel is pointed straight ahead.

If the alignment of the bars/wheel is very far out of position, some have been known to pull the motorcycle up to some fixed thing like a tree or building.  Then, with the wheel located so it will hit the fixed thing if the handlebars try to turn it in that direction, turn the wheel away from the object with the handlebars.  Then, rotate the handlebars rapidly as possible to cause the wheel to whack the fixed object.
This usually fixes it if luck is with you.  The catch is, getting just the right amount of "whack" to correct the problem without knocking the wheel so far that it is now pointed in the other direction.

Usually the cause of a wheel not turning is something like the fender (mud guard) got knocked to the side and it is now rubbing on the tire.

If this is the problem, loosen the bolts that hold the fender and re position it so it isn't rubbing on the tire.

[Rich Mintz]

This is very helpful. The wheel turns fine (left to right), but the handlebars are no longer pointing forward when the wheel is pointing forward. So this might actually work.

Separately, the wheels are not rotating well. It can't be that the bike is stuck in gear, because the engine starts right up. Something is wedged somewhere (I guessed it was the front brakes but it may not be). I'll see what I can do when I get back to where the bike is parked.