[geoffbaker]

Reason I asked is that I set out the other day to make an air filter as I couldn't see that there was that much to it.  Mine will be buried in the side case so doesn't need to look that nice, as long as it is well made and functional  I've been pondering different filter materials and so far have come up with a double layer of Scotch Brite pads which fit the round cap i plan to use.  Between this I would sandwich some gauze pads with an oil saturation.  The thing is, I don't have 40 years of mechanical engineering experience to fall back on, so my confidence level isn't that high, but seeing yours gives me hope.
LJ

My next project is to build a new air filter. I've got pics posted of my diesel so I won't repost here, but it has the ugliest generator air filter ever devised, and I want to change it. I think I'll have somebody make a sweptback ss pipe and connect either to a homemade filter or a stock K&N cone... plus I'm going to play with vapor injection somewhere in there.

If you're going to hide it in the side case, LJ, can't you find a stock that would fit in it?

[LJRead]

Goeff,  The K & N DU-0100 is an exact replacement but would take nearly two months to get here and cost quite a bit for both filter and shipment, if done expeditiously.

But beyond that, I'm not sure K & N is all it's cracked up to be in that it is very unrestrictive and not entirely efficient in the filtering part.  If you hold a K& N up to the light you see air spaces through it (they tell me).  If I hold a piece of foam or my two Scotch Bright pads up I see little light, yet air flow is virtually unrestricted.  I was just standing at the sink in my kitchen and happened to see the pads setting on the window and held them up - one pad and you see the light coming through, two you d Easy to wash out too.  Only really need it for very occasional fine dust as the air is remarkably clear here. But for now I'm using the OEM filter.

[oldsalt]

Reason I asked is that I set out the other day to make an air filter as I couldn't see that there was that much to it.  Mine will be buried in the side case so doesn't need to look that nice, as long as it is well made and functional  I've been pondering different filter materials and so far have come up with a double layer of Scotch Brite pads which fit the round cap i plan to use.  Between this I would sandwich some gauze pads with an oil saturation.  The thing is, I don't have 40 years of mechanical engineering experience to fall back on, so my confidence level isn't that high, but seeing yours gives me hope.

Your engine really looks nice. 

I'll bet that engine really has a high pitched whine when wound up that high.

LJ

 
I like the "chuff-chuff-chuff" sound emitted from the filter when the throttle is opened up.  Motorcycles are suppose to make noises.  I never really wind up the motor, the megaphone muffler and induction noise is satisfying even at medium revs.  The attached picture is of the package that the filter media came in.  It is 3/8" thick.  If there was enough there to make another decent sized filter I'd send it to you, but, alas, there is not much left.  Stuff is made by Uni Filter.  The package originally contained a 12" X 24" piece.  I would suppose they are still inexistance.  Don't use Scotch Brite.  It has a coating of abrasive on the fibers.  There is some stuff that looks like Scotch Brite but does not have the abrasive.  But it would be best to use material specificly produced for engine air filtration.       

[oldsalt]

geoffbaker
Come on!  I want to see a pic of the ugliest generator air filter ever devised.  Couldn't be any worst than some of my stuff.  A diesel engine is suppose to look 'businesslike".   Can you describe how an RE diesel sounds?

[LJRead]

Thanks for your warning about the Scotch Brite pads - I hadn't noticed the abrasives.  Yes Unifilter is still kicking and I saw that they had the foam in sheets like you said.  In looking at the measurements of their stock filters, there is one that would work, but it is a ring with about half inch side walls instead of the inch in the OEM filter, but I think it is for a Holly carb, but would probably work. It is only 2 inches deep instead of three, but with the reduced thickness, I should think it would filter well enough. The foam they seem to use in a prefilter and not in their normal air filters., or else they wrap their normal filters in it as a prefilter on their off road filter systems.  Maybe best would be the normal Holly ring filter wrapped in a layer of foam as a prefilter.  I think there is hardly any resistance at all in the foam.

This air filter business seems more like art than science.  Maybe what is needed is a air stream gauge that would put some figures to the filters.  It could also tell you when your filter is getting clogged. 

[Jerry]

My log skidder has an indicator for a clogged air filter.  It is just a float that is raised up by the intake vacuum when the resistance through the air filter increases.  It may not be too difficult to add  a home made rig between the air filter and the carb.  If there is any sand or dust on your island I, being the conservative guy that I am, would leave the filtration system stock and adjust the carb, especially as it seems you don't really need the added performance that a free flowing system provides.

Just my $.02.

Jerry

[LJRead]

Hi Jerry,

I probably will continue with the OEM but have been having trouble with smoking at idle so am thinking that at that time it might be better to have a little more air.  I imagine that race car engineers must have figured some way to measure air flow, but your system would have merit.  The air is really clear here most of the time.  We can even see the Milky Way as it was designed to be at night.

Regards,

LJ

[baird4444]

Larry-
     Are you over thinking this??   I'm guessing you see the white smoke at start up but do you see it after you've ridden a bit and the park and let it idle??  If not then it is not an issue.       and if so...   how much time do we really spend at idle??
                 - Mike