[AussieDave]

 Hello everybody,its been a while since i've posted,if anyone remembers, i had a big end bearing fail last year on my G5 delux and have been off the road since then. I'm happy to report that the engine is fixed(i hope -I haven't started it yet!)and has new bearings throughout,a new crank assembly,rings,exhaust valve,a hone and fresh gaskets and seals and looks like new!(almost).  Its been a great learning experience for me , and I want to thank everyone who gave me such helpful advice along the way. Its taken far too long of course but I now feel I know the motor inside and out and next time I pull it down it will be much faster.
 Before I install the engine I thought I'd go right over the frame and touch it up and clean it, and I have found some play in the swingarm. The nylon bushes seem to be fine but the metal sleeve inside them seems worn, and I'm not sure if this is part of the bush or the spacer referred to in the manual extending through the bushes. I'm also a little confused as to the correct technique for removing them. It seems pretty clear that dirt and grit has found its way in there and worn down the bearing surface.There is about a millimeter of play at either side. Any advice would be appreciated, how much play is acceptable , and does the rod also wear down? And can someone please advise the best way to get the suckers out?
  Best regards to all, Dave.

[Sectorsteve]

Hiya dave. Good news on your nearly finished g5. Was wondering how you got on. Inside the swing arm is the plastic bushes that go in about an inch. These butt up to a steel tube. I used the swing arm bolt to tap out the bushes then tapped out the steel tube. I replaced all with 2 steel bushes from hitchcocks which negates the steel tube. The steel bushes are about 3 inches long and need to be tapped into the swing arm.

[AussieDave]

Awesome ! Sounds pretty straightforward . Thanks Steve !

[mattsz]

Although it seems counter-intuitive at first glance, it wouldn't be the first time I've come across a mechanism where the softer part survived while the harder part wore.  Abrasive substances can become embedded in the soft stuff and chew away at the stronger stuff...

Dave - I hope you'll continue to post about your engine rebuild results, either in the long thread you started last year, or a new one.  I'd like to hear how it went, and probably ask some questions, too...

[AussieDave]

ThanksMatt! I don't know if there's much to say about it - I feel kinda dumb coz its taken  so long ! I guess the biggest issues I had were trouble from the girl for the smell I made in the kitchen when heating the engine cases to get the bearings in.... And becoming very wary of the torque values advised in the Manual after snapping one case rod and stretching one of the mounting bolts. I'm more than happy to answer any questions about it- but I'm still a babe in the woods compared to others here! - ill put something on the original thread when All is done just to provide a complete narrative for posterity - I guess that would be good form .

[Sectorsteve]

ome ! Sounds pretty straightforward . Thanks Steve !
[/quote]

mmmm straight forward maybe!
If you use the steel bushes like i did you will need to compensate for a missing 1cm in swing arm width. the steel bushes do not protrude out , but fit completely inside. Alternatively buy the same plastic bushes. With the steel bushes youll need some spacers between swing arm and frame

[Desi Bike]

Dave, what did you use instead of the "special tool"to hold the connecting rod while you undid the rest of the bits? I'm at that stage in tear down.

[AussieDave]

G'day Desi! I used a short piece of dowel with the ends wrapped in electrical tape for extra softness . Just wide enough to sit across the barrel through the little end of the con rod .

[Desi Bike]

Thanks Dave,  didn't want to damage the connecting rod bearing.

Sorry for the hijack everyone.. now back to our regularly scheduled program.

[AussieDave]

Ok, still a little unclear on  this....I knocked out the rod thru which the supporting bolt runs,leaving the nylon bushes in place. My question is ,although the bushes are in good repair and quite servicable there is a small amount of play between the swingarm bolt and the steel tube that it runs thru. Is this normal? This is the part that wears - I dont see a problem with the nylon bushes. The tube that carries the swingarm bolt fits nice and snug in the bushes. Solid, no play at all,but between the internal wall of the tube and the bolt about a .5mm gap exists... Is this normal? Does anyone know? Cheers,and best regards to all Dave (bamboozled)

[Sectorsteve]

hmmmm, i just cannot remember exactly. I think, there was a little play, and i dont think its normal because with the new steel bushes there is no play at all. its really a tight fit, maybe half a mil.

[AussieDave]

Cheers Steve ,I reckon ill go with the stock parts coz the importer is just down the road and easily accessible . He's a good bloke and usually knocks a bit off the price for me . The bolt and sleeve arrangement seems different to what is described in the book, hence my confusion .

[Arizoni]

AD:

The steel spacer between the nylon bushings is just that.  A spacer.
It isn't carrying any load so it can be relatively loose on the bolt while it does its job of keeping the nylon bushings in their correct place.

[AussieDave]

Arizoni, my jan 2011 build g5 has a single metal sleeve that extends through the nylon bushings , and it is load bearing . As I said, different to the design displayed in the workshop manual . I'm putting in a sleeve shim to eliminate the play and absorb the wear .

[Arizoni]

You are right.  I should have read the Maintaince Manual before opening my mouth. 

I'll take another stab at it.

The tube slides thru the nylon bushings and once installed it rotates inside of them.  The tube is part of the bearing system.

If I'm not mistaken, the tube will slide between the pads on the frame when you put the swing arm assembly in place.

The bolt that slides thru the steel sleeve and the washer/nut that goes on the other end are torqued to 70 N/M (51.7 Lb/Ft). 
That much torque should tighten the bolt/nut down with enough force to bend the frame locally inward resulting the steel tube being pinched on both ends by the frame.

The fact that the bolt clears the tube slightly shouldn't cause any major problem with the alignment of the swing arm.  In other words, the little bit of slop between the bolt and the tube aligns things "Close enough for Government work". 

By the way, don't forget to grease the outside of the steel tube.  Although it is sliding in nylon bushings, they will be grateful for any bit of grease you apply.

[AussieDave]

It's all good Arizoni! I appreciate the input and intrest. I've put the swingarm back in the bike with a shim inside the tube. play is eliminated, all greased up and ready to torque down when everything else is done.I've just finished putting the engine back in the frame,but i'm leaving the mounting and frame assembly bolts loose until idle ,so there are no weird stresses anywhere and the bike sits how it wants to. Damn this crappy wire harness! Its bloody awkward!