[singhg5]

In some REs the oil drain plug has damaged the engine case threads due to soft metal or over tightened. Has anyone tried this EZ oil drain valve which has a lever that can be turned to open it for oil changes ? It does not have to be unscrewed/screwed back every time oil is changed. It will be so much easier to drain hot oil and will be less messy.

There is one concern though - it will protrude out more than the stock drain plug. Another, it will not have magnet inside to attract fine metal particles. But RE has two or three magnets, so not having magnet in this drain may not hurt the engine.

http://www.oildrainvalve.net/

[jkrobin]

I'd be interested in hearing about any experiences with this, too.

Thanks for posting, singhg5.

[Arizoni]

The excessive protrusion is the main reason I wouldn't put it on my RE.

A good whack on that valve by a large rock or board would tear the valve off and rip out enough of the bottom of the sump that a full teardown and tig weld welding in a new piece of aluminum would be the only way of saving the engine.

[ROVERMAN]

Agree with Arizoni on that. Unlikely to happen, but if it does you are 3 ways screwed.
Roverman.

[High On Octane]

I refuse to use EZ plugs for one very simple reason.  Failure.  If that $5 valve fails you're going to lose all of your oil and seize your motor.  Put it this way.  Is it really worth trusting the blood of your beast to a cheap valve that saves you 60 seconds of time when you do an oil change?  It is just one more unnecessary piece that will cost you your motor if it fails.  No thank you.

Scottie J

[REpozer]

I put aviation gasket sealant ( from auto parts store) on my drain plugs. I feel better knowing the drains will seal without hercking on my spanner.

One of these days I will get around to drilling a hole in my 3 drain plugs to accept safety/ lock wire.

[Mr.Mazza]

I put aviation gasket sealant ( from auto parts store) on my drain plugs. I feel better knowing the drains will seal without hercking on my spanner.

One of these days I will get around to drilling a hole in my 3 drain plugs to accept safety/ lock wire.

Never thought of this...
I just tighten until washer is crushed, it forms a damned good seal for me!

[REpozer]

Never thought of this...
I just tighten until washer is crushed, it forms a damned good seal for me!

You are doing it the correct way. I ran out of new copper crush washers and was cheaping out .

[The Old Coot]

I've read of more that one Kawasaki KLR-650 having the oil plug ripped out by a rock off road, even with a skid plate, to think this is a great idea.

Funny thing I've noticed about the RE and the KLR is both seem to have the same weaknesses. The case on the KLR is prone to being striped like the RE because it's not the best ALU pored. 

[Desi Bike]

I've had a expanding rubber plug in mine for almost three years now. Haven't done enough off roading to rip it out.

[Mr.Mazza]

You are doing it the correct way. I ran out of new copper crush washers and was cheaping out .

Copper washers you can get two uses out of them, use the uncrushed side.
Ive done this once, with all washerz and everything for an oil change!
Now I do it at work, washers and o rings galour.

[Ducati Scotty]

The valve mentioned originally can be sealed shut with a simple snap ring.  Toyota and Subaru have approved them as OEM replacements.  They can't be that bad, but they do hang down a bit.

I had a lower profile type on my old Honda Civic.  It worked very well and had a screw on cap as a backup. With the Enfield, I wouldn't want to give up the magnet, so I'll keep the stock one.

I advocate hand tightening things like spark plug as and dam rain bolts that go into aluminum.  The torque value is usually not that critical, and you won't always feel when it starts to strip with a torque wrench like you would with an ordinary wrench.

Scott

[barenekd]

If you just have a standard copper washer, heat it up to red hot and dunk it in water. This will anneal the copper and make it soft again so it seals easily.
Bare

[suitcasejefferson]

I wouldn't recommend it, for all the reasons listed above. If you already have damaged oil plug threads, the only right way to repair them IMO is a complete engine teardown, to avoid metal shavings getting inside the engine.

I have never used a torque wrench on oil drain plugs. I prefer to do it by feel. Of course, not everyone has a good sense of feel for things like that. I've been doing it all my life, but I'm sure I had to develop it to begin with.

Safety wire is a good idea. I have never raced motorcycles, other than dirt bikes, but I have done a lot of drag racing in cars, and always safety wired the oil drain plug. NHRA requires it.

I have also used sealant on oil drain plugs, usually Permatex #2. The biggest issue is getting all the oil off the threads in the engine. Also only put it on the plug, not on the internal threads in the engine, or the plug will push it up into the engine where it can plug something up.

I have also had a couple of old bikes with stripped threads in the oil drain hole. Rather than trying to retap the threads or screw in a bigger plug, which could have gotten metal into the engine, I used rubber expansion plugs. There was enough thread left to hold them in place when the compression nut was tightened. Wouldn't recommend it on a nice bike.

[tresser4K]

If you strip it install a reducer bushing.  the brass fitting that goes into a hole and has a smaller threaded hole in the center. Then get a smaller bolt for the plug. It will just take a lot longer to drain your oil.