[FastDoc]

Seems to be coming from the bottom of the cases. Unclear where it satrted. I cleaned the bottom of the engine and tightened the oil drain plugs and it seems clean and dry, but it's only been a day.

Where can I order the crush gasket for the drain plug from? I have 2,300 miles on it and I'll be due for my second oil change soon.

[barenekd]

Aircraft Spruce and Specialty

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=crush+washers&x=0&y=0
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[singhg5]

Advance Auto Parts and Autozone also carry oil drain plug gaskets of different sizes and different materials such as copper or fiber or rubber.

RE oil drain plug washer size is 14 mm ID.

[FastDoc]

Thanks!

[Arizoni]

The oil drain plug torque requirement is 15 ft/lb.  Don't tighten it more than that or it will strip out the threads in the aluminum.

As a side note, after 11 oil changes over 3 1/2 years, my original oil plug seal is still working fine.
Same can be said for the O-rings on the pump screen cover and the oil filter cover.
  No leaks at all. 

The cast shelf below the transmission output sprocket is still collecting chain oil and making a mess just like it did on day one. 
I assume this was a designed in feature but I'm not sure what the intent was.

[dickim]

Mine was tight until it just had it's 1st service !!!!!   now keeping an eye on it until I can see if it was residue or the mechanic - seems to be around the drain-plug washer which on my 4WD has manged 300,000k and MANY changes and only on 3rd washer!

[cstorckiii]

Mine was in the same place, from over tightening the drain plug. I ended up having to replace the case threads with an insert.

[Bulletman]

Mine was in the same place, from over tightening the drain plug. I ended up having to replace the case threads with an insert.

+1.  Had the same issue.. It was a blessing having a " Helicoil "

[Craig McClure]

Some years ago I adopted this technique for Drain plug bolts & crankcase pan bolts: When I dump the oil & tilt the bike to make sure I've gotten it all out, I let it stand open overnight to let any residual drip out.  I then thoroughly clean the threads with alcohol. After it dries, I replace my drain plug & washer using silicon form a gasket goo in the threads, which I allow time to cure before refilling. This makes an oil tight seal that lasts to the next oil change, even with the super slippery Mobil 1 I use.  My 2010 G5 Deluxe is completely oil tight (& Bullet proof) except for the occasional drop from my rear routed crankcase breather tube. All the pliable dry silicon peels right off when I move the plug.

[FastDoc]

The cast shelf below the transmission output sprocket is still collecting chain oil and making a mess just like it did on day one. 

I have identified this as the source of my 'leak' as well.

Funny though. The oil on the bottom looks like regular oil, not like Chain Wax but the heat must transform it into a liquid, which oozes down off that shelf, and capillary action takes it to the lowest point on the sump, the drain plug.

I am careful to not overlube, and wipe off the excess, but I guess it is what it is. Oh well, not a factor.

[suitcasejefferson]

Some years ago I adopted this technique for Drain plug bolts & crankcase pan bolts: When I dump the oil & tilt the bike to make sure I've gotten it all out, I let it stand open overnight to let any residual drip out.  I then thoroughly clean the threads with alcohol. After it dries, I replace my drain plug & washer using silicon form a gasket goo in the threads, which I allow time to cure before refilling. This makes an oil tight seal that lasts to the next oil change, even with the super slippery Mobil 1 I use.  My 2010 G5 Deluxe is completely oil tight (& Bullet proof) except for the occasional drop from my rear routed crankcase breather tube. All the pliable dry silicon peels right off when I move the plug.

I have done this too. I have also used Permatex #2 for thread sealant. Carb cleaner will remove it, but I never found any need to remove it. Just add a little more. I've also used it on coolant drain plugs.  The main thing is to NOT over tighten the plug. Having been an auto mechanic for 35 years (now retired) I have developed a pretty good feel for torque, and I don't use a torque wrench on drain plugs. I use a short box end wrench, and just snug them up. If you are worried about them coming loose, you can drill and safety wire them. I don't even recommend using a torque wrench on bolts like this. Most torque wrenches are not sensitive enough for the extremely small amount of torque required. And for some reason, shops over tighten everything. If you've had you bike in for service recently, check the chain tension. Dealers like to tighten them so much the wheel won't even turn.

[mattsz]

And for some reason, shops over tighten everything. If you've had you bike in for service recently, check the chain tension. Dealers like to tighten them so much the wheel won't even turn.

What is with that?  My first service, the "official" Royal Enfield dealer I brought it to adjusted my chain's tension - bike on the center stand, he pulled the wheel back by hand, then used a long screwdriver as a pry bar to lever it back even further.  He never once looked at the chain tension, just yarned on it all he could and called it good...

[Arizoni]

It's crap like that which makes me do all of my own wrenching on my bike and cars.

What's really sad is these people who have been doing repairs wrong for years won't change.  They will even give you an argument if you tell them the right way to do something.  It usually starts off, "I've been working on these bikes from before you was born........" 

[decker]

" It usually starts off, "I've been working on these bikes from before you was born........"  ) doesn't work at my age.

[barenekd]

It usually starts off, "I've been working on these bikes from before you was born........"

I guess they never did it right! Not unusual! I don't think I'd take the bike back there!
I had the tires changed on one of my Fireblades at Chaparral. They did the same thing. I never went back there for service.
Bare