[upintheair]

During the installation of the magnets, I found that one of them would jump out of the bolt head and rub on the caliper unit.  The other two remained in position.  I switched the magnets between bolt heads with the same result.  Having been following this excellent thread on the installation, I readied myself for the removal of the caliper unit.  Having a bit of excess time, I grabbed my digital caliper and measured the three magnets that I didn't install.  I found a variance of .003 inch in length between them.  I pulled the magnets out of the wheel, measured them, and found the same variance.  I then put the shortest magnets in place, and everything worked as advertised.  Having the magnets all the same length made setting a constant pickup clearance easier.

[gashousegorilla]

  HA !    Pretty interesting.  Great find.   Any issue with the longer magnates getting a bit too close to the brake , and being drawn out ?  That is what concerned me a bit.  But I have to say, they are amazingly strong magnates.... I guess in a year of riding on it? I haven't lost one yet.

[gremlin]

Digital Odometer on a Royal Enfield... Heresy.

agreed.

[upintheair]

ghg
I spun the wheel slowly in both directions with no movement of the shorter magnets being perceived.  The longer ones were always pulling into the caliper unit.  Just because of the posts about interference between the headlight connections and the speedometer cable, I removed the speedometer cable completely, and used a 3/8 inch vacuum system cap to cover the drive output at the front wheel.  That will keep debris out, and gives me two spare speedometer cables.  That is, the one removed and the one that came in the box of extra parts.

[bluesdaddy2]

Digital Odometer on a Royal Enfield... Heresy.

 
Digital on something from the 20th century borders on heresy, I have a 1938 HD that I wouldn't dream of altering in such a manor.  On a bike built in the 21st century, even something that is meant to be "retro", I don't have a problem with.  Kind of goes along with the EFI and electric start upgrades.  As long as it doesn't take away from the look.  I must say the new speedo with built in tach, 2 trip meters, a clock and an accurate speed readout is a welcome upgrade for me.

[upintheair]

Being the local heretic, I mounted one of the Koo units in my 2015 B5, with 300 miles on it.  After a couple of false starts, it finally worked completely as advertised.  My first unit was partially installed when I realized that it was a speedometer only, in the wrong box.  NField Gear made that right immediately.  Thanks guys!  The next unit was installed and all parameters set when, as I got on it to ride, the Speedo screen was blank.  After conversations with Koo, it was sent back, found to be defective, and replaced immediately.  Thanks to Sarah and the crew at Koso.  Without GHG's information, it would have been impossible to get things to work.  Thanks to him! Some things learned:
1.  Magnet direction is critical
2.  I ended up taking .020 inch off of the caliper backing plate to clear the magnets, even after using the "short" magnets
3.  I removed the Speedo cable and it gave more room behind the headlight
4.  When picking up the power from the ignition switch, be sure to check at the connector, my wires were switched from one side of the connector to the other, red is from the battery and red/white is power through the switch.
5.  I left the MIL and fuel warning lights alone, and terminated the Speedo instrument light, as it is not required.
6.  The "sensor point setting" (instruction 4-4) I set to 3, as I used 3 magnets for the Speedo, this is different from the piston number setting which is next in the instructions.
7.  When all else fails, follow the instructions and GHG's sage advice.

[Carlsberg Wordsworth]

Well, I was hoping to get past the last speedo record of a recorded 3616 mile but I don't think I'm going to make it at 3346

Recently, I've noticed the dial face bouncing slightly (here we go I thought) and today leaving work the needle moves up to 20mph and then stays there before deciding to move further up and then finally resting when stopped.

Rats. Now torn between same again (146297), Mr H black face variation (92546)or go all in on the Koso.

Bike's not even 3 years old yet lol.

*edit*

added current miles

[GSS]

GHG,
Wiring question as I want to do it right the first time........i.e. strip and solder as I don't like using the crimp connectors!

Positive red - red ignition switch
Switched positive brown - red/white ignition switch
RPM dark brown - green wire from RH case cover
Neutral purple - light brown (-) old speedo harness
High beam yellow - blue (+) old speedo harness

Did you connect orange left and blue right separately to the respective turn signal wires, or did you get a common signal to just one of the blue or orange wires from the common black/green (+) in the old speedo harness?

Finally, any thoughts on using the resistance settings on the fuel level function to trigger some sort of low fuel warning?  The check engine light is easy enough to wire to the gray wire on the Koso warning lamp......and this could free up the little hole for a nice ammeter.  Thanks.

GSS

[gashousegorilla]

   Pretty darn sure I would have had to grab separate connections for the Indicators.... But gimme a little time and I'll pull my headlight tomorrow and confirm all that for you  GSS. 

  I do not think the stock fuel sensor will work with the gauge.  Not a concern for me, as you know I don't have the stock tank. I just use the trip meter as a fuel gauge.  I believe the stock fuel "sensor"  is just a float switch and not a variable resister.... just on or off.   Normally open, and when the fuel level drops, closes and brings the light on.  But you can check if that is the case, by hooking an Ohm meter up to it and sliding the float up and down.  I think I also remember another member checking into that ?   And it was a no go.  But double check that anyway.  And yes, the gray wire should work fine for the mil light.

