Author Topic: no oil to the top,  (Read 8639 times)

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guss,guss

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Reply #30 on: September 24, 2014, 09:57:59 pm
[quote author=ace.cafe link=topic=20392.msg225530#msg225530 .
If you are going to take the front oil pump cover off, the first thing you want to do with the cover off and the pump disc out, is to rotate the engine with the kicker, and see that the little drive spindle with the little pin on it is turning around.

i checked the drain plug clearance to the passage, thats not it. thanks.

i got the pump cover off, what is the the pump disc?

[/quote]
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Arizoni

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Reply #31 on: September 24, 2014, 10:29:18 pm
The pump disk is the circular disk with a flat on the bottom.  The piston goes into the area where the flat is located.

If you rotate the crankshaft of the engine it will cause the oil pump drive shaft to turn.
When it turns it moves the piston into and out of the disk he's talking about.

This disk and the piston that is in it should slide straight out of the cavity it is in.
Jim
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guss,guss

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Reply #32 on: September 24, 2014, 10:52:34 pm
OK, I'm learning.
 got the disc out with its little piston.the spindle does rotate very slowly while i crank the kicker by hand.
oil was oozing out the holes in the disc when i pushed the piston in and out. and a little from the tiny holes behind the disc.
is it OK to blow those out? 
Kill em all, let God sort em out. 
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ace.cafe

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Reply #33 on: September 25, 2014, 12:42:24 am
OK, I'm learning.
 got the disc out with its little piston.the spindle does rotate very slowly while i crank the kicker by hand.
oil was oozing out the holes in the disc when i pushed the piston in and out. and a little from the tiny holes behind the disc.
is it OK to blow those out?

You can take that pump right out and clean it all off with some solvent, and make sure all the holes are clear.
It sounds like your pump is acting in a functional manner, but it would be good to clean all that stuff out, and be sure that there are not any severely scored surfaces where the pump runs.
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cafeman

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Reply #34 on: September 25, 2014, 01:10:37 am
You could remove the two forward drain plugs in the crankcase and then spray some wd-40 or use an oil can to spray/ force oil in to port "Y" in the timing cover, you should see oil/wd flow out the return feed plug hole. Then remove banjo and oil line on crankcase, spray WD orforce oil from can in to port "X" in the timing cover. Oil should flow freely out the oil line/banjo hole. Compressed air thru ports "Y" and "X" in the pump ports of the timing cover wont hurt. If that all checks out you have no problems. If all was fine originally and then the bike sat for 6 weeks and you just happened to loosen the oil lines and became worried of no oil flowing, I honestly believe its nothing more than just a matter of time for oil to start flowing again. What made you check the lines in the first place? Was there some indication of a problem? Or did you do an oil change and check for good measure? Short of some silicone glob from a previous service coming loose and plunging a passage, if there was no problem and the drain plugs feed/ return plugs weren't messed with and the pumps are functioning you've pretty much eliminated it all.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 01:18:58 am by cafeman »


guss,guss

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Reply #35 on: September 25, 2014, 10:21:13 pm
 i don't have two forward drain plugs. i have two total.
 i still haven't taken of the timing cover off to do all that blowing thru the holes.
 i got a little intimidated with all the warnings of the shims and gasket thicknesses. my gasket is very very thin and looks like ultra black. i was going to do more reading on this and hope my gasket gets here so i can see how thick it is. ordered it from CMW should be here any minute now. i don't think they offer different colors or thicknesses. 
and to pull the pump out and clean it up I'm pretty sure i need the cover off. i assume by the pump you mean its components, both discs and the worm spindle.  then i can replace the nut , blow it out , make sure all is clear and put back together.
since i don't have a drain in the case where will i make sure that passage blows to, in the filter housing?
Kill em all, let God sort em out. 
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ace.cafe

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Reply #36 on: September 25, 2014, 10:29:42 pm
i don't have two forward drain plugs. i have two total.
 i still haven't taken of the timing cover off to do all that blowing thru the holes.
 i got a little intimidated with all the warnings of the shims and gasket thicknesses. my gasket is very very thin and looks like ultra black. i was going to do more reading on this and hope my gasket gets here so i can see how thick it is. ordered it from CMW should be here any minute now. i don't think they offer different colors or thicknesses. 
and to pull the pump out and clean it up I'm pretty sure i need the cover off. i assume by the pump you mean its components, both discs and the worm spindle.  then i can replace the nut , blow it out , make sure all is clear and put back together.
since i don't have a drain in the case where will i make sure that passage blows to, in the filter housing?

The timing cover does not have to come off to access the oil pumps. Only to get to the spindle and worm nut will you have to take off the timing cover. Each oil pump has its own little oval shaped cover.
If you are worried about taking off the timing cover, then don't do it.

You don't have to worry at all about the filter housing or any other parts that have to do with the feed pump. You have oil at the crank, and that means your feed pump and your filter flow and all that feed stuff is okay.
Your issue seems to be with the return side. There's not much that can be wrong there, as long as the pump is working. Blow out the return side exit passages, and blow out all the external oil lines and clean out the banjo housings and banjo bolts real good, and make sure that the little oil hole above the drain plug is not getting covered when you screw in the drain plug. Then go ahead and start it up and give it a little bit of time like a couple of minutes, to see if oil is coming out the external oil line fitting. It will take a little bit of time, and it won't gush out, but you will get some flow.
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guss,guss

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Reply #37 on: September 25, 2014, 10:57:25 pm
so the pump is behind the disc, above the spindle. pull that out.
 sorry if i am asking stupid questions but i did read some technical notes and none of it tells all this.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #38 on: September 25, 2014, 11:21:36 pm
I am getting a little worried about this. There must be at least a minimal idea about the layout and function of the engine before attempting to take any of it apart.
Do you have the complete technical package of owner's manual, factory parts book, and service manual?

At this time, I have to advise that nothing else be taken apart until you get more informed about at least the simplest things regarding this engine.

Or, take it to a dealer. If you get in over your head, it can make things much worse than they might be now.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 11:24:35 pm by ace.cafe »
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GreenMachine

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Reply #39 on: September 25, 2014, 11:36:06 pm
I lost track of this one..Up to now, their doesn't seem to be a problem with oil circulation or the amount reaching the top or bottom...Might be a good time to button it up, top it off and see where sleeping dogs lie.... 8)
Oh Magoo you done it again


guss,guss

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Reply #40 on: September 25, 2014, 11:54:27 pm
OK, i got it now." i once was blonde but now i see"
 passages are clear. everybody is right. button it up.
 now I'm going to dig around , i thought i had ordered pump gaskets a long time ago. or wait till tomorrow and see if ups delivers, or go ahead and cut some out of that sheet gasket i have stashed.


that was  a silly question. that's the housing. 
thanks.
Kill em all, let God sort em out. 
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GreenMachine

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Reply #41 on: September 26, 2014, 02:11:24 pm
Blondie: Not at all..Ace is right re. having some of the manuals before digging any further...Besides you may not be having a problem at all...These machines have a knack to  make you think their's a problem when their isn't one...Fresh oil, new plug, adjustment here and there and they plod along just fine..If your're worried about the pumps, just go ahead and replace them but it seems like they are working as intended..GM
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guss,guss

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Reply #42 on: October 25, 2014, 11:48:51 pm
OK.
got the new pumps in. I'm happy.
 when i had the primary pump out i blew out the passages using a little section of fuel line on the tip of the blower and turned down the pressure. the back pump hole on the outside goes to the oil tank.i drained the tank and blew at the same time to get any crud out.  the hole on the inside goes to the filter housing.with the filter cap off the air comes out there. with the cap on and the quill bolt loose it blows out there.
 front passages i already checked. one goes to the scavenge drain plug and the other goes to the line up to the rockers.   
 now when i crack one of the rocker line bolts it makes a mess like it used to.
i feel better now.   :)
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ace.cafe

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Reply #43 on: October 25, 2014, 11:52:45 pm
Good job!
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