 

[Arizoni]

As for soldering all of the wiring connectors to the multi-strand wires, it is not recommended.  A good crimped connection will give fewer problems over time.

The reason for this is, vehicle wiring, be it a automobile or a motorcycle is subjected to a lot of vibration. (Especially if it is on a big single cylinder machine like a Royal Enfield.)

Copper is a material that "work hardens".  That is, if it is bent, it gets harder.  The more often it is bent or subjected to stress, the harder it gets.

Hard metals are brittle and break easily.

What does this have to do with soldering vs crimping?

One of the reasons wiring in vibrating areas is multi-strand is to help it survive vibration.
As the wire changes its position while it vibrates different areas of the wire want to move at a different amount than other areas of the wire in the same location.
Picture a straight length of multi-strand wire.  All of it is one length.  Now, looking closely at the end of the wire, picture the same wire, bent into an arc. 
The length of each strand of wire remains the same but the wires closest to the inside of the bent arc will begin to extend from the end of the wiring bundle because the distance around smaller arc length is less.
The wires towards the outside of the arc will try to sink below the end because the distance around the larger arc is greater.

If the wire bundle is crimped inside a connector where each strand is somewhat free to move, it will move and the stresses will remain low.

If the wire is soldered, all of the strands will be attached to one another by the solder so their lengths cant move.  This will create a large amount of stress right where the solder starts.

Another thing that happens if the wire is soldered is, the solder will stop somewhere abruptly.
The thicker, solder coated area of the wire will resist bending much more-so than if there was no solder present.

This leads to the unsoldered area vibrating freely back and forth up to the point where the solder starts.  At that point, it can no longer bend easily.

That creates a stress riser at this location which concentrates the bending stresses exactly at that point.

With the stiffer soldered area refusing to bend and the flexible area bending back and forth the meeting place work hardens much faster and coupled with the high stresses caused by the stress riser the wire will break.

The bottom line is, don't solder wiring joints on vibrating machines.
There's a good reason crimp on connectors are used.

[kodai]

az U MAY B RITE butin all my elect---trailers/hvy equip---solderded is better--and I b fighting equip for 20 yrs

[wildbill]

well I donno about dis!-it either could B RITE OR could B WONG! 

[GSS]

GHG,
Thanks! No need to pull your headlight.....it is easy enough to try the indicator wires both ways myself . I didn't think the fuel gauge would work but wanted to delve into the inner working of your innovative brain in case I was missing something

Arizoni,
I should have clarified......this comes with end to side crimp on connectors that slice and cut through the original wire.....this always partially cuts through the original wire filaments and weakens the wire.  I never use this type of connector as this will eventually lead to failure.  There are a couple of spots where I will be tapping to the side of a wire.....this is where I gently expose a 2-3 mm length of the original wire, wrap a turn of the side wire and use a dab of solder and heat shrink tubing to ensure a high quality connection.  The regular cylindrical end to end crimp connectors work great where you can use them.  No controversy here

Thanks!

GSS

[ROVERMAN]

Bang on money Arizoni! I rarely use solder joints on modern car wiring for all the reasons you mentioned. For some strange reason solder joints also attract more corrosive elements like road salt, and quietly corrode, even when heat shrunk well. There are some excellent heat shrink butt connectors on the market now, they are my go to.
Roverman.

[gashousegorilla]

GHG,
Thanks! No need to pull your headlight.....it is easy enough to try the indicator wires both ways myself . I didn't think the fuel gauge would work but wanted to delve into the inner working of your innovative brain in case I was missing something


GSS

    D'oh !..... now ya tell me.  Ohoooooooo thats alright    While I'm in here, lets see......

  Blue wire from the gauge to the right (+) wire at the blinker.... On my bike it is black wire with a green stripe.

  Orange wire from the gauge to the left (+) wire at the blinker..... On my bike it is a black wire with a white stripe.

  The grounds for the blinkers.... solid black.... get tied into the existing solid black wire from the bikes harness.   At the point where your stock blinker grounds are hooked up.




  And lets see ?.........  You would be dead on correct with this GSS.   This is exactly how I wired mine.


"Positive red - red ignition switch
Switched positive brown - red/white ignition switch
RPM dark brown - green wire from RH case cover
Neutral purple - light brown (-) old speedo harness
High beam yellow - blue (+) old speedo harness "


   And btw, I wouldn't over think and sweat the small stuff with the soldering vs crimping . In THIS case, I think solder may be a better job. Although I used crimp on solder-less terminals, because the ones they give you ARE shit.   Also...the wires in the gauge harness are very fine. And....You are going to wind up with plenty of slack in that harness from the gauge.  So much so, that you will likely have to strip back that harness and shorten it some.   Vibration and exposure to the elements are not so much an issue in this case I believe.  My main concern would be GOOD connections at those very fine signal wires....   Quality terminals VS.  Solder and shrink tube.  Either will do the job